new jeep to me - '80 CJ7 - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 88 Old 01-25-2017, 10:38 AM Thread Starter
smbundy13
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Cj new jeep to me - '80 CJ7

So, I am trading soccer lessons for a 1980 CJ7. I have known the owner of this jeep most of my life. It has been a hunting jeep for a long time (last tagged on the road in '92).

anyways, I am going to try to get it running in the next several weeks (months probably) and had some questions. it has been sitting for at least a year.. I am not sure the level of fuel in it or any status of spark plugs.

here is my list of things to do to get running:
pull plugs, squirt some ATF/Marvel into cylinders to help free them up. (should I do this regardless?)
new battery
change fluids (all engine fluids)
new plugs / wires, and distributor if need be
change trans and t-case fluid once running
new brakes f & r, drain/flush brake lines with new fluid
drop tank, drain old gas and inspect, get cleaned if needed
check clutch and get replaced if needed (probably)

I want to change all the rubber vacuum, brake, fuel lines before getting it on the road but have some questions. is there a universal rubber line size for the fuel and vac hoses? do I just need to change one hose at a time? (feel like that would be best to keep from fouling anything up with wrong routing etc). I dont want to change any hard lines if i can help it.

how about the brake lines? surely there is a soft line kit for sale.. IIRC, those arent that expensive.. since I am going to eventually put (at most) a 4" lift on it.. should I go ahead and get extended lines?

That is all I can think of for now.

here are some pictures..
in my barn


after we got it into my unorganized shop


Engine Bay pic



1980 CJ-7 Alpaca Brown 4.2L, SR4
2.5" lift, Method Con6's, Weber 38, DUI HEI, Painless Harness
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post #2 of 88 Old 01-25-2017, 05:17 PM
HackFabrication
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Charge the battery (or put a new on in), siphon out the old fuel and put some new in, and see if it will fire up.

Worry about the other things after your first spin around the yard....
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"In the end...It's all Hack."
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post #3 of 88 Old 01-25-2017, 05:36 PM
STJP
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Squirt plenty of Marvel Mystery Oil in each cylinder. Even if not seized it will help prevent scoring of cylinder walls and damaging rings. In my experience MMO will not prevent it from firing up.

JS
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post #4 of 88 Old 01-25-2017, 07:44 PM
BagusJeep
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If it has been standing for a year it is unlikely to have seized, put a fresh battery on and see what you have. The clutch may be stuck but if the engine runs, start it in gear and then apply power with the clutch pedal down and then put the brakes on, they free quite quickly.

An engine service is needed but the distributor is probably fine. When you change the cap and wires look at the Teamrush upgrade, same cost of parts but it will run better with the late sixties Ford big cap.

You may find a few vacuum leaks, the vaccum hose is cheap by the foot and I would change out any cracked, grubby hose. It is not the same size as fuel hose and is considerably cheaper.

Worth dropping the tank and cleaning it up and replacing the hoses above the tank, they rot. You can buy a length of good quality fuel hose and cut to length, the original style constant pressure clamps being superior to the screw clamps but hey ho. The supply hoses is 5/16" ID, the return side uses 7/32 ID or something like that and you will need about 3m of hose. Remember to replace the 3 way fuel filter near the carb and I would put a cheap clear plastic fuel filter in just before the pump. You probably will need to strip the Carter BBD and clean internally the white fuel deposits, a $15 kit and a can of carb cleaner and a few hours and it will be a s good as new. Keep that OEM air cleaner!!!

The brakes may be working, check the wheel cylinders for leaks and push the pistons in the front brakes back a bit into their bores with a lever. If they all move they should let you get the Jeep up and running. Once it is running you can assess if they are in good condition, the rears often are apart from leaking cylinders, the front discs can wear down. Nothing complex here!!!

When you have the fluids changed, spend some time under the CJ with a grease gun. Dying art, greasing. Eventually the wheel bearings will need greasing but the first ones I would grease are steering and driveshafts.
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BagusJeep lives in Bali with far too many 4x4s:
1981 CJ7 258ci - Bagusjeep
1984 CJ7 258ci - Puthijeep
1981 J20 258ci - Gladys
1951 Willys CJ3A/MB/M38 - Little Willy
1995 Cherokee 4.0 - CHEROKEE
1980 Land Rover Series III 109" troop carrier - ROVER
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post #5 of 88 Old 01-26-2017, 07:26 AM
jdhuffcj5
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http://oljeep.com/edge_parts_man.html

Having Factory Service Manuals, Wiring Diagrams, Vacuum Diagrams etc. will help you a ton. I know it has helped a newbie like me. Also, Haynes or Chilton's manuals can be a help, but the original Jeep FSMs are hard to beat for detail etc.
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post #6 of 88 Old 01-26-2017, 08:14 AM Thread Starter
smbundy13
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got out to the shop after putting the kids to bed last night for a little bit. was going to siphon the fuel out of the tank but nothing came out.. either the siphon hose didnt get far enough in (likely (also, thats what she said)) or there isnt fuel in the tank (less likely because i can somewhat smell it).. I hooked up my new battery and barely bumped the starter.. it turned over like a champ.. I didnt try to start it or anything like that... just was curious. I have some questions. though... this being an '80 with a 258 I6.. it has an Air Pump (according to my googling) what does that do?

the air pump has a hose that goes around back of the air cleaner to this..
what is this?

also, it looks like this thing had, at one time, A/C.. is this the bracket for the compressor?


if so, it is in the way of the #1 spark plug.. can i just take the block side of this bracket loose to get to that plug? It looks like the alternator is mounted to the bottom of this bracket..
I want to keep the bracket in tact because it would be a great place to put OBA if I ever decide to do that..

thanks for the information.

