OEM Clock Restoration and Install - Page 24 - JeepForum.com
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post #346 of 375 Old 01-24-2018, 09:42 PM
STJP
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Instead of drilling a hole, maybe use a heated wire/pin/rod of correct diameter and melt a hole through. The drill end of a drill bit??

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post #347 of 375 Old 01-24-2018, 09:46 PM
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Instead of drilling a hole, maybe use a heated wire/pin/rod of correct diameter and melt a hole through. The drill end of a drill bit??

STJP
That is an excellent idea! I wouldn't have considered that, but could easily work- will give it a try, Thanks!

Hoov

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post #348 of 375 Old 01-25-2018, 04:15 AM
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Why couldn't one use a piece of vacuum hose cut to length for the rubber grommet? I think I will try that on the clock that's in my dash now since the knob unscrews rather then the one that was repaired as it seems to be a press on fit knob.
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post #349 of 375 Old 01-25-2018, 10:04 AM
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When I redid the clock in my '56 GMC, I ended the up using a piece of black felt from a crafts store. Using an empty casing (22round?) As a punch, and centerpunched the middle

Just a thought /option, maybe even as an additional dust/moisture seal between the lense/grommet.

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post #350 of 375 Old 01-25-2018, 10:11 AM
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You could use something like this and maybe a leather punch for the center hole. You might have to punch the center hole first so that you have support while punching it.

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post #351 of 375 Old 01-28-2018, 11:45 AM
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I spent time yesterday trying to get my gauge issues put to rest. The clock is now complete. It looks fabulous, and seems to keep perfect time (24hr battery test). However, I remain completely dissatisfied with the tachometer with respect to resting needle position, and after testing in a side by side comparison yesterday, with accuracy. :thumbsdown:

Good news first: As I imagined, using a drill press to cut the grommet 'blanks' was far superior to hand cutting. I had to resharpen the borer twice with a small file, but the plugs came out perfectly round. However, the next issue was creating a centered hole for the shaft, and had to use a combination of the suggestions above to get the result I wanted. First, I tried to drill the cut plugs, but couldn't keep the bit centered to begin the hole. Then I tried the John's 'heated rod' suggestion, but the rubber cooled the glowing end quickly, and after four tries on the same plug had no luck. At that point, I tried pre-drilling the small diameter hole, then cutting the plug out using the borer, but achieving a plug that was perfectly centered with the smaller hole proved impossible. Perhaps some of you guys would have had success with that approach, but I obviously lack that skill-set. So, I ended up using the heated rod to 'start' the hole in a cut grommet plug, and that allowed me to keep the bit centered as I drilled it out. The plug got pretty hot in the process, but happy with the result.

Removing the adjustment knob from the shaft was relatively easy, just remember to use a pair of pliers to hold the shaft behind the knob, rather than exerting pressure on the small pressed-on gear on the opposite end. I found that out the hard way yesterday morning while testing that procedure on another clock. Took forever to find the gear when it shot out of the clock, and re-attaching the gear, spring and shaft tested my patience.

All this being said, I now have a grommet behind the adjustment knob on my refurbished clock. The only difference from OEM is that I did not attach/glue the grommet to the lens. Since the knob and lens face is effectively sealed by the shaft spring pressure, I'm perfectly happy with the grommet remaining against the knob when adjusting the clock. Seals nicely when released.

As I cut quite a few plugs, if anyone needs one, PM me and I'll happily send one your way. However, Keith's idea of using a vacuum line might be even easier, and look forward to seeing his result.

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The tachometer saga, however, continues. In retrospect, I removed my Crown tach much too quickly yesterday. I should have left it in place, but I was optimistic. Once removed, I connected the refurbed tach and turned the key to the 'on' position. The needle immediately smacked down to the resting pin on the face. I cranked the engine, and noticed that the needle was in the neighborhood of where it had always idled, but was not nearly as quick to respond to changes in rpms as the crown was. I then decided to rev the engine a few times, and the tach did not seem to display the same rpms as I'm used to seeing. Granted, I'm comparing this to a Crown tach, but I know what 3000 rpms sounds like.

Upon turning the system off, the tach needle jumped back to the 2000 rpm position. Maybe I misunderstood, but was expecting the resting position to reset to the 0 position after initial cranking. Perhaps some might consider me picky, but I expect gauges to rest at 0.

At that point, I reconnected the Crown tach along with the 'refurbished' tach, and did a series of side-by-side comparisons. Crown on the left, 'refurbed' on the right.

