Painting a galvanized frame - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 10 Old 04-28-2015, 09:45 AM Thread Starter
Koster
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Painting a galvanized frame

I was thinking of galvanizing a new TDK frame for my cj7 seeing as how I live in the "saltbelt" that is the midwest. The only problem with galvanizing is that it does not look that good on any jeep. I know that painting on galvanized steel will not work because it won't stick. I was wondering if anyone had any advice on how to paint a fresh galvanized frame the standard cheep chassis black??? and if you have how it turned out.

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post #2 of 10 Old 04-28-2015, 10:33 AM
Cutlass327
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When I did my galvanized TDK frame, I used the POR15 stuff - Marine Clean to wash, Metal Prep to prepare it, then the POR15 with Chassis Black. That was a few years ago, and it has held up great except for the area under the master cyl where it leaked brake fluid and took off the Chassis Black layer.

The Marine clean is just a really good degreaser, and the Metal Prep is a phosphoric acid which pits the metal just enough to give paint something to stick to. I was leary of putting acid on the galvanized metal, but I didn't leave it on any extra time than what the directinos said and it didn't eat thru anything. It just gave is a whitish finish.

I also used the Eastwood Products internal frame coating. It is like $25 a can, used 3 cans, and was serious overkill, but I live in NE Ohio where they use salt heavily... I figured I spent that much money on the frame, I want it to outlast my grandkids... my first born is only 2 months old, and I did this 4 years ago, so you know I am planning on it being around a long time!

Rick

1978 CJ5 5.0HO/T177/D300, '86 D30/D44 WT axles, 'glass body, 31x10.5 BFG A/T, TDK galv'd frame - DD and weekend toy


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post #3 of 10 Old 04-28-2015, 10:51 AM
Ken4444
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From the POR-15 technical information page:
"APPLICATION OF POR-15 TO NEW METAL

For proper adhesion to aluminum, galvanized metal, and smooth steel surfaces, prep with POR-15 METAL-READY Rust Remover/PrePrimer. Keep surface wet for 15 minutes, then rinse off with water and dry thoroughly. This process will leave a zinc phosphate coating on the metal and insure perfect adhesion."

"I give you a republic, if you can keep it." - Benjamin Franklin
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post #4 of 10 Old 04-28-2015, 01:02 PM Thread Starter
Koster
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Thanks for the advice!
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post #5 of 10 Old 04-28-2015, 01:13 PM
Jim1611
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I had my factory frame hot dipped galvanized and then painted it. Here's my build thread https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/ji.../index147.html post 2194 is a good start. There's some great info on the web about this too and I suggest you read it. Mine turned out very well the way I did it.


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post #6 of 10 Old 04-28-2015, 01:39 PM
texasdave
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In order to paint over galvanized you have to etch it first. Any automotive paint store should have it. In the mid and late 80' some GMC trucks vent covers had trouble with paint not holding and would flake off. I took my to the dealer 3 times until I found an old paint and body guy and he told me about the etching. Applied and painted problem solved.
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post #7 of 10 Old 04-28-2015, 01:42 PM
Always2L8
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^^^^ Like Jim1611 said.

Galvanize, epoxy primer, compatible top coat. This is definitely a belts and suspenders approach, which is just fine by me.

I'm going to be lazy and copy and paste a reply of mine from 2012 (with a little editing for brevity and to bring it up to date). Here's some more threads if you haven't seen them yet. https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/co...74/index2.html https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/ga...frame-1451727/

"Put me in for galvanizing. Nine years ago it cost $300/ton (their minimum cost) to galvanize the frame. Since they charged by the ton, I galvanized a bunch of small parts, like motor mounts, bump stops, spring plates, etc. (I forgot to include the skid plate, doh). I used a quick rinse of Phospho to etch. Epoxy primed it (PPG), then applied black chassis paint. I used an under coating wand from Eastwood to get inside the frame rails with epoxy primer. And just for good measure, applied Linseed oil to inside frame rails with the wand.

The good thing about the galvanizing is the cleaning and pickling processes they use to get the grease/rust that you may have missed, plus it gets the inside. If you go the galvanizing/topcoat route, it is best to specify "no quench" after the dipping. It seems the quenching water they use to cool the parts gets nasty and oily and is a pain to clean off for the painting."

Over 9 years old and haven't even scratched through the epoxy primer.

Good Luck
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post #8 of 10 Old 04-28-2015, 06:33 PM
80cj
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Yes, ospho works as a etching base.
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post #9 of 10 Old 04-28-2015, 06:55 PM
Jim1611
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Depending on how old the galvanizing job is determines the process of painting. I followed the directions on this link http://www.galvanizeit.org/specifica...-hdg-for-paint


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post #10 of 10 Old 05-02-2015, 03:11 PM
DutchJPR
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At my work we have a lot of parts -for wreckers and slide bed trucks- galvanized. If a customer wants a colour, we have it powdercoated after the galvanizing.
This works very well if done the right way! Never had any trouble with it.

Dutch builds: https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/dutch-build-1231816/
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