New Weber Carb - Page 10 - JeepForum.com
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post #136 of 159 Old 12-14-2019, 06:03 AM
keith460
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stripperguy View Post
Those carriage bolts can push up out of place when you reassemble, I used some safety wire to hold them in place as I raised the tank and skid plate into place.

Factory used a External Retaining Ring to hold the carriage bolts in place. Mcmaster-Carr.com has them in stock for cheap. I used nylon plastic ones but you can get them in stainless as well.

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post #137 of 159 Old 12-17-2019, 08:15 PM Thread Starter
michael72
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Gentlemen,

Tank is out.

Found that my rollover check valve and liquid check valves are shot. Did my homework and found these two replacement parts. Please let me know if these are correct.

Rollover Check Valve: https://store.delorean.com/p-6703-ro...eck-valve.aspx

Liquid Check Valve: Part # JLCV-1 (picture below) from MTS http://www.mtscompany.com/miscjeep.htm

Matt,

I have been taking pictures and keeping notes, I will put together a write up when I am all done.
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Thank you,

Michael
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post #138 of 159 Old 12-18-2019, 07:51 AM
Matt1981CJ7
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Thanks Michael.

I think those parts should work fine. Now you have 2 delorean parts on your CJ...cool.

Matt


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post #139 of 159 Old 12-27-2019, 02:38 PM Thread Starter
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Gentlemen,

All of the parts I needed for the fuel tank overhaul are here and I am ready to put things together. I will keep you posted and put together a final write up when I am done.

I have one question from the carburetor. When setting up, I mistakenly began adjusting the screw pictured below and do not know what it is. I know I changed it from factory so I would like to return it to wherever it needs to be to re-tune the carburetor when I am finished with this.

My fast idle is the only thing that I am not happy right now as I have to feather the gas to keep her running for a little bit until she gets a little warm, around 30 seconds. I would like to address that once I am up and running and I am thinking that more adjustments are in my future after the ignition upgrade so I would like to know where things are supposed to be at baseline again.
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Thank you,

Michael
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post #140 of 159 Old 12-27-2019, 02:56 PM
Matt1981CJ7
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Michael,

That's the fast idle adjustment screw that you messed with. The next time you do a cold start, and before the choke opens, adjust that screw to a fast idle of about 1500 RPM.

Matt
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post #141 of 159 Old 12-30-2019, 07:48 PM
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I really have nothing to add here - other than I firmly believe the info in this thread would answer ~90% of all AMC fuel and ignition questions on the internet.


Well done!




-Steve
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post #142 of 159 Old 01-13-2020, 04:45 PM Thread Starter
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Gentlemen,

All put back together, hesitation was worse on the test drive. Took your advice and rechecked all of my fuel lines and clamps. The metal output fuel line, just as it meets the rear cross-member, was "sweating" gas. Not enough to create a full on leak, just enough rust to prevent that. After a good long laying on my back stare, the metal lines are about to let go in a few spots.

Don't know how to proceed on a fix here. Research tells me not to use rubber. I have ideas and would appreciate your input.

- Replace all of the line with flexible hose that is stainless braided.

- Replace all of the lines with custom bent metal hoses.

- I do not know how to do this but am willing to learn.

- Replace all of the lines with pre-bent replacement ones available online.

- I tried this with my brake lines soon after I bought her eight years ago. Got the distinct impression that you
had to take the tub off to do it. I knew I was going to do this at some point to finish my restoration. I want to
get her painted when I do it and have plenty of other work I want to do before a paint job. If I took the tub off,
I would put it back on in the condition it is. I try not to do things twice and this is a big thing to do twice. It
does not look intimidating to me and am willing to do it.

- Cut out damaged and repair metal fuel lines.

- Don't know what materials to combine. I have looked at some repair kits at the store and decided to come
home and ask you guys.

I have tons of pictures and was really excited to tell you guys the hesitation was gone. I will get this.

