Oversized 3/8ths preformed fuel line - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 33 Old 07-18-2021, 08:47 PM Thread Starter
agear
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Oversized 3/8ths preformed fuel line

I'm wonderng if anyone knows of a place to get jeep cj7 258 preformed hard fuel line 3/8ths diameter


1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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post #2 of 33 Old 07-18-2021, 11:40 PM
BagusJeep
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I would talk to Inline Tube.

They have a variety of sizes of fuel line but I could not see the 3/8" pre bent line for a stock CJ7, only for one fitted with a SBC. Frankly I was amazed they stock it on the web page.

5/16" and 1/4" pre bent are listed and of course they have stock lengths of 3/8".

BagusJeep lives in Bali with far too many 4x4s:
1981 CJ7 258ci - Bagusjeep
1984 CJ7 258ci - Puthijeep
1981 J20 258ci - Gladys
1951 Willys CJ3A/MB/M38 - Little Willy
1995 Cherokee 4.0 - CHEROKEE
1980 Land Rover Series III 109" troop carrier - ROVER
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post #3 of 33 Old 07-20-2021, 01:18 PM Thread Starter
agear
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BagusJeep View Post
I would talk to Inline Tube.

They have a variety of sizes of fuel line but I could not see the 3/8" pre bent line for a stock CJ7, only for one fitted with a SBC. Frankly I was amazed they stock it on the web page.

5/16" and 1/4" pre bent are listed and of course they have stock lengths of 3/8".
I gotcha . Thank you very much

1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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post #4 of 33 Old 07-20-2021, 01:57 PM
StoneTower
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If you could get the old one out in one piece, you could make your own out of Nickle-Copper 3/8 brake line. Use the old one as a pattern to bend the new larger line. It bends very easily, is fuel safe and is very easy to flare. I put stainless steel rock guard coil over mine for more protection.

It is sometimes called NiCopp

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post #5 of 33 Old 07-20-2021, 08:04 PM
1984jeepjohn
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Why you want to go to the larger line? Fuel injection?
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post #6 of 33 Old 07-20-2021, 08:24 PM
BagusJeep
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CuNi, cupronickel or cunifer is what I know it as. Been around as brake line since the 1970s.

Second that idea, it is so easy to bend and flare and will outlast you and your rig, it is 88% copper. Stainless and galv are very hard and can give you a bit of a workout. You have fewer flaring tasks on a fuel line but on a brake line using a cheap wingnut tool, it makes flaring a lot easier and hence more reliable.

You can also at a pinch use pure copper, easily available as refrigerant tube. I used this in the engine bay of Bagusjeep and it is real soft, softer than cupronickel. This was an emergency situation, been there 11 years only.

BagusJeep lives in Bali with far too many 4x4s:
1981 CJ7 258ci - Bagusjeep
1984 CJ7 258ci - Puthijeep
1981 J20 258ci - Gladys
1951 Willys CJ3A/MB/M38 - Little Willy
1995 Cherokee 4.0 - CHEROKEE
1980 Land Rover Series III 109" troop carrier - ROVER
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post #7 of 33 Old 07-21-2021, 02:42 AM Thread Starter
agear
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1984jeepjohn View Post
Why you want to go to the larger line? Fuel injection?
Exactly, why do you ask ?

1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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post #8 of 33 Old 07-21-2021, 02:45 AM Thread Starter
agear
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StoneTower View Post
If you could get the old one out in one piece, you could make your own out of Nickle-Copper 3/8 brake line. Use the old one as a pattern to bend the new larger line. It bends very easily, is fuel safe and is very easy to flare. I put stainless steel rock guard coil over mine for more protection.

It is sometimes called NiCopp

Quote:
Originally Posted by BagusJeep View Post
CuNi, cupronickel or cunifer is what I know it as. Been around as brake line since the 1970s.

