Quickly overheating and dumping fluid - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 17 Old 01-06-2020, 01:00 PM Thread Starter
willie52
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Quickly overheating and dumping fluid

My 258 is overheating quickly (within 5 minutes) and then will start to dump coolant out of the heater hoses at the firewall and also into the passenger side floor. The heater hoses are tightly clamped but the pressure seems to be too much. I just recently got filled the system up with coolant after sitting empty for a few months. Maybe an air bubble? Haven't touched the thermostat so not sure if that can just get stuck over time. No noise from the water pump and everything ran fine when I took the tub/radiator off a few months back.

Any help is appreciated before I start breaking my back replacing a heater core.

Thanks


Last edited by willie52; 01-06-2020 at 06:42 PM. Reason: More Info
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post #2 of 17 Old 01-06-2020, 01:23 PM
Spieg8
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By overheating do you mean the engine gets hot? You can bypass the heater core by linking the heater hoses together to see if that helps.
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post #3 of 17 Old 01-06-2020, 01:47 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Spieg8 View Post
By overheating do you mean the engine gets hot? You can bypass the heater core by linking the heater hoses together to see if that helps.
Overheating as in hot yes.. temp gauge jumps up to 210 and then the fluid starts leaking. I was going to bypass the heater first and see if I can find out for sure thats the issue.

Thanks!
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post #4 of 17 Old 01-06-2020, 04:20 PM
pedal2themetai
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is the thermostat in properly?? If the hose clamps are tight at the core then yes the core is bad. but the quick overheating has me thinking the thermostat is stuck closed? it should come out the cap/overflow instead of the core so the core might be shot too but the quick over heat sounds like the T stat.
good luck
tim
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post #5 of 17 Old 01-06-2020, 04:26 PM
shadoow
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you don't need the heater in service to maintain engine coolant temperature. Once issue w/them is they get leaks so you'd be loosing coolant. Leakage from them oftentimes ends up on the passenger side floor. What's the coolant level in the radiator? Any signs of coolant leakage anywhere? Have you recently drained & refilled the coolant system? (could have air trapped in the block yet), Is your water pump making any noises? When the engine gets hot are both the top and bottom rad hoses hot? Check your oil level. If it's high you probably have a blown head gasket.


We just need a little more info to help you figure out what's going on.
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post #6 of 17 Old 01-06-2020, 06:26 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by pedal2themetai View Post
is the thermostat in properly?? If the hose clamps are tight at the core then yes the core is bad. but the quick overheating has me thinking the thermostat is stuck closed? it should come out the cap/overflow instead of the core so the core might be shot too but the quick over heat sounds like the T stat.
good luck
tim
I haven't touched the thermostat but that was my initial thought. Could it just randomly get stuck? Its one of the reasons I could see the pressure building up and creating the leak in the heater.
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post #7 of 17 Old 01-06-2020, 06:33 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by shadoow View Post
you don't need the heater in service to maintain engine coolant temperature. Once issue w/them is they get leaks so you'd be loosing coolant. Leakage from them oftentimes ends up on the passenger side floor. What's the coolant level in the radiator? Any signs of coolant leakage anywhere? Have you recently drained & refilled the coolant system? (could have air trapped in the block yet), Is your water pump making any noises? When the engine gets hot are both the top and bottom rad hoses hot? Check your oil level. If it's high you probably have a blown head gasket.


We just need a little more info to help you figure out what's going on.
Coolant level is good because I just filled it. That leads me to believe there may be air in the system so ill be burping tomorrow. Water pump sounds good. Could a water pump lead to issues in the heater?
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post #8 of 17 Old 01-06-2020, 06:51 PM
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Stuck thermostat is a common problem and would be worth replacing if suspect. However there must be more going on as well... an overheating engine should blow steam out the radiator cap well before it leaks anywhere else. Check your hoses and clamps (hoses/clamps, radiator cap and thermostat are all pretty cheap and easy to replace so I'd star there before jumping to the heater core which is more expensive and difficult to replace). If all else checks out okay then the heater core is likely shot.
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post #9 of 17 Old 01-06-2020, 07:54 PM
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Your radiator cap should be venting water at around 14psi. The hoses, clamps and heater matrix can withstand far more than 14 psi.

A temperature of 210 is not unusual. It is within spec. the sensor is mounted on the back of the block. I bought a $10 infra red thermommeter to check such things, gauges can be inaccurate. My Cherokee boiled over on Saturday according to the gauge, went off the end. I removed the radiator cap but no geyser of steam, just moving hot green coolant.

The heater feed comes from the water pump after the thermostat. It is not an air bubble inside the block.

A blocked thermostat is possible, as is a collapsed bottom hose (if no spring inside, they can soften and close up). But what I think you are seeing is a leaky heater matrix and/or hoses. As suggested you could try replacing the $5 thermostat and burping the system but that leak is not due to a stuck thermostat.
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post #10 of 17 Old 01-07-2020, 12:44 AM
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Unless you have a bad t-stat..................it's a blown head gasket.................

Easy to check the t-stat.....pull it off and toss it into a bowl of boiling water. If it does not open....it's bad. If it does? Blown head gasket.

Check your oil level to make sure you don't have water (dip stick will have what looks like what grease on it)

You can also get an idea of what the issue is by pulling the radiator cap and watching the water.
If the t-stat is not open, the water (looking down where the radiator cap is) just sits there. It might burp a few times.....but there will be no steam. Once it opens, plenty of steam...and water is rushing by.

But my money is on a blown head gasket
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post #11 of 17 Old 01-07-2020, 08:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willie52 View Post
I haven't touched the thermostat but that was my initial thought. Could it just randomly get stuck? Its one of the reasons I could see the pressure building up and creating the leak in the heater.
Rapid overheating is caused by something preventing coolant flow, i.e. thermostat. I would start there. I put in a safety stat when I did mine, which when they fail, they stay in the open position. Standard thermostats will stick closed.

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post #12 of 17 Old 01-07-2020, 12:16 PM
Spieg8
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Never had a blown head gasket leak fluid on the floor board...
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post #13 of 17 Old 01-07-2020, 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Spieg8 View Post
Never had a blown head gasket leak fluid on the floor board...
Unless the pressure blew the heater core or the coolant is wicking from hose connections. I'm still betting on the stuck closed thermostat.

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post #14 of 17 Old 01-07-2020, 07:59 PM
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Quote:
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Never had a blown head gasket leak fluid on the floor board...
I had an L134 leak oil and water on my floorboards as the crankcase breather pipe ended near the firewall, it ran down and through a hole to form a grey milky and hot puddle.

Rapid heating after 5 minutes, that is how long it should take to warm up.

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post #15 of 17 Old 01-08-2020, 11:08 AM
John Strenk
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210 is not bad. It could just be a leaky heater that leaks more when it gets hot and expands.

If the thermostat is stuck, it it should still take time to warm up unless something else is heating the water. Like a leak in the head gasket to the cylinder.

Why was the cooling system sitting empty for so long?


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