Proportioning Valve Relocation - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 26 Old 03-14-2020, 09:33 PM Thread Starter
drwoodberry
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Proportioning Valve Relocation

I was wondering if anyone has relocated their proportioning valve from the frame rail to a bracket suspended off the brake booster/master cylinder. My exhaust current runs uncomfortably close to the wilwood that was installed and I am not a huge fan of that. If anyone has done this, do they have some pictures of the brake line routing with the proportioning valve mounted up at the master cylinder? Did you have to bend custom lines?

I see a lot of kits offered for the CJ's that include master/booster/valve already assembled but I have not had luck on finding some of the details on routing the brake lines from this new location.

Thank you in advance.

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post #2 of 26 Old 03-14-2020, 09:57 PM
John Strenk
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I think YJ's do this.


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post #3 of 26 Old 03-16-2020, 06:01 PM
verreaul
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I bought one of those ebay power brake booster/master cylinder/proportioning valves last year.
The proportioning valve mounts under the master cylinder. I was able to bend the existing 2 front brake lines to reach the new valve location. I made a new rear brake line from the proportioning valve to the T on the rear axle. It was a straight forward and simple install.
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post #4 of 26 Old 03-16-2020, 07:36 PM
Rtracy2001
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I'm not really happy with how the bends turned out. The lines needed replacing anyway.
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post #5 of 26 Old 03-17-2020, 09:34 AM Thread Starter
drwoodberry
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Thank you for providing these for me. For the front lines...you just re-bent the original front ones? Good to know those will reach. I was thinking about trying to get some pre-formed NON-ABS YJ lines to see if they would work as well.
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post #6 of 26 Old 03-17-2020, 07:50 PM
Rtracy2001
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drwoodberry View Post
Thank you for providing these for me. For the front lines...you just re-bent the original front ones? Good to know those will reach. I was thinking about trying to get some pre-formed NON-ABS YJ lines to see if they would work as well.
I replaced the lines. The originals were quite brittle and a little short. If yours are anything close to original, they are best replaced. Nicopp is a good material, easy to bend, corrosion resistant, inexpensive, and DOT approved.

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post #7 of 26 Old 03-18-2020, 06:08 AM
jeepdaddy2000
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Blank brake lines can be had from any FLAPS.

You can customize the length with a double flaring tool. A cheap bending tool will work for your bends and coils.

You can mount your proportioning valve anywhere as long as the lines are routed into/out of the valve properly.



Have/can you install a heat shield? most times this a simple piece of tin mounted between the exhaust and whatever you are trying to shield. Might be easier than moving the valve.

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post #8 of 26 Old 03-18-2020, 10:41 AM Thread Starter
drwoodberry
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@jeepdaddy2000 - I may be able to get a heat shield in there, but it would be on the exhaust for sure and maybe do more damage than good by conducting heat. I am blaming the bozo who installed the new valve and not even mounting it...its just floating there. This is what I get from a guy who ends up stealing about $300 worth of parts from me and about $1200 in labor costs. I am not trying to resolve his mistakes....easier since I have a garage now.

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post #9 of 26 Old 03-18-2020, 10:41 AM Thread Starter
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@Rtracy2001 - All my lines were new from a pre-bent kit that some bozo local to me butchered. Thanks again for the info.
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post #10 of 26 Old 03-18-2020, 07:04 PM
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What is "FLAPS"?
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post #11 of 26 Old 03-19-2020, 06:42 AM
PottsyCJ5
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Thats a much more convenient location for the proportion valve. I have a new one from Carolina customs sitting in my bench i have been trying to figure out a mounting solution for. The one on there now seems permanently attached to the mounting bracket via a small notch type seat (not sure how else to describe it). The new one has a mounting location on the bottom that comes from the side. Now Iím considering relocating up to the master cylinder.


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post #12 of 26 Old 03-19-2020, 07:21 AM
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Sorry, I needed an extra post count to PM someone.
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post #13 of 26 Old 03-19-2020, 09:47 AM Thread Starter
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post #14 of 26 Old 03-19-2020, 09:52 AM Thread Starter
drwoodberry
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PottsyCJ5 View Post
Thats a much more convenient location for the proportion valve. I have a new one from Carolina customs sitting in my bench i have been trying to figure out a mounting solution for. The one on there now seems permanently attached to the mounting bracket via a small notch type seat (not sure how else to describe it). The new one has a mounting location on the bottom that comes from the side. Now Iím considering relocating up to the master cylinder.


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I will surely be moving mine after I get the new transmission in and redo the exhaust.
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post #15 of 26 Old 03-19-2020, 10:38 AM
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It has been covered in several threads before. I moved mine about 6 years ago. The factory valve was about 1/32" away from the header on the motor swap in my Jeep. The valve had been cooked. I had to cut the valve off the frame with a saw because the exhaust was welded to the header collector and it was not removable.

I disconnected the rear brake line and used a small drill press vice to straighten the tubing. You have to go slow and do a little at a time but squeezing it with a little vice is one of the best ways to straighten tubing with a bend in it. You have to squeeze it a little and then rotate the vice and squeeze it a little more. It does a wonderful job. I then used a coupler and extended the line using copper nickel brake line. I moved that rear brake line to the top of the frame rail so it would be clear of the exhaust. I replaced the driver's front brake line with new copper nickel brake line because it was easy. I was able to make the passenger's front side work by reshaping it with the vice and a bender. I used stainless steel spiral armor and the new copper nickel brake line. In my case I have front and rear disk brakes and I installed an adjustable proportioning valve. Unless you are after a completely accurate restoration, mounting the valve at the master cylinder it is a much better choice. General Motors mounted many of their valves up near the master cylinder.

Since that time I have purchased a Titan Tools 51535 3/16 in. double flaring tool. This is a marvelous tool and I would have paid $100.00 to have it when I did the work on my Jeep. It works so well and it is so compact. It makes flaring lines that are installed in the vehicle so much easier.

If you have to install any new brake line, use copper nickel brake line. As far as I can tell, it is superior in every way. It bends and forms so much easier than steel and stainless, it is not suppose to rust like steel and it flares so much easier. Just so EVERYONE understands. Copper nickel brake line is NOT copper line. It is a special alloy that is approved for brake line use. Regular copper is much too soft and can fail at brake line pressures.
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