Radiator recommendation? - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 34 Old 08-02-2020, 08:33 PM Thread Starter
Jeffncs
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Radiator recommendation?

I changed my water pump and installed a 195 thermostat into my 4.2l CJ7... she continued to run very hot. I pulled and flushed the radiator to find lots of large, flaky rust coming from the top of the radiator..... I thought about getting it flushed professionally, but am leaning towards a replacement.

Before dropping in a new rad, I’m going to install an inline radiator screen to capture more rust flakes before entering the rad. I’m also going to run one of those rad flushes for a few hours and then drain, flush, flush, flush.

I’m tired of messing with things and am planning on replacing the radiator after all that is done and the filter is in place. I’m leaning towards a $250 unit from O’reilly Auto Parts that’ll come with a lifetime warranty. Before I throw money at their rad, do you have a suggestion for an alternate that’s in the same price range or only slightly more? The O’reilly unit has plastics tanks and aluminum core...

Suggestions for an alternate rad?
Anything else I should check before throwing more money at the cooling system?

Thanks to all in advance!


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post #2 of 34 Old 08-02-2020, 09:36 PM
whollsee
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A tad pricier but copper/brass. Avoid a plastic tank.

offset cap...

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/s...jeep/model/cj7

centre cap...

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/s...jeep/model/cj7

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post #3 of 34 Old 08-02-2020, 09:40 PM
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If you have a brass/copper radiator I suggest getting it recored at your local rad shop. Cheaper than a new one and you will keep a local business going. I have a 70 year old rad in my Willys.

Avoid aluminium/plastic radiators. I am sure they will work fine for some years but they are costly and tricky to repair. The brass ones are more expensive but maintainable.

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post #4 of 34 Old 08-03-2020, 06:05 AM
bob4703
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I have and recommend the Summit center cap radiator. If my old one had been repairable I would have had it repaired. Take it to a shop and get it professionally cleaned and repaired. A reputable shop will tell you if it is better to replace than repair.

The rust flakes/scale you are seeing have clogged the tubes in the radiator. You need to get as much of the scale as possible out of the cooling system no matter whether you repair or replace your radiator.

Please give us more info about the inline filter.

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post #5 of 34 Old 08-03-2020, 07:07 AM
Jafo220
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeffncs View Post
I changed my water pump and installed a 195 thermostat into my 4.2l CJ7... she continued to run very hot. I pulled and flushed the radiator to find lots of large, flaky rust coming from the top of the radiator..... I thought about getting it flushed professionally, but am leaning towards a replacement.

Before dropping in a new rad, I’m going to install an inline radiator screen to capture more rust flakes before entering the rad. I’m also going to run one of those rad flushes for a few hours and then drain, flush, flush, flush.

I’m tired of messing with things and am planning on replacing the radiator after all that is done and the filter is in place. I’m leaning towards a $250 unit from O’reilly Auto Parts that’ll come with a lifetime warranty. Before I throw money at their rad, do you have a suggestion for an alternate that’s in the same price range or only slightly more? The O’reilly unit has plastics tanks and aluminum core...

Suggestions for an alternate rad?
Anything else I should check before throwing more money at the cooling system?

Thanks to all in advance!
I went with an aluminum radiator. Works good, but, if it fails, no repair on trail. So I will be going back to the original brass at some point. They are more expensive. But if you maintain your cooling system, they should last.

As far as your in stream screen to catch rust. I don't know how you have that designed, but wouldn't that be risking plugging the cooling system?
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post #6 of 34 Old 08-03-2020, 12:36 PM Thread Starter
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I called my local rad shop and will give him a shot at clearing the blocked tubes. The inline filter has a clear glass window to see the filter condition. This is the one I ordered to alleviate those exact concerns...
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post #7 of 34 Old 08-03-2020, 12:39 PM Thread Starter
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Here’s that pic of the inline filter...
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post #8 of 34 Old 08-03-2020, 03:55 PM
Jafo220
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Here’s that pic of the inline filter...
Interesting. Learn something new everyday.

Repairing the original is not a bad way to go. I still have my original, but most radiator shops around me have closed down. Mine will need a new core replacement. I can buy a core, but my soldering skills may not be up to par to install it. So I will have to find someone to do it for me.😁
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post #9 of 34 Old 08-04-2020, 06:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jafo220 View Post
Interesting. Learn something new everyday.