Second that idea, it is so easy to bend and flare and will outlast you and your rig, it is 88% copper. Stainless and galv are very hard and can give you a bit of a workout. You have fewer flaring tasks on a fuel line but on a brake line using a cheap wingnut tool, it makes flaring a lot easier and hence more reliable.

You can also at a pinch use pure copper, easily available as refrigerant tube. I used this in the engine bay of Bagusjeep and it is real soft, softer than cupronickel. This was an emergency situation, been there 11 years only.
Ty guys line bending isn't on my resume but I can get some help.

Update let me check the video

1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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post #9 of 33 Old 07-21-2021, 09:00 AM
1984jeepjohn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by agear View Post
Exactly, why do you ask ?
Iím looking at doing the Holley sniper and Iíve seen quite a few people who are still using the stock 5/16 lines with good results. But like you Iíve been debating the upgrade to 3/8 line. I donít want to if I donít have to. So im following this one close
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post #10 of 33 Old 07-21-2021, 09:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1984jeepjohn View Post
Iím looking at doing the Holley sniper and Iíve seen quite a few people who are still using the stock 5/16 lines with good results. But like you Iíve been debating the upgrade to 3/8 line. I donít want to if I donít have to. So im following this one close
Being an owner of a Sniper, here's the best advice I can give you: Follow the directions from Holley to a T.

If you install it with 5/16" fuel line and you end up having fuel delivery issues and you call Holley for support, the first thing they will tell you is to replace your fuel line with 3/8", and call back when you've done that.

I replaced my fuel line with 3/8" NiCopp, and it was a breeze...replace my brake lines at the same time to make things easier. I used their retrofit in-tank returnless pump so I didn't have to worry about a return line or the crappy regulator installed on the Sniper.
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post #11 of 33 Old 07-21-2021, 08:31 PM
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Holley's blanket statement on fuel system requirements are as follows:

Fuel System Requirements
The Sniper EFI system requires a high pressure fuel pump capable of operating at 60 psi with at least 50 gallon per hour of fuel flow (more fuel flow may be needed for higher horsepower engines). When selecting a pump, and lines, be sure each component is designed to perform at high pressure. Holley offers a variety of fuel pumps, hoses and accessories to complete your installation. For best results, Holley strongly recommends an in-tank pump. Installing the fuel pump in the tank results in quieter operation, less chance of cavitation and a reduction in pump temperature. If mounting the pump in the tank is not an option, install the pump as close as possible to the tank. Within 2-feet of sending unit is recommended. Once the fuel system is installed checking the fuel pressure on the inlet side of the Sniper EFI is recommended, fuel pressure needs to be between 55-65 PSI


I have a BBD and a 4150 and the same statement appears in both instruction manuals.

Holley, Summit and most others give a horsepower rating chart for recommended fuel line size.

Recommended Fuel Line Size
Engine Output Size (inches) Size (AN)
350 hp or less*** 5/16 in.*** -5
350-450 hp***** 3/8 in.*** -6
450-650 hp***** 1/2 in.*** -8
650-1,000 hp*** 5/8 in.*** -10


I have 5/16" feeding the BBD and 3/8" feeding the 4150


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post #12 of 33 Old 07-21-2021, 10:24 PM
BagusJeep
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If you delete the return, the quantity of flow drops and the pressure drop reduces. If you are putting a Sniper on a 258, extrapolating those power numbers would give you a tiny tube.

At the end of the day it is about flow, pressure and pressure drop, which are related.

BagusJeep lives in Bali with far too many 4x4s:
1981 CJ7 258ci - Bagusjeep
1984 CJ7 258ci - Puthijeep
1981 J20 258ci - Gladys
1951 Willys CJ3A/MB/M38 - Little Willy
1995 Cherokee 4.0 - CHEROKEE
1980 Land Rover Series III 109" troop carrier - ROVER
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post #13 of 33 Old 07-22-2021, 02:35 PM
StoneTower
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I agree with BagusJeep. We installed a Holley Sniper on my son's 1966 mustang. I was originally going to install a return fuel system. My son likes driving the car more than working on it. I enjoy working on vehicles as much or more than driving them if I am "improving them" rather than fixing something that has broken. Ultimately we decided to go with the in tank returnless system as it was quick and easy. There is no way that a 289 Ford needed a 3/8 line but that was what we installed because the instruction said to. A returnless system has to burn the fuel to use it. Everything else does not make it past the bypass regulator in the tank.