1980 CJ-7 Alpaca Brown 4.2L, SR4
2.5" lift, Method Con6's, Weber 38, DUI HEI, Painless Harness
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post #7 of 88 Old 01-26-2017, 11:55 AM
HackFabrication
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Air pump is part of the emissions control system.

And yes, that does look like a A/C bracket.

"In the end...It's all Hack."
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post #8 of 88 Old 01-26-2017, 12:42 PM Thread Starter
smbundy13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HackFabrication View Post
Air pump is part of the emissions control system.

And yes, that does look like a A/C bracket.
ok, how do i get the #1 spark plug out? do i need to remove/loosen the A/C bracket?

1980 CJ-7 Alpaca Brown 4.2L, SR4
2.5" lift, Method Con6's, Weber 38, DUI HEI, Painless Harness
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post #9 of 88 Old 01-08-2018, 09:14 AM Thread Starter
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updates:

alright.. after a long time and two additional part orders.. i got the lift installed. its a 2.5" superlift superride lift.



I had to order 1 new shackle.. so i went ahead and ordered 4 new ones... after that, I figured out that the rear shock location was not in the correct place.. it was welded on the axle (ugly welds as well) instead of on lower spring plate... so, ordered two new spring plates for the rear and longer sway bar links.

got everything installed and torqued and took it for a short drive.. I am pretty sure i over-torqued the main spring eye bolt.. (not the shackle side but the other side of leaf spring)

I read online that it is supposed to be torqued to 100ft lbs. now the jeep rides pretty rough.. maybe i put too much torqued on those bolts? or maybe i put too much torque on the sway bar links before it was on the tires?

either way, I still need some engine tune-up work to be done.. i have a terrible exhaust leak and need to install my weber carb. also, need to get some spacers until i can find some w/t axles.. I also scored a '95 YJ bar for $80! so that needs to go on at some point.

1980 CJ-7 Alpaca Brown 4.2L, SR4
2.5" lift, Method Con6's, Weber 38, DUI HEI, Painless Harness
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post #10 of 88 Old 01-09-2018, 10:01 AM
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Over-torque of the shackle bushing bolts absolutely can affect ride.

My preference is to use nylock nuts, and tighten just enough to contact the shackle, but no more.

Make sure the bushings and shackles are greased as well.

Hoss

Good judgement comes from experience; experience comes from bad judgement
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post #11 of 88 Old 01-14-2018, 08:59 PM Thread Starter
smbundy13
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Yeah. The swing shackles are good. They have the lock nuts. I will go over it a bit more. I kind of think the sway bar links might be the culprit.
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post #12 of 88 Old 01-07-2019, 09:31 AM Thread Starter
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onto my (apparently) annual update of my project... it has been at my buddy's shop for a while to do some work. he installed my Weber, DUI distributor and the painless kit.. last weekend, we got the timing and the carb dialed. we have a couple things left of the dash wiring.. had some problems with my gauges so i found some used gauges that i have been told work.. (we will see)..

I have some W/T axles bought and will pick them up the next time i go back to visit alabama.. I am planning on swapping the n/t hubs to the w/t axles to keep the 6 bolt hub that, according to my reading, is stronger than the newer 5 bolt.. will probably do a 1 piece rear axle conversion before they get put in as well..

got the YJ bar installed and the windshield bars are in.. since my last post, i found a YJ softtop and half doors for an absolute steal right down the road from my house..

since my CJ is an '80, it doesnt have the provision in the body for the new style striker.. I bought the Collins brothers adapters for the newer style strikers and got them working.. took a lot of modifying to get them to work which is dissapointing. we had to machine almost a half inch spacer on the actual striker and turn the striker down a hair to get them to fit.. as of right now, they are working great..

I have a fixed back rear seat that will be installed after the gauges and what not are finished. then we will tackle the 3 point seat belts front and rear.

Doors installed.. funny enough the bar and the doors are from two different jeeps but the colors are spot on.. we will be painting the bar


the red arrow shows the spacer we had to make


Weber carb... note, the filter plumbing is not finalized in this picture


DUI HEI distributor and nice Live Wires plug wires


Battery hold down strap.. should work better than the stock clamp.. not bad for $10 in bits.


fit of the doors.. should be great.

looking forward to this being done..

1980 CJ-7 Alpaca Brown 4.2L, SR4
2.5" lift, Method Con6's, Weber 38, DUI HEI, Painless Harness
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post #13 of 88 Old 01-07-2019, 10:12 AM
robblue6412
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Looks like some great progress, nice job!
I'm really loving the wheels you have here. Can you tell me more about them? I'm in the market for some for my CJ - potentially this year.

Rob
1980 CJ7 304/4sp
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post #14 of 88 Old 01-07-2019, 12:49 PM Thread Starter
smbundy13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robblue6412 View Post
Looks like some great progress, nice job!
I'm really loving the wheels you have here. Can you tell me more about them? I'm in the market for some for my CJ - potentially this year.
yeah, they are the method Con6 bronze 17". if you dont have w/t axles, you will need some spacers.. they dont have a whole lot of backspacing.

I picked the 17" because now i can run rubicon take off tires with my 2.5" lift.
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1980 CJ-7 Alpaca Brown 4.2L, SR4
2.5" lift, Method Con6's, Weber 38, DUI HEI, Painless Harness
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post #15 of 88 Old 01-16-2019, 12:58 PM Thread Starter
smbundy13
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newest update.. got some finishing work done on some of my lights..

got the headlights in.. and running..


expanded side shot with my side marker lights



tail lights working.. also pictured.. old 4wd hardware sticker and plate with 1992 registration sticker on it.. awesome
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1980 CJ-7 Alpaca Brown 4.2L, SR4
2.5" lift, Method Con6's, Weber 38, DUI HEI, Painless Harness
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