Repairing the original is not a bad way to go. I still have my original, but most radiator shops around me have closed down. Mine will need a new core replacement. I can buy a core, but my soldering skills may not be up to par to install it. So I will have to find someone to do it for me.😁
I know a fellow who is a forklift mechanic and I asked him who his company used. Heavy equipment, forklifts, big trucks, etc. still have traditional radiators.

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post #10 of 34 Old 08-04-2020, 10:54 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks to all for the advice...

I just arrived home from dropping my radiator off at a local shop for repair. They’re going to remove the top tank and clear out the tubes manually. They’ll also pressure test it going into the core for integrity. In fact, he said it would probably be tested three times while they have it!

Assuming no surprises, he said it would function as new when I get it back... thanks again to all for the advice and guidance!!
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post #11 of 34 Old 08-04-2020, 03:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bob4703 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jafo220 View Post
Interesting. Learn something new everyday.

Repairing the original is not a bad way to go. I still have my original, but most radiator shops around me have closed down. Mine will need a new core replacement. I can buy a core, but my soldering skills may not be up to par to install it. So I will have to find someone to do it for me.😁
I know a fellow who is a forklift mechanic and I asked him who his company used. Heavy equipment, forklifts, big trucks, etc. still have traditional radiators.
I'll keep that in mind. We have a lift truck mechanic here at work. I'll have to ask him and see who they use. Great info.
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post #12 of 34 Old 08-05-2020, 09:31 PM
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You can use one of these to back flush the engine (whole system) When I do it, I open the radiator drain too.

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...%20flush%20kit

Mix your antifreeze 50/50 BEFORE you pour it in---it will ALWAYS be correct!

I always add "water pump lubricant" to mine, looks like you can bundle the whole works cheaply at this link

https://www.amazon.com/Prestone-Supe.../dp/B07GQ5XC8M

I never have rust--I think it gets started by using plain water (maybe improperly mixed coolant) in the cooling system.

I have an Advance Auto lifetime radiator from 2000 $183 all brass---I have a binder full of lifetime receipts (other info for "Mr. Jeep" too)---some are originals---some are copies of "fading/ thermal receipts---oldest is 1989 for my alternator.

Just for my '77, they include: 3 sets of drum brake shoes/ water pump/ ignition module/ 3 mechanical fuel pumps/ 258 headers/ radiator/ OEM type heater fan and core/ secondary heater core-fan-motor (backup heat) / distributor/ engine mounts/ master cylinder/ all 4 "U" joints/ all 4 shocks/ steering stabilizer/ harmonic balancer/ starter/ alternator----maybe I forgot something? And quite a few tools

All kept safe in my book. Whenever I have to swap out something, I insure I keep the receipt or they give me another one also stating "lifetime warranty".

I pretty much always have no problem.

Only on one occasion was I "tested" by an employee. I simply called the manager over and a few customers, I asked the feller to check my pulse!

About a year ago, I had a heart attack---I darn near voided my warranties!

Below is a few pages in my book

-----JEEPFELLER
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post #13 of 34 Old 08-06-2020, 08:41 AM
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A couple of late questions:
Have you verified the overheating issue with an IR gun?
Shroud?
Proper fan and in working condition?
Just a couple of additional questions on traditional overheating causes.

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post #14 of 34 Old 08-06-2020, 12:47 PM Thread Starter
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Great questions....

I should have verified the temps with an IR fun, but didn’t. However, I’m all but positive that my rad is clogged. I’ll add a pic of the first flush through it upon buying the Jeep. It’s nasty...better now, but I’m still pulling rust chunks out of the rad.

If nothing else, I’ll k ow my rad is clean and fully functional.
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post #15 of 34 Old 08-07-2020, 02:09 AM
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That is nasty soup, could be it had no fresh coolant for a long time. The core/freeze plugs, thermostat housing and water pump impeller are all at risk from rust. Maybe you could get a look under the manifolds for any rust staining or dribbling from the plugs. Photo is with the manifolds removed on one that started having a mystery coolant leak.
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1981 J20 258ci - Gladys
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