Newbie, CJ-2A brake overhaul requesting preliminary advice - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 20 Old 07-23-2020, 01:56 PM Thread Starter
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Lightbulb Newbie, CJ-2A brake overhaul requesting preliminary advice

Hello,
I'm ordering parts for my 1946 CJ-2A. Brakes all around need attention. I'm planning to try and repair the main and wheel cylinders and replace shoes/linings. The brakes haven't had work done in the last 40 years that I know of. Its not driveable right now. Some advice from experienced owners would be great:

1. Are there some parts that you "know" you should always replace that I can order before I get into the job?
2. Should I attempt to rivet on new linings if the old shoes are OK (I have never done it), or just get new shoes with linings?
3. What is the chance that I will be able to repair the old wheel cylinders? Would you just order new ones?
4. Other sage advice?

Yes, I know its guess work since I'm not into the job yet. I'm just looking for wisdom from experience I don't have. I have raised-on-a-farm-and-not-afraid-to-try level mechanic skills.

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post #2 of 20 Old 07-23-2020, 02:08 PM
John Strenk
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1. Springs and nails if they have them. Parking brake cable. I like replacing the drum, hard to find anyone who turns the drums down these days.
2. I would buy complete assembly. Your and other lives will depend upon it.
3. usually they are cheap enough to replace that I wouldn't bother but I don't know what ones for a CJ2 cost.
4. Get on http://earlycj5.com forum. those guys are great at the real early CJ's like you have.


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post #3 of 20 Old 07-23-2020, 02:26 PM
oldschool74cj5
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hello

if im getting this right this hasnt had a brake job done sine the late 70's. the fluid is probabably at least that old. i would look at pretty much redoing the entire brake system. the next question is what are you using it for and would it be worth putting disc on the front? just something to think about.

for the master cylinder and wheel cylinders i would look at new ones. they probably have rust from the fluid absorbing moisture. makes it hard to get a good hone for they wont leak. i would just buy shoes that are already done. if not carefull can crack the pad when riveting them on. the rubber lines will need to be changed. the fun part is seeing what hardware you can reuse or will have to change out. i would also really go over the steel brake lines. they are 74 years old. if in doubt change it out. remember its your life in the seat.

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post #4 of 20 Old 07-23-2020, 02:38 PM
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Everything you need in one shot.... except for new hard lines


https://walcks4wd.com/Brake-Kit-Drum...48_p_1727.html


All the individual bits and pieces. but yes you will need to pull it all apart to see what you need. IIRC being an early CJ2A, the drums will be behind the hubs so you will have to tear the front and rear down most of the way to get things apart.


https://walcks4wd.com/Brake-System_c_464.html?viewall=1

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post #5 of 20 Old 07-23-2020, 02:54 PM
oldschool74cj5
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fourtrail

i like that they have it all in one kit. i wish when i did my old 74 cj5 years ago i found a kit. i had to take all apart then pretty much order everything separately. but there since i was changing it all i installed the chevy disc on the front. and left the 11" rear drums

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post #6 of 20 Old 07-23-2020, 06:36 PM Thread Starter
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These are very helpful answers. Exactly what I was hoping for. Thanks to all. More to come I hope.
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post #7 of 20 Old 07-23-2020, 06:49 PM Thread Starter
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Intended use is occasional drive to show it off. I think I'll leave the original style brakes.
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post #8 of 20 Old 07-23-2020, 08:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RJ2A View Post
Intended use is occasional drive to show it off. I think I'll leave the original style brakes.
I am all for vintage Jeeps staying stock, however, there are a couple of serous upgrades that greatly improve safety and drivability. The brakes are one of these things. You stock brakes are small, not self adjusting, non energizing, and use a single chamber master cylinder.


By all means get the brakes repaired and get on the road, But I would seriously consider a move to later, larger, self energizing brakes (or disks) and a dual master cylinder.