Key in the off position.
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Key in the ON position.
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Fast idle, choke engaged.
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Baseline idle.
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2000 rpms (as per Crown)
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And 3000 rpms.
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The disparity between the gauges at higher rpms is obvious, and have no faith in the refurbed model. But in the spirit of data proving, I will test the accuracy of the Crown gauge. Need to source a timing light with an rpm indicator, but have little doubt that the Crown is very close based on the tire size/rpm/ratio calculations from GrimJeeper. There is the chance that the tach was refurbed using 4-cyl or V8 electronics, which supports why the disparity in readings seem to increase dramatically at higher rpms, but confused as to why the refurbed tach shows higher readings at idle. And I absolutely hate that the needle will not rest in the zero position.

Just looking for a little feedback here, but am I expecting too much? Although successful with the replacing the grommet myself, I feel like I had to spend my time to do the things I paid to have done the first time. I looked back at my 'pre' work pics, and the clock I sent clearly had the grommet. And given that the cost associated with refurbishing the tach was in the neighborhood of $275 bucks (not including original purchase price), I feel my expectations are warranted. Feeling burned on this tach deal, fellas.

Hoov

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83 CJ8 Scrambler, 360, T176, EFI, in progress
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post #352 of 375 Old 01-28-2018, 12:26 PM Thread Starter
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I think your frustrations are justified, Hoov.

I'd confirm the RPMs are off with a timing light, then demand a refund, if so.

Matt


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post #353 of 375 Old 01-28-2018, 12:44 PM
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I think your frustrations are justified, Hoov.

I'd confirm the RPMs are off with a timing light, then demand a refund, if so.

Matt
Thanks, Matt. I think that's a solid approach and the direction I'll be taking. I suspect you're just as disappointed as I am on this.

Hoov

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post #354 of 375 Old 02-06-2018, 05:19 PM
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Got my quote back from ISI for my gauges. I wrote them back and declined to get anything done. Too high for me.
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post #355 of 375 Old 02-06-2018, 05:43 PM
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Got my quote back from ISI for my gauges. I wrote them back and declined to get anything done. Too high for me.
Yeah, I'll say. I have gotten new NOS gauges on eBay cheaper than that.

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post #356 of 375 Old 02-06-2018, 07:33 PM Thread Starter
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I will say I'm happy with my OEM clock refurb from ISA, but I wont recommend them for other gauges.

Matt.


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post #357 of 375 Old 02-06-2018, 08:45 PM
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Yeah, I'll say. I have gotten new NOS gauges on eBay cheaper than that.
I've been keeping my eye on ebay for them but they don't seem to show up when I'm looking.

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I will say I'm happy with my OEM clock refurb from ISA, but I wont recommend them for other gauges.

Matt.
I'm somewhat disappointed with the pricing on what I sent to them but did want to give it a try. I'll either clean up what I have, they do work, or I'll buy new Speedhut gauges.


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post #358 of 375 Old 02-07-2018, 12:36 AM
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Got my quote back from ISI for my gauges. I wrote them back and declined to get anything done. Too high for me.
Jim, that's not good. I was under the impression that the Speedo being 97.00 included the needle painting on the fuel and temp gauges. I see that they added additional charges for those gauges on your quote. I was told on the phone, 97.00 for the Speedo cluster and 67.00 for the oil and volts gauges.

That's a pretty big difference. I guess my quote will not be what they told me on the phone. 187.00 is quit a bit more than I was expecting. I guess I will wait and see what they say about mine.

Lance

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post #359 of 375 Old 09-20-2018, 08:38 AM
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Great Thread guys. I guess I'm too late to get into the "forum discount" but I'll take the time to read and digest this long thread before making any decisions on how to proceed. I recently picked up a 1985 CJ7 Laredo with the factory options such as clock and tach. Tach seems to work fine. Clock not so much. Missing the set arm. I finally to it out yesterday to open it up and see whats what, but after perusing this thread on my phone last night, I think I may just put it back together and use one of these companies mentioned to do a rebuild or quartz conversion. Now to go back and find the posting talking about the CJ mechanical vs quartz comparison. Pretty sure my '85 is the Quartz.

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post #360 of 375 Old 09-20-2018, 08:46 AM Thread Starter
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Great Thread guys. I guess I'm too late to get into the "forum discount" but I'll take the time to read and digest this long thread before making any decisions on how to proceed. I recently picked up a 1985 CJ7 Laredo with the factory options such as clock and tach. Tach seems to work fine. Clock not so much. Missing the set arm. I finally to it out yesterday to open it up and see whats what, but after perusing this thread on my phone last night, I think I may just put it back together and use one of these companies mentioned to do a rebuild or quartz conversion. Now to go back and find the posting talking about the CJ mechanical vs quartz comparison. Pretty sure my '85 is the Quartz.

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Glad you are finding this thread useful.

Yes, your clock is likely quartz. I'd recommend ISI to refurbish your clock, but I can't endorse them for any other gauges, unfortunately.

Matt


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