Offenhauser Intake with Hedman Headers - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 15 Old 03-28-2020, 04:26 PM Thread Starter
Roger83
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Offenhauser Intake with Hedman Headers

Came across a post earlier where a person was wondering if a Offenhauser intake would work with Hedman headers. Just so happens I'm preparing a reman 258 to put in my Jeep, a 83 CJ7, that had a Offenhauser intake on it when I purchased it. Since I was going with a reman engine I decided to get a set of the dual ceramic coated headers to put on the new engine and have the intake ceramic coated. When I read his concerns about them fitting together on the 258 I decided to go out and see if they would. You have to put the headers on first then the intake sets on two dowels and you have to use washers with the seven mounting bolts to pull the intake up. Doesn't seem like a very secure way of sealing the intake to the head but it is what it is. Hope that helps.

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post #2 of 15 Old 03-29-2020, 06:30 AM
Shawn Watson
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post #3 of 15 Old 03-29-2020, 07:51 AM
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Who did you send them out to for coating? I’m planning on sending my junk to Jet Hot in NC. My primary reason for wanting the coating is for heat dissipation. With the intake & exhaust so close together, it’s going to be hard to keep the intake cool. I am considering having both coated like you did. Did you have the insides coated as well?

I had a set of headers done by Jet Hot almost 20 years ago, and they turned out real nice, I was happy with the results.

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post #4 of 15 Old 03-29-2020, 10:56 AM
oldschool74cj5
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hello

it looks nice. but wanted to point out something i saw. i hope those arent the type of washers you are going to use. you need the very heavy ones that are stamped and shaped like a bowl. they are about 3/16 thick and the design allows a rocking action to help pull evenly on a uneven surfaces. with flat washers even if thick will give you all kinds of sealing issues.
second if that is a rebuilt engine it will run hot and could discolor the headers. just would hate to see a nice looking set of headers getting messed up. i would look at the header website and see what they recommend about first fire up. i would in the past have always used a old manifold or header for first run. then after a couple of runs i would put the header i will be using. its more work but kept better results in the long run.

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post #5 of 15 Old 03-29-2020, 01:54 PM Thread Starter
Roger83
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I'm in the Atlanta area and there's a guy here local that does ceramic coating and powder coating. I've used him on a couple other things and he does a really good job. I mean look at that intake, I don't know if he has jobs shipped in but I can ask when I hear from him, I've got a set of tubular control arms I'm having powder coated. I've used Jet Hot before last time was about twelve years ago, wasn't that happy with the finish and when I contacted them they told me if I wanted them to be more shinny I'd have to buff them out myself. But that was twelve years ago and for a while there they were one of a few that did ceramic coatings so who knows now. And yes, he does the inside as well. Good luck
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post #6 of 15 Old 03-29-2020, 01:58 PM Thread Starter
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No, I just put those on to hold it in place. I've actually ordered some thicker and wider stainless steel 3/8" washers to attach them with since that is all that's holding the intake on. I'm surprised they haven't got a better system to secure them with. But thanks for pointing that out. I probably should have mentioned it so anyone else thinking about installing one of these would know. Have a good one.
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post #7 of 15 Old 03-29-2020, 02:04 PM Thread Starter
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I'm sorry old school, I completely missed the part about the bowl shape washers. Makes more sense then flat because it isn't a flat surface where the ears on the headers and the ears on the intake come together. I was just planning on torquing the hell out of them. If you know where I can get the type washers you're talking about I appreciate getting the name of the place. I'll also check with Hedman and see what they say about start up on a nre engine with those on them. I appreciate you bringing that to my attention.
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post #8 of 15 Old 03-29-2020, 02:08 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Shawn, just because it's a Jeep doesn't mean it can't look nice!
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post #9 of 15 Old 03-29-2020, 07:53 PM
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post #10 of 15 Old 03-29-2020, 08:15 PM
oldschool74cj5
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roger83

no problem i just wanted to point it out so you wont have intake leak issues. i have seen many people when i was young trying to get manifolds to seal on the old inline engines. here is a link from quadratec that has omix ada ones.

https://www.quadratec.com/p/omix-ada...-jeep-vehicles

it shows a pic of both sides to give you a better idea. you will need at least 8 of them. they are a little pricey new but if you have a pick-a-part you can get them off a 4.0 engine. the top ones are alot easier to get to. so if you find a couple 4.0 in a junk yard i would take the upper ones.

on the header i didnt want to see you header possible get ruined to a first start running hot. i have seen regular steel header turn a good dark to cherry red from the engine breaking in at 2000-2500 rpm. i have also used a fan for blowing more air to the engine bay during break in.

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post #11 of 15 Old 03-30-2020, 05:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldschool74cj5 View Post
on the header i didnt want to see you header possible get ruined to a first start running hot. i have seen regular steel header turn a good dark to cherry red from the engine breaking in at 2000-2500 rpm. i have also used a fan for blowing more air to the engine bay during break in.

oldschool
Yeah especially if your timing is retarded. They’ll really glow and dull that coating. Get your timing good ASAP at startup.
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post #12 of 15 Old 03-30-2020, 06:52 AM
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Yeah especially if your timing is retarded. They’ll really glow and dull that coating. Get your timing good ASAP at startup.
Best way for that is to have the timing light hooked up, go straight to 2,500 rpm for break-in and just twist the distributor around to ~45* (make sure you have a reference mark on the balancer first) and then come back to your initial timing after your cam is broken in.


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post #13 of 15 Old 03-30-2020, 08:33 AM Thread Starter
Roger83
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Thanks guys, I appreciate your help and advice since this is the first rebuild on a Jeep I've fooled with. It gets addictive once you get started but with y'alls help I might just get thru it. I'll definitely check on the header bolts, thanks old school and the break in procedure to see if it's going to affect the headers. I'm sure I'll be back with more questions, this thing is a long ways from being done.
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post #14 of 15 Old 03-30-2020, 11:06 AM
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I can't tell from the picture but if the mounting flange for the exhaust and the intake are not the same height, you really need some of those offset washers.

They use to be quite common when the CJ was the only jeep in town.

This allows you to torque equally on the intake and exhaust
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post #15 of 15 Old 03-30-2020, 03:32 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks John, is the a cut away of the washer or are they stepped like that? I ordered a set of the cone shape washers today for the exhaust and intake.
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