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post #9 of 20 Old 07-24-2020, 01:20 AM
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You will also want a remote reservoir for the master cylinder, it makes it so much simpler to keep it topped up if you can see it. Mine is fastened to the bulkhead.

I would renew all the brake lines and hoses in the process and seriously consider a dual circuit master cylinder and proportioning valve. I have disc brakes from a Daihatsu on the front because really the brakes will not be up to modern traffic and safety without some modification.

The kit from Walckes does not include the e brake on the transmission. This is an adventure by itself.

Needless to say, keep all the old parts as some of them are hard to obtain.

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post #10 of 20 Old 07-24-2020, 01:19 PM
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Disk brakes are great on the early front, IF your wheels will work with them. I will keep my swapped in 11" drums from a scout/76 CJ-7 and my 15X8.5" Kelsey Hayes wheels and give up the little bit of added braking from having front disks.

80 CJ-5, 74 CJ-6, 56 CJ-5
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post #11 of 20 Old 07-25-2020, 01:33 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepdaddy2000 View Post
I am all for vintage Jeeps staying stock, however, there are a couple of serous upgrades that greatly improve safety and drivability. The brakes are one of these things. You stock brakes are small, not self adjusting, non energizing, and use a single chamber master cylinder.

By all means get the brakes repaired and get on the road, But I would seriously consider a move to later, larger, self energizing brakes (or disks) and a dual master cylinder.

Lots to think about. Safety is a big deal so I appreciate the input (but sometimes seems a little funny when driving around without seat belts or roll protection ).


You all have convinced me to replace everything from below the brake pedal.



I understand that the dual master cylinder would split the circuits front and rear, is that right? Could lose fluid in one and not the other? Redundancy is good.



I found Willy's Jeep Parts11" conversion -- but not self-energizing and not self-adjusting. Is 9" to 11" worth the upgrade? I'm thinking a frankenstein brake system (parts from other vehicles) is not something I would tackle, being low experience. I also see Herm the Overdrive Guy has 11" conversion with self-adjusting brakes. Getting interesting.

Last edited by RJ2A; 07-25-2020 at 01:51 PM.
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post #12 of 20 Old 07-25-2020, 04:48 PM
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All the new stuff.

http://hermtheoverdriveguy.com/cj-brake-conversion-kits
http://hermtheoverdriveguy.com/brake...j-applications
If you can find a late 60's wagoneer, you can source the brakes from that used.
earlycj5.net has write-ups on front disk conversions.
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post #13 of 20 Old 07-27-2020, 04:52 PM
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The kit Fourtrail mentions seems to have it all.

I too have a CJ2A

Imma shopper, I think you could buy things individually cheaper, if you will take the time!

Those drums in the kit "slip over" the front---basically you get rid of the drums being pressed on to the rear and massive disassembly to access the shoes----the new drums make it all so much easier!

Same drums (I just bought some a few months ago) are about $45 a pop at Amazon-----those alone are $180, can you do better with the rest of the stuff?!

If I have one more piece of advice to share----the short lining of each brake shoe set is gonna go to the rear of each wheel (this is backwards from the way you do newer vehicles)(I went a long time with really crappy stopping power before I learned this)

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post #14 of 20 Old 07-28-2020, 02:29 AM
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http://smithfamilycolorado.com/SmittysWillys/sales.htm

Remote reservoir, buy one if you do not already have one. For $40 it will save a PITA every time you check the brake fluid level

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1981 CJ7 258ci - Bagusjeep
1984 CJ7 258ci - Puthijeep
1981 J20 258ci - Gladys
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post #15 of 20 Old 08-02-2020, 05:21 PM Thread Starter
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Puller for early CJ2A rear hub

I see lots of info about the need for a real strong puller for rear hubs.

Then I read that early CJs don't have tapered axle shafts.
Does this mean with a '46 CJ SN 47000s I don't need to invest in the monster puller?
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