Project CJ7Years - Page 3 - JeepForum.com
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post #31 of 67 Old 01-18-2021, 06:17 AM Thread Starter
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Kind of hard to do on an engine with no distributor though.

I always used a socket extension when we did it, worked perfectly.


Do you happen to remember what brake switch you used for the brake lights and torque converter lockup? I use your build thread all the time to reference things.


1985 Jeep CJ7

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post #32 of 67 Old 01-21-2021, 07:11 PM Thread Starter
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Major milestone, this rolling chassis has a body. Iím still in love with this original color. No issues, everything cleared. If anything, I may not need that 1Ē body lift. The atlas has plenty of breathing room. Starting to look like a Jeep, or a JOOP if you have one of these old tubs.
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post #33 of 67 Old 01-21-2021, 07:13 PM Thread Starter
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Trying to keep some momentum going. Small victories are helping me.



With the body on, it gives me time to look at clearance of things in the engine bay. I could not move the engine back anymore, Iím barely touching the firewall.



This give me lots of room up front though, about 4 inches between the fan and accessory drive. The shroud work is all done and Iím working on restoring the emergency brake pedal assembly, brake pedal assembly, and figuring out the mounting of the remote reservoir and power steering hoses. I need to get the exhaust done because I see some areas where I need the pipe in there to determine clearance. Coming along though. I had a great conversation with an old friend during the work so it flew by.
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post #34 of 67 Old 01-30-2021, 03:24 PM Thread Starter
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Sometimes I get a little reminder to take my time as I SLOWLY rebuild this Jeep. I am in the process of putting the tub back together while waiting on some parts to come in. When I started looking at the original fresh air box and heater, I knew they needed to be taken a part and gone through. Everything in this Jeep is original Ď85 so itís a bit rough. I started with the fresh air box. Drilled out all the rivets, and completely tore down everything to sand, treat the rust, prime and paint. I will get the heater going next but I canít help but appreciate the all-mechanical linkage of this Jeep. No buttons anywhere.
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post #35 of 67 Old 01-30-2021, 03:27 PM Thread Starter
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Heater box hotness on the tail of the fresh air duct. Same process, tear into it and repair and replace anything that needs it. Spoiler, it all needed work. I removed everything, treated the rust thatís worse than surface rust with ospho, sand, prime and then paint. I had to remake all the foam seals so I ordered a few sheets of foam from McMaster Carr. The old heather core was leaking (I had no idea) so I found a new one. All the rubber for the flaps I reconditioned, it was in pretty good shape. I buttoned everything up again after sealing the box. I also did the blazer blower motor to increase the air and opened the firewall up with a 3.5Ē hole saw. Itís all in and works beautifully. I think this is the last piece of interior work before finishing up the engine bay.
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post #36 of 67 Old 02-02-2021, 07:18 AM Thread Starter
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Here is that stainless steel mesh screen update, it finally came in the mail. Time will tell if it works out.
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post #37 of 67 Old 02-02-2021, 07:22 AM Thread Starter
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Working on mounting coolers before getting fenders 100% bolted on. I was told to run the biggest cooler I could fit for the 4L70, so i have been focusing on that. Looked at remote mount etc, but ultimately decided on a less complicated setup.

I took the time to fab a mount out of aluminum and spent the time to make sure it’s done right. Honestly, you will never see it but I like taking the time on things like this.

The other cooler I got mounted was for the power steering system. PSC recommends it when you are running a hydro assist ram so I wanted to run a heat sink style cooler for space reasons. I initially got the 16” but no way it would fit and not hit something. 10” it is.

I got the fenders on to start looking for clearance issues with the inner fenders and as of right now nothing is an issue. I still have the original overflow talk and windshield washer tank, no idea if they will fit with the LS ECU I am going to mount on the drivers side firewall.
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post #38 of 67 Old 02-09-2021, 08:29 PM Thread Starter
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Got the steering column rebuilt, and saved the OG Jeep CJ steering wheel. With this piece installed I am now able to get the steering shaft installed. Itís tight but with an LS swap thatís to be expected. I also tightened up every single damn brake fitting and got the brakes bled. Feels good. I will make a post next time about steering and the rabbit hole I went down with crossover and high steer, with hydraulic assist. I learned a huge amount and maybe it helps someone. Probably not, sometimes I feel working on older Jeeps is losing (or has lost) itís luster. Everything ends up being custom.
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post #39 of 67 Old 02-09-2021, 08:38 PM Thread Starter
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The last week or so I have been buttoning up a few things regarding brakes and steering systems.

Steering has been the major slow down due to me having to order a few different combinations for the high pressure line fittings to and from the assist cylinder. While doing this I was looking at the lock to lock steering of my current setup knowing I have not ground down any bump stops on those Reid knuckles yet. Most forums online said to expect about 8Ē of steering movement from a dana 60. This didnít seem right for my specific case because I was barely at 4Ē measuring on my tie rod. This had led me to do a deep dive on researching steering systems including ratio of steering arm to pitman arm rations, and how those relate to turning radius. The NWF arms I have do have Ackerman angle (a whole other topic) in them, so I have been researching how to get the most out of my steering set up I can. I do not want this thing to turn like a school bus.