Thank you,

Michael

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post #143 of 159 Old 01-13-2020, 05:36 PM Thread Starter
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This is what I would buy for flexible line.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-230420/overview/

Thank you,

Michael
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post #144 of 159 Old 01-14-2020, 10:04 AM
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Here's my suggestion fwiw:


Replace all of the hard line with copper brake line, using the proper flares, fittings etc. Then use whatever flex hose you like off of it. As an aside, I am not a fan of braided covers on hoses. You cannot see when the hose is checked/dryrotted, etc. YMMV.

I just redid all of my fuel lines on my Triumph TR6 this way (Did double flares with the proper fittings) and it worked excellent. The Cu brakeline bends easily and nicely. You can get a variety of fittings at Napa, etc - and you'll want to get a flare to barb fitting whenever you go from hard to flex tube.
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post #145 of 159 Old 01-23-2020, 03:45 PM Thread Starter
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Gentlemen,

Back to square one today. Timing and carburetor.

When trying to set my timing, following Matt's steps from another post, I do not see any pulley mark going by to adjust my timing by. Everything is clean so I can see the timing marks when the engine is running.

I saw some threads about people having their timing out 180 degrees but I got lost and decided to ask for help. I am hesitant to start turning the distributor until I know where I am at.

Any advice?

Thank you,

Michael
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post #146 of 159 Old 01-23-2020, 07:30 PM
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Well.....how is the motor running? Somewhat smooth? Assuming that it IS running, you're in the ballpark. But just to double check, give this a shot:


Take the spark plugs out and rotate the engine by hand until the crank pulley mark lines up with the indicator. Make sure that you look down the spark plug hole and #1 piston is at top dead center. Assuming this is the case, the rotor on the distro should be pointing at the #1 terminal (6:00 position).


This will get you in the ballpark where you should be able to see the timing marks. What kind of timing light?


-Steve
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post #147 of 159 Old 01-24-2020, 08:12 AM
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Elvis has it correct.

You need to confirm TDC of the compression stroke in the #1 cylinder aligns the timing marks to 0, and the rotor points to #1 at the distributor.

Matt


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post #148 of 159 Old 01-24-2020, 09:01 AM
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You said you didn't see a mark on the pulley. You meant balancer, correct? There should be a "hash mark" on the balancer that sweeps under your timing indicator at TDC. You've just got to make sure it's TDC on the compression stroke and you can do that by putting a finger over the #1 plug hole and bump the engine around with the solenoid until it pushes against your finger and then finish spinning the engine around by hand until that hash mark lines up with "0" on the indicator. Then check the location of the rotor in relation to the #1 terminal on the cap.


Shawn

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post #149 of 159 Old 01-24-2020, 01:13 PM
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Hey Michael,

Are you getting anywhere with this?

Matt
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post #150 of 159 Old 01-27-2020, 01:15 PM Thread Starter
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Gentlemen,

I had some family come into town so I took a break.

I have been listening to you guys before you gave me the timing advice. I always do my homework before asking a question and you senior guys are all over the place answering timing questions. The mark wasn't there.

After a long hands-on-hips stare at the floor, I decided to try again. I still could not see the mark on the harmonic balancer. I pushed down on the throttle and I saw the mark come up from underneath the bracket below the 0 degree mark. The timing was about 20 degrees out. Set at around 12 degrees ATDC. Not an expert on timing yet but I am guessing that was a problem.

First test drive was a huge success! All problems gone! While taking a friend on a drive that night, the throttle linkage came loose. Fixed quickly on the side of the road. She started hesitating a little on the way home.

I am going to tune my carburetor again from scratch and then check in.

Is there something I did wrong with the linkage? I saw that other people had trouble so I made sure it was secure.

Forum Etiquette Question:

I am going to do a write-up for Matt about a fuel tank overhaul, should I start a new thread? I am going to start on the ignition system next and was wondering if I should start new threads for each project.

Learning is something that is encouraged by the senior members and I would like to help.

Thank you,

Michael
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