If I were to install a Sniper in a CJ7 with a 20 gallon plastic tank, I would do the normal in tank pump like so many of us have done for fuel injection and then install a Holley bypass regulator that I would mount on the frame next to the tank and then dump the excess fuel back into the tank. I really like only having one fuel line running up to the engine compartment.


Quote:
Originally Posted by BagusJeep View Post
If you delete the return, the quantity of flow drops and the pressure drop reduces. If you are putting a Sniper on a 258, extrapolating those power numbers would give you a tiny tube.

At the end of the day it is about flow, pressure and pressure drop, which are related.
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post #14 of 33 Old 07-22-2021, 05:14 PM
1984jeepjohn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjoffroad View Post
Holley's blanket statement on fuel system requirements are as follows:

Fuel System Requirements
The Sniper EFI system requires a high pressure fuel pump capable of operating at 60 psi with at least 50 gallon per hour of fuel flow (more fuel flow may be needed for higher horsepower engines). When selecting a pump, and lines, be sure each component is designed to perform at high pressure. Holley offers a variety of fuel pumps, hoses and accessories to complete your installation. For best results, Holley strongly recommends an in-tank pump. Installing the fuel pump in the tank results in quieter operation, less chance of cavitation and a reduction in pump temperature. If mounting the pump in the tank is not an option, install the pump as close as possible to the tank. Within 2-feet of sending unit is recommended. Once the fuel system is installed checking the fuel pressure on the inlet side of the Sniper EFI is recommended, fuel pressure needs to be between 55-65 PSI


I have a BBD and a 4150 and the same statement appears in both instruction manuals.

Holley, Summit and most others give a horsepower rating chart for recommended fuel line size.

Recommended Fuel Line Size
Engine Output Size (inches) Size (AN)
350 hp or less*** 5/16 in.*** -5
350-450 hp***** 3/8 in.*** -6
450-650 hp***** 1/2 in.*** -8
650-1,000 hp*** 5/8 in.*** -10


I have 5/16" feeding the BBD and 3/8" feeding the 4150
First off To the OP sorry if this has jacked the thred!!!! What FI set up were you going to go with?


SOOO how is the 5/16 line working on the BBD?
WHile like others have said I do like working on the jeep, but the less I have to change the better. Did you run the 3/8 return line that came in the kit? I'm thinking of using the NOVAK in tank pump for the CJ w/20 Gallon tank. (my sending unit sticks at a quarter, then randomly drops to empty, so thats just a bonus for me if the in tank pump fixes it).
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post #15 of 33 Old 07-22-2021, 09:04 PM
cjoffroad
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1984jeepjohn View Post
First off To the OP sorry if this has jacked the thred!!!! What FI set up were you going to go with?


SOOO how is the 5/16 line working on the BBD?
WHile like others have said I do like working on the jeep, but the less I have to change the better. Did you run the 3/8 return line that came in the kit? I'm thinking of using the NOVAK in tank pump for the CJ w/20 Gallon tank. (my sending unit sticks at a quarter, then randomly drops to empty, so thats just a bonus for me if the in tank pump fixes it).
I decided not to get the bbd kit and instead bought the bbd as a standalone and picked up the in-tank fuel pump/sending unit for the 15gal tank. I used the standard pre-bent steel fuel lines which are 5/16" supply and a 1/4" return if not mistaken. I didn't really need the return line since the in-tank fuel pump regulates itself (found that out later) but I'd already installed the return line and used it anyway. No problems so far since Oct '19
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