New Member Brake line question - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 15 Old 09-22-2021, 05:30 PM Thread Starter
mech5743
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New Member Brake line question

Hello everyone, new to this group and just finished up redoing a 1980 CJ7. Took it out and the sway bar ripped the right front brake line off. Anyone have this issue they can explain if there is a fix for this.
The CJ7 has a 2.5 lift with JKS removeable sway bar link, 33' tires.
First picture is left side looks like the sway bar would hit the second pictures shows what had happened.

I do understand if I disconnect the sway bar this would not happen but would like to have it so I can run with them in or out if possible

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post #2 of 15 Old 09-22-2021, 05:45 PM
agear
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mech5743 View Post
Hello everyone, new to this group and just finished up redoing a 1980 CJ7. Took it out and the sway bar ripped the right front brake line off. Anyone have this issue they can explain if there is a fix for this.
The CJ7 has a 2.5 lift with JKS removeable sway bar link, 33' tires.
First picture is left side looks like the sway bar would hit the second pictures shows what had happened.

I do understand if I disconnect the sway bar this would not happen but would like to have it so I can run with them in or out if possible
Do you have extended brake lines ?

1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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post #3 of 15 Old 09-22-2021, 05:50 PM Thread Starter
mech5743
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Yes extended lines are on it. Looks like the sway bar hits right where the braided line and hard line come together
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post #4 of 15 Old 09-22-2021, 06:06 PM
RiverandSand
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Looks like the links may be too long. I have the JKS links also, they measure 6" eye to eye. I do have a 4" lift though. If those links are threaded all the way down, you could disassemble the link and cut off an inch or so to gain clearance.
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post #5 of 15 Old 09-22-2021, 06:17 PM Thread Starter
mech5743
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Thanks I measured mine and they are 6 5/8" eye to eye I will look to see if they have a smaller one or modify these thanks for your help.
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post #6 of 15 Old 09-22-2021, 08:55 PM
cjoffroad
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mech5743 View Post
Thanks I measured mine and they are 6 5/8" eye to eye I will look to see if they have a smaller one or modify these thanks for your help.
Your sway bar links look to be the correct length.

The problem is that someone has welded a tab to the axle tube to connect the link. It's way too high with that length link. It's normally connected down on the spring plate.
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post #7 of 15 Old 09-23-2021, 12:27 AM
StoneTower
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I see you have quick release pins in your sway bar. How far does the stud and nut stick out on the brake line side of the sway bar?
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post #8 of 15 Old 09-23-2021, 10:53 AM Thread Starter
mech5743
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjoffroad View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by mech5743 View Post
Thanks I measured mine and they are 6 5/8" eye to eye I will look to see if they have a smaller one or modify these thanks for your help.
Your sway bar links look to be the correct length.

The problem is that someone has welded a tab to the axle tube to connect the link. It's way too high with that length link. It's normally connected down on the spring plate.
Thanks I see what your saying I have ordered new spring pads with sway bar mounts. Will change this over once they arrive that should take care of it. Appreciate everyone’s help.
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post #9 of 15 Old 09-23-2021, 11:28 AM
StoneTower
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Would it work properly if you were to get or make a shorter links? The stock mount on the bottom of the springs is very vulnerable to rocks.

I put an aftermarket sway bar on mine and I made my own bottom mount by welding a long grade 8 bolt on the bottom of my custom spring saddle (it is on the bottom of the spring but I still think it is called a saddle). I have a Scout Dana 44 in the front so an off the shelf spring saddle plate would not work. Being that you have the mount on the axle and it is out of the way, I would go with shorter links if it would function properly when finished. I did not want to weld on the axle with it installed which is why I did what I did but I would rather the mount have more ground clearance.
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post #10 of 15 Old 09-23-2021, 09:11 PM Thread Starter
mech5743
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Thanks StoneTower I ordered some new saddles and will see what I can do to make this work. Looked around didn’t see anything shorter to try and make this set up work. Appreciate the help will let you know how it turns out.
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post #11 of 15 Old 09-24-2021, 02:53 AM
StoneTower
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I am sure others can chime in with the exact details but I believe that others have used the stock links and cut them and put a piece of tubing over the rod.

Something like this:

https://www.jedi.com/quick-disco/
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post #12 of 15 Old 09-24-2021, 04:04 PM
Techlight
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjoffroad View Post
Your sway bar links look to be the correct length.

The problem is that someone has welded a tab to the axle tube to connect the link. It's way too high with that length link. It's normally connected down on the spring plate.
Those are JKS quicker disconnects...I'm pretty sure they only make one of them for a CJ so they're going to be adjustable for 0"-6" of lift ...the welded tab on the tube is the way they're supposed to be, but they're are other orientations you could weld them (see link below for instructions from JKS). That being said JKS website does say, "Some vehicles may require extended front brake hoses or other modifications to compensate for additional suspension travel."

I don't have the quicker disconnects installed because my garage ate them...but I've read the instructions multiple times ...You can move the tab down to a lower position. I really think this would solve your problem. You can also purchase new tabs from JKS IIRC if you don't want to cut and reweld those ones. The new spring pads might work also, but your going to need to extend the disconnects obviously.

The passenger side of the sway bar looks a little higher than the drivers side. The drivers side also looks like it's at about the correct degree (hard to tell from that photo)...is it on level ground? Those JKS disconnects are stock length when completely collapsed (6" eye to eye). I have a 2.5" lift and a modest amount of shackle lift (like less than 1/2" total added height in the front) and my JKS 2.5-6" lift disconnects are about 7 1/2" inches eye to eye and work fine.

If your considering cutting them as others suggested I would consider buying a different set and selling those. They retail for $178 new.

instructions: http://4x4media.info/instructions/jks/JKS4100.pdf
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post #13 of 15 Old 09-24-2021, 05:35 PM Thread Starter
mech5743
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Thanks Techlight I was just reading the instructions on JKS website. Once all my parts arrive (I did ordered longer brake lines as well) I take a look at everything and make sure I get this installed correctly. The JKS quick disconnects were already on the jeep when I bought it. Now going thru everything making sure it’s been done properly
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post #14 of 15 Old 09-24-2021, 07:23 PM
cjoffroad
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Techlight View Post
Those are JKS quicker disconnects...I'm pretty sure they only make one of them for a CJ so they're going to be adjustable for 0"-6" of lift ...the welded tab on the tube is the way they're supposed to be, but they're are other orientations you could weld them (see link below for instructions from JKS). That being said JKS website does say, "Some vehicles may require extended front brake hoses or other modifications to compensate for additional suspension travel."

I don't have the quicker disconnects installed because my garage ate them...but I've read the instructions multiple times ...You can move the tab down to a lower position. I really think this would solve your problem. You can also purchase new tabs from JKS IIRC if you don't want to cut and reweld those ones. The new spring pads might work also, but your going to need to extend the disconnects obviously.

The passenger side of the sway bar looks a little higher than the drivers side. The drivers side also looks like it's at about the correct degree (hard to tell from that photo)...is it on level ground? Those JKS disconnects are stock length when completely collapsed (6" eye to eye). I have a 2.5" lift and a modest amount of shackle lift (like less than 1/2" total added height in the front) and my JKS 2.5-6" lift disconnects are about 7 1/2" inches eye to eye and work fine.

If your considering cutting them as others suggested I would consider buying a different set and selling those. They retail for $178 new.

instructions: http://4x4media.info/instructions/jks/JKS4100.pdf
Absolutely correct, I too run the JKS links, I guess I should have clarified my first post a little more. His links look as short as they'll go which means his welded tab is too high. Pay attention to the ideal sway bar angle in the instructions as well on page 3. His is obviously reversed from ideal. Sorry to @mech5743 for the confusion. If you do plan to use the spring plates you ordered I think you'll have plenty of adjustment on the links to get the ideal sway bar angle.


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post #15 of 15 Old 09-24-2021, 09:58 PM Thread Starter
mech5743
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Thanks CJOffroad not sure if the mount on the spring plate will work not not but make sure it’s correct I really appreciate everyone’s input it has helped out a lot. Now I know what to look for and how to set it up
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