New 1985 CJ-7 with 1994 4.0 - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 16 Old 02-03-2020, 11:19 AM Thread Starter
uttlc
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New 1985 CJ-7 with 1994 4.0

Hi! Just joined today after picking up a new to me 1985 CJ-7 with a 1994 4.0 swapped in by a previous owner over the weekend (I think the swap might have been done by Jeeps-R-Us back in 2005). This is my second CJ, with a 1982 CJ-7 Laredo being my first car about 20 years ago.

The jeep runs and looks great, but of course its got some issues. The tach, speedo, and voltmeter don't seem to work. None of the dashlights work, the wipers don't come on when you turn the switch, and the horn doesn't work. The turn signals work, but seem to be pretty weak. I'm going to dig into the fuse box and the rats nest of wiring under the dash and see whats going on in there but if anyone has an idea where this might lead, I've love any help. I'm ordering a power probe today to help trace any issues I find but I won't lie, electrical work is not my strong suit. Thanks and looking forward to spending way too much time and money on this thing.

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post #2 of 16 Old 02-04-2020, 08:45 AM Thread Starter
uttlc
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Thought I'd add a pic. Also trying to figure out how much, if any, lift this one has. Its sitting on 31x10.50x15s if that helps.
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post #3 of 16 Old 02-04-2020, 09:59 AM
only in a jeep cj
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Looks good. Welcome back to CJs.
Fuel injection is the way to go.
Do you know if that is the original decals or the original style of decals?
If they are, that’s not an 85.
Does it have the fold n tumble rear seat?

Ed
1975 CJ-6 1983 CJ-8
1986 CJ-7 Laredo 1986 TJ-7 Trail Jeep
2003 Inca Gold TJ Rubicon
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post #4 of 16 Old 02-04-2020, 10:16 AM Thread Starter
uttlc
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Its nice to have it fire right up and not deal with the carb and choke issues I had on my 82. Plus, I feel like it pulls way harder than the 4.2 ever did, even after I threw a rod and had to put a rebuilt motor in.

Those aren't the original decals, or original paint. According to the VIN it was the base model, and it looks like someone just dressed it up a bit. Its got a fold n tumble rear seat but its aftermarket...and painted. I didn't know painting seats was a thing.
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post #5 of 16 Old 02-04-2020, 02:31 PM
AUWalker
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Looks great!
Those wheels are on sale right now for around $60.. Your pictures basically convinced me to pull the trigger

'86 CJ-7, #Jeepcalledbooger
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post #6 of 16 Old 02-04-2020, 11:07 PM
BagusJeep
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Very nice!!!

The 4.0 is a short stroke so revs much more happily, the 258 has better low down torque. Love to have one.

The usual PO mess starts with a review of teh circuitry. Is it wired as per 1984 or not?

If so, this fuse box diagram may help.
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1981 CJ7 258ci - Bagusjeep
1984 CJ7 258ci - Puthijeep
1981 J20 258ci - Gladys
1951 Willys CJ3A/MB/M38 - Little Willy
1995 Cherokee 4.0 - CHEROKEE
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post #7 of 16 Old 02-04-2020, 11:11 PM
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The tach could be made to work, it is a pass through type that needs to be connected to the coil. In a 4.0HO the power comes from the ASD relay in the power distribution box, which is itself controlled by the powertrain control module. In a CJ7 it comes from the ignition switch through the tach.

Teh ret of your issues are all contained within the fuse box and dash harness.

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1981 CJ7 258ci - Bagusjeep
1984 CJ7 258ci - Puthijeep
1981 J20 258ci - Gladys
1951 Willys CJ3A/MB/M38 - Little Willy
1995 Cherokee 4.0 - CHEROKEE
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post #8 of 16 Old 02-05-2020, 02:17 AM
Axhammer
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There is some good info in this thread.

https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/w...zards-4385877/

1985 CJ-7 Red with white hardtop, 258 auto
View my Pontiac in my profile
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post #9 of 16 Old 02-05-2020, 08:39 AM Thread Starter
uttlc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AUWalker View Post
Looks great!
Those wheels are on sale right now for around $60.. Your pictures basically convinced me to pull the trigger
I love that look as well. They originally had chrome ring hub caps, which looked ok, but made a terrible noise going down the road. Off they went.
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post #10 of 16 Old 02-05-2020, 08:54 AM Thread Starter
uttlc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BagusJeep View Post
The tach could be made to work, it is a pass through type that needs to be connected to the coil. In a 4.0HO the power comes from the ASD relay in the power distribution box, which is itself controlled by the powertrain control module. In a CJ7 it comes from the ignition switch through the tach.

Teh ret of your issues are all contained within the fuse box and dash harness.
I can live without the tach, since messing with the power control module seems above my paygrade. I'm comfortable turning wrenches and doing mechanical work, but I am completely green when it comes to electrical work - 3 way lightswitches in the house are about my cutoff!

Coincidentally, I started pulling some fuses under the dash last night, and after putting everything back in, turn signal indicator in speedo worked, wipers worked, and blower motor worked so they must have just not been fully seated. Speedo is still out, but that is probably the cable, and the radio still isn't getting power. One step at a time.
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post #11 of 16 Old 02-05-2020, 09:37 AM Thread Starter
uttlc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Axhammer View Post
There is some good info in this thread.

https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/w...zards-4385877/
I've been following that one, seems like he's doing now what I'll be doing soon.
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post #12 of 16 Old 02-06-2020, 12:23 AM
schardein
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I ran a 4.0ho for about 15 years before swapping to a 5.3 LS. Great choice for a CJ.

1983 CJ7, 5.3, NV3550, D300 4:1, Fr D44 Detroit, Rr D44 OX, 4.56, 35" Falken A/T3W on beadlocks
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post #13 of 16 Old 02-06-2020, 09:21 AM Thread Starter
uttlc
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I guess the fix was temporary. All the things that worked a couple days ago don't work again today. Time to find the loose connection.
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post #14 of 16 Old 02-07-2020, 01:34 AM
BagusJeep
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Check the yellow wire for voltage where it comes out of the column connector. Near all of your complaints have this wire in common.

It may be your ignition switch, the wire itself, a dodgy connection etc but I believe it is before your voltmeter. When you git it working did your voltmeter spring back to life?

Easiest way to track this down is a 12V test lamp and some long leads. Hook one end to a ground and go searching for voltage, you get a clear indication.

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1981 CJ7 258ci - Bagusjeep
1984 CJ7 258ci - Puthijeep
1981 J20 258ci - Gladys
1951 Willys CJ3A/MB/M38 - Little Willy
1995 Cherokee 4.0 - CHEROKEE
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post #15 of 16 Old 02-08-2020, 05:24 AM
Wallace85Cj
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Try wiggling the fuse block. When I first got my Cj none of the gauges worked. Then they worked then they didnít.checked fuses nothing. Then I wiggled the fuse block and it worked. Took it apart and cleaned the contacts and itís worked for 4 years and counting. I also put dedicated grounds on it as well. I just put a 4.0 in mine well a stroker motor but I have the omix ada replacement tach. I spliced into a wire that runs to the coil like most tachs say to do. As for your oil pressure and coolant sensor they should be sensors for a 4.2 258 from what Iíve read when swapping to the 4.0.


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