Painless wire harness question - Page 6 - JeepForum.com
 24Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #76 of 85 Old 05-14-2019, 03:53 AM
John Strenk
Moderator
 
John Strenk's Avatar
1976 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Shalersville Ohio
Posts: 18,783
Where I live, I like using these just to keep the salt spray from getting under the nut.



They are called internal tooth washers.

I'll also use dielectric grease on the grounds also.
There was another product someone posted on here that works better at keeping corrosion from forming around the ground but I can't recall it right now.



To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
John Strenk is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #77 of 85 Old 05-15-2019, 06:58 AM
TexasXJGuy1
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 15
Thumbs up TexasXJGuy1

Quote:
Originally Posted by MetalMountainGoat View Post
At this point, I would go through and ground all the wires that painless says are optional for steel tubs. This should make sure you have a good ground. I also bought the 40 dollar ground strap kit for mine and installed it before I even tested it. You might want to consider this as well.

Ground strap kit goes engine to frame, firewall to frame, dash to firewall. The ground straps guarantee that you have a good ground connection.
Great Advice!!! I like to Ground my Grounds and Star Washer my Star Washers. Say no to dim lights and slow wipers...
TexasXJGuy1 is offline  
post #78 of 85 Old 05-15-2019, 08:53 AM
DougE
Registered User
1983 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: New Braunfels
Posts: 637
If you want to add a male Packard 56 connector to the engine side bulkhead connector, there isn't a crimper that works due to the protrusions in the crimping section of the connector. Not my cure, but found this modification that works. You have to cut a groove in the crimping die with a cutoff disc.
John Strenk likes this.

1983 CJ7, 258I6, T4, Dana 300, 31x10.5x15 DuraTrac
DougE is offline  
 
post #79 of 85 Old 05-16-2019, 11:39 AM
BrutusBlue
Senior Member
1982 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Fort Worth
Posts: 667
You have to buy the correct crimper. Delphi makes different styles for the correct size connector. They are not cheap but well worth it...I bet I have $150-200 just in three different Delphi crimp pliers. I crimp the exact packard connector when I run all sorts of wires for light relays, fuel pump wires, etc. when I want to use the extra holes in the bulkhead connector.
BrutusBlue is offline  
post #80 of 85 Old 05-16-2019, 11:59 AM
BrutusBlue
Senior Member
1982 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Fort Worth
Posts: 667
You have to buy the correct crimper. Delphi makes different styles for the correct size connector. They are not cheap but well worth it...I bet I have $150-200 just in three different Delphi crimp pliers. I crimp the exact packard connector when I run all sorts of wires for light relays, fuel pump wires, etc. when I want to use the extra holes in the bulkhead connector.
BrutusBlue is offline  
post #81 of 85 Old 05-16-2019, 12:01 PM
John Strenk
Moderator
 
John Strenk's Avatar
1976 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Shalersville Ohio
Posts: 18,783
Ever notice they never crimp more than one wire in a terminal.
They would put a splice in the wire a few inches away rather than try to crimp two wires in each terminal.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
John Strenk is offline  
post #82 of 85 Old 05-16-2019, 02:31 PM
DougE
Registered User
1983 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: New Braunfels
Posts: 637
BrutusBlue - you have a part # and source?

1983 CJ7, 258I6, T4, Dana 300, 31x10.5x15 DuraTrac
DougE is offline  
post #83 of 85 Old 05-16-2019, 08:53 PM
BrutusBlue
Senior Member
1982 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Fort Worth
Posts: 667
Quote:
Originally Posted by DougE View Post
BrutusBlue - you have a part # and source?
Yes. Sorry for the double posts.

Sargent Open Barrel Crimp Tool (24-14 gauge)...different versions of the same tool are available...price varies from about $18 to $50. This one has the narrowest mouth and will effectively crimp almost any connector from relays, fuse block and packers connectors.

Delphi p/n 06285847 (56 series 20-10 gauge)...my favorite... has a bit wider mouth but has much better crimp leverage, with practice you can crimp any of the same connectors with this one that the one above will crimp only better.

Delphi p/n 12125080...for LS motor pin connectors.
BrutusBlue is offline  
post #84 of 85 Old 05-18-2019, 07:01 AM
CJDave78
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2019
Posts: 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by MetalMountainGoat View Post
At this point, I would go through and ground all the wires that painless says are optional for steel tubs. This should make sure you have a good ground. I also bought the 40 dollar ground strap kit for mine and installed it before I even tested it. You might want to consider this as well.

Ground strap kit goes engine to frame, firewall to frame, dash to firewall. The ground straps guarantee that you have a good ground connection.
Installed the ground strap kit. checked and installed every ground I could find. tried replacing the tail lights (one was badly rusted inside.) still acting funky.

Headlights off: everything functions normally
Running lights on: running light and fender light blink opposite of each other and the dash indicator blinks slowly.
Headlights on: either signal makes both tail lights flash like hazards, right side is brighter than left, reverse lights flash with tail lights. Can't find the source.

Also the tail lights that are on it have built in side lenses with a third bulb. The harness is wired for a separate rear side marker that I don't have. (I tried putting a bulb in those just to see if it needed that to function correctly, that's not it) Replacement lights I ordered are only two bulbs not three? did the PO stick the wrong tail lights on at some point or are there just no aftermarket 3 bulb ones?
CJDave78 is offline  
post #85 of 85 Old 05-18-2019, 03:16 PM
CJDave78
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2019
Posts: 22
All set. It turned out to be a conflict between the three bulb tail lights and the extra side marker. I put the new two bulb "original" tail lights on and stuck blubs in the side marker pigtails and it all works like it should. I ordered some of the separate side markers and just have to mount them to the tub when they get here. Electrical sorted. Thanks painless performance. I can't even imagine what a job doing all that by hand one circuit at a time would be.
CJDave78 is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the JeepForum.com forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid e-mail address for yourself.



Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Jeep Forums Replies Last Post
Chasing Gremlins Nereussailor Jeep CJ Forum 11 09-01-2018 05:41 AM
Replacement Pins for Instrument Cluster Wire Harness vinsanity TJ Wrangler Technical Forum 1 08-12-2018 01:52 AM
How to install an RB1 navigation unit in a 1997-2001 Jeep Cherokee Country Jeep XJ Cherokee Technical Forum 14 01-21-2018 04:43 PM
Factory fog lights in an '00 XJ that did not come with them Ralph77 XJ Cherokee Technical Forum 13 01-13-2018 01:39 AM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome