Need Advice For Replacing Brake Lines on an 83 CJ7 - Page 2 - JeepForum.com
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post #16 of 25 Old 04-15-2020, 08:49 PM
CSP
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PB Blaster is good, but Kroil is way better as it penetrates joints instead of sitting on top of them.

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post #17 of 25 Old 04-16-2020, 08:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WadeHiersSr View Post
The proper tool for removing those flare nuts is a crow-foot wrench......I would just get a good pair of Round Jaw Vice-grips to pull them.
No sir. The proper tool is not a crow foot wrench. The correct tool is a flare nut/line wrench which the OP used. Those Vice-Grips are good for breaking the nut loose but more often than not distorts the nut.
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post #18 of 25 Old 04-16-2020, 10:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OrangeCJ-5 View Post

No sir. The proper tool is not a crow foot wrench. The correct tool is a flare nut/line wrench which the OP used. Those Vice-Grips are good for breaking the nut loose but more often than not distorts the nut.
Can you tell me the difference between a crow foot wrench and a flare nut wrench? Have you never heard of a tool with two common names?

You obviously missed the first half of the thread. The OP is replacing his lines. Who care if the flare nuts that you're throwing out get torn up?

You noted that the OP used a flare nut wrench but missed in that same post that he had to resort to using vice-grips on a couple.
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post #19 of 25 Old 04-17-2020, 01:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WadeHiersSr View Post
Can you tell me the difference between a crow foot wrench and a flare nut wrench? Have you never heard of a tool with two common names?

You obviously missed the first half of the thread. The OP is replacing his lines. Who care if the flare nuts that you're throwing out get torn up?

You noted that the OP used a flare nut wrench but missed in that same post that he had to resort to using vice-grips on a couple.
A crows foot is like a regular open wrench that only goes against the two flats of a nut while a line / flare nut wrench goes around the nut with an open area for the line to go through.

I did not miss that part at all. He could have cut the brake line and put a socket on the compression nut.

Top picture is a crow foot. Bottom picture are line wrenches.
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post #20 of 25 Old 04-17-2020, 07:49 AM
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I stand corrected... I have always called the wrench pictured in your second picture a crow-foot wrench. So I meant the same thing, but have obviously had the wrong name.

I stand by my comments on the vice-grips answer though. That was how I ultimately had to get mine done as well. I of course only used them to remove the old lines and it was quick and easy. Since I had the body off, I decided to bend my own new lines from NiCop tubing. There's even a cheap option for stainless line guards (that spring coil) on Amazon. All in, I think my new lines cost around $35.
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post #21 of 25 Old 05-20-2020, 04:42 PM Thread Starter
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Final Udate

Well it’s done. I ended up having custom stainless brake lines bent for me. The shop I used was in NY so this pandemic stuff slowed the process. Getting the old lines off was as challenging as we all predicted. Every flare nut required vice grips to break lose. Two brake lines came out in pieces because the nut was rusted to the tube and twisted In two.

My CJ7 has a salvage title. Everything in front of the firewall is 1978. Everything else is 83. The brake line guy dubbed it “Frankenjeep”. Every part I replaced took at least two tries to get the right part. For instance the bleed valves on the calipers are 3/8, but on the rear drums they’re 10mm.

In the end it all worked out. One of the custom tubes was 3” too long. It is the long line from the metering valve to the rear brake hose. So it ended up with a higher arch tucked away above the transfer case brace/skid plate than the Arch there on the original tube. Otherwise old Blue is back on the road ready for new adventures.
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post #22 of 25 Old 05-22-2020, 03:31 PM
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Thanks for the update. You will be glad you have SS.

Did you put any anti-seize on the nuts? Copper based is best....not bothered by the heat. Makes like a lot easier if you ever need to remove them.

And....any pics?


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post #23 of 25 Old Yesterday, 09:55 AM Thread Starter
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Yep. Everything has copper anti seize. Hopefully these tubes will last another 30 years and I won’t have to worry about breaking them lose again.
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post #24 of 25 Old Yesterday, 03:08 PM
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There is a special place somewhere reserved for people who replace the hard brake lines without removing the tub. I had to remove the radiator, but I was able to work around the steering shaft & ps hoses. Curious to hear your thoughts on feeding the long line from the. prop valve to the rear crossmember... I did it from the rear wheel well, but maybe there was an easier way?


https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/r...lines-3288377/
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post #25 of 25 Old Today, 06:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Willyc View Post
For instance the bleed valves on the calipers are 3/8, but on the rear drums they’re 10mm.
I wouldn’t pay too much attention to the size of the bleeder screws. A lot of times the aftermarket replacement part uses a metric bleeder screw when the original was SAE.

Quote:
Originally Posted by hbar View Post
There is a special place somewhere reserved for people who replace the hard brake lines without removing the tub.
I was “fortunate” in that I replaced my fuel and brake lines when I did the frame swap. I say that because replacing the frame was not in my original plans.
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