Prebent brake lines or Poly Armour? -
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post #1 of 6 Old 04-07-2020, 08:00 PM Thread Starter
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Prebent brake lines or Poly Armour?

Hello Fellas,

Getting my 86 CJ7 ready for summer and decided to tackle the crap brakes once and for all.
Rears would lock up real hard occasionally and old Jeep repair book said Proportion valve is usually to blame for that. Bled the heck out of the brakes and still have spongy pedal and heavy rear brakes
Went to replace the prop. valve and all the flare nuts are rounded

Cut all the lines and pulled the prop valve off, and now I'm looking at a full brake overhaul.

I see Inline Tube has a complete pre bent package for my year and model/options for $109. How difficult is it to replace the pre bent lines? I see some of them go through the frame. looks like a real pain.

Saw another thread about the Poly armour and how its cheap and easy to bend so thats attractive, but I won't really know where it needs to be bent unless I can get the original lines out in one piece to compare to.

Open to suggestions, thank you.

05 WK Limited, HEMI 5.7, QD II, OME HD, 255/75/17 Mud terrains
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post #2 of 6 Old 04-07-2020, 11:19 PM
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1978 CJ5 
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Poly armor is basically a plastic coated metal. It will eventually rust.

I used the prebent stainless. 100% satisfied with it, would highly recommend it. Only thing I would recommend to go with it is a set of quality line wrenches. Stainless is a lot stronger than steel, so it takes a little heavier hand to get them tight enough that they do not leak. I almost rounded one nut with basic Craftsman wrenches.

Yes, a few do go thru the frame, but I do not believe they'd be hard to do. I did mine when the body was off - I was swapping in a TDK frame, so all new fuel and brake lines. I made my own fuel lines, but with the brakes I cheated.
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1978 CJ5 5.0HO/T177/D300, '86 D30/D44 WT axles, 'glass body, 31x10.5 BFG A/T, TDK galv'd frame - DD and weekend toy

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post #3 of 6 Old 04-07-2020, 11:25 PM
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It's easy to bend and flare and resists corrosion better than steel.
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post #4 of 6 Old 04-08-2020, 05:12 AM
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Central NY
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Absolutely NiCopp, if you are going to bend them yourself. It's very easy to work, seals up easily, is very rust resistant but pricey. NiCopp has been used on some European cars since the seventies. The pre-bent stainless is nice but it is much harder than steel. Flaring of the ends also work-hardens it and some have had some difficulties getting it to seal. Good quality wrenches would be a necessity for the extra torque as Cutlass327 has suggested.
If original, yours have lasted 34 years and I would think that replacing them with steel should last longer than 34 years since the Jeep will probably get better care than it did up until today.
Did that help? :-)
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post #5 of 6 Old 04-08-2020, 05:08 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you for the replies. As much as I'd like to expand my tools, I think I'm going to go with the pre bent lines from Inline Tube. They are steel, not stainless however. The Jeep as been in Texas its entire life so it hasnt really got any bad rust.

The second job I picked up for my photo and Jeep hobby just let me go unfortunately. So after the brakes I'll only be taking on cosmetic issues with the Jeep, like painting the interior of the tub!

I'm expecting a lot of finangling to get the brake lines installed without removing many nearby parts. We'll see how it goes

05 WK Limited, HEMI 5.7, QD II, OME HD, 255/75/17 Mud terrains
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post #6 of 6 Old 04-18-2020, 01:20 PM
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I'm replacing the brake lines on my 83 CJ7. I'm using prebent stainless steel lines because of where I live. There is a special place in hell for the engineer that designed the brake line routing. In order to remove the front right brake line, so I could send it off in one piece to have custom tubes bent for my application, I had to pull the radiator, remove the steering shaft and remove the power steering hoses from the steering gear to get the old line off and the new one in.
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