Skip to the Brakes section if you do not want to go down the rabbit hole: The steering arm length is measured from center of kingpin (in my case) to center of drag link. I am using NWF high steer arms and this measurement is 7.5.Ē You would ideally want a pitman arm as close to this as possible to maintain a 1:1 ratio and get the most from your steering. I spoke to many vendors and one said there was a ďstudyĒ done by crawling through junk yards and measuring many trucks, jeeps, etc. to see what manufacturers were designing them with. All the pitman arm to steering arm rations came back between .90 and 1. In my case I am inside this ratio so I am calling it good and moving on, my ratio would be 93%. If your ratio is lower like the 6.5Ē pitman arm on my jeep set up now you likely wonít be able to get the wheels to turn to the fullest extent. This was the first issue causing my steering box to hit the internal stops before even getting close to the cast stops on the knuckles.


Using a 1:1 ratio of steering arm to pitman arm, I would need a pitman arm thatís 7.5Ē from center of shaft to shaft. I came up empty for something that would fit this in my internet searching so I am going with a FSJ arm with a 7Ē measurement. Not perfect but its within 90% of that 7.5Ē steering arm length. I need one with a bit of drop (1Ē Ė 1.5Ē) to keep the tie rod and drag link close to parallel, this will prevent any potential bump steer. This also is another topic that is pretty debated with leaf springs, I just figured I would do my best to negate it before any funkiness happens while I am driving it.


The other related issue is the ram assist cylinder, I have an 8Ē stoke so it would theoretically be able to out turn my steering box (in its current state) without an internal limiter. Hydraulics are very powerful and the amount of pressure they exert will have to go somewhere, I donít want to break something because I didnít take the time to design a system properly.
Moving the tie rod down from the arms mounted on the knuckle top, to the REID knuckles I was suddenly seeing the 8Ē (or close) of movement. Then it dawned on me that the further you move the tie rod mounting points form the center of the king pin the larger the leverage and length of movement. Now it made total sense why I was seeing roughly half of the movement I was supposed to. The high steer arm mounting points are 4.5Ē away from the kingpin center.

Now I bet you wish you had not read this far.

I started grinding down each knuckle steering stop watching the binding situation on either side and ended up with 9Ē of tie rod movement down on the knuckles, and 4 11/16Ē movement up on the arms. Side note, I am an engineer and technical, so I love being exact.

I called PSC and made the exchange with the 8Ē to a 6Ē thatís internally limited to 4 11/16Ē. I want as much steering as possible, but I also want to use the cast in bump stops to limit breaking stuff.

I know know way more that I ever thought would be necessary about steering geometry, and I didnít even go into what I learned about Ackerman geometry.

I just want a beer.

Brakes have been hooked up and bled. I chose a DOT 5.1 fluid with the understanding its compatible with a DOT 3 and 4 fluid system, just with higher boiling points. Sounds good to me, I still have a headache from the steering.
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post #40 of 67 Old 03-26-2021, 09:06 PM Thread Starter
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Wrapping up today with a filled coolant system. For those who are doing an LS swap in a CJ, my part numbers for the upper and lower radiator hose are belolw. There was a lot of trial and error with getting the correct hoses that made the bends, I did trim a bit off each one to make it work. I used the standard LS heater core cables, remember that one is a bigger diameter than the other.



Upper - Gates 22043
Lower - 22437


Heater core hose #1 - Gates 28480
Heater core hose #2 - Gates 28471
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post #41 of 67 Old 04-30-2021, 05:14 PM Thread Starter
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Im back again, a few updates will be coming.



I really had to look at the lokar shifters installation before making the decision on how to install the atlas shifter linkage. Itís a universal set up so there are a lot of ways to do it. I ended up using most of what I originally bought, I did upgrade to their HD linkage with heims. I wish i would have done that to begin with, so much better. This really improved the linkage engagement ďfeelĒ. I also heated up and bent the handles to fit around the floor. My goal was to not cut anything outside the floor opening and I was successful. I also had to use the tuffy stereo console to look at clearance to the cup holders when I am shifted all the way back on both the transmission and transfer case. Everything worked for me this time.
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post #42 of 67 Old 04-30-2021, 05:17 PM Thread Starter
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I was not really looking forward to this part of the build. I started with a new painless Jeep CJ harness to make my life as easy as possible. Itís nice, and was worth the spend. The major work was converting the OEM harness and connectors to a set of speedhut gauges. These are their Jeep CJ series. You can see there are a few more than stock Jeeps came with. I like the look, and all the options, the hookup was easy. Iím working on the engine bay portion of the wiring now, which is also a challenge because I have an LS engine and many of the wires arenít needed. I didnít want to loop huge amounts of wire up, so I will be removing them from the harness. Nothing has been cleaned up because I need to start the Jeep and make sure all these gauges work.
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post #43 of 67 Old 04-30-2021, 05:18 PM
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That's impressive!

Hoss

I used to be a people person, until people ruined it...
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post #44 of 67 Old 04-30-2021, 05:21 PM Thread Starter
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Bumper and winch plate are on. I looked all over for a stubby type bumper, but I enjoyed the look of the original bumper built and put on by the P.O. It turns out the angle had some history behind it and i really wanted to use it. I also think its kind of cool that the foundry (speculating here) has the state on it. The word "Colorado" is in the steel. Maybe by incorporating this on the jeep it will somehow get me back there form Texas... here's to hoping. As i put the bumper on, im starting to realize just how far this Jeep project has come, and how wide it is.
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post #45 of 67 Old 04-30-2021, 05:23 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoonHoss View Post
That's impressive!

Hoss

Thanks very much, just trying to keep up with the quality work on the builds on here.
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