My Megasquirt efi and turbo build - Page 7 - JeepForum.com
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post #91 of 116 Old 03-09-2017, 02:26 AM
Fernando
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https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/k...ngine-4007793/



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I don't mind writing for Fernando because he reads, and re-reads EVERY WORD!... Good to write for someone that actually READS the answer, and takes time to UNDERSTAND what comes back for an answer!
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post #92 of 116 Old 03-09-2017, 10:39 AM Thread Starter
dn101009
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Thats sweet! I haven't given much thought to a knock sensor. Now that I see how it works, I think i will look into it. What did you use the sensor out of? What exactly was that control module that was on the side of your dash? Have you put an idle valve on yours? I need to put one on mine, because I will have air conditioning and the 2.5's don't really have enough power at Idle to run one efficiently. Im hoping to get it reved up to 1-1200 for A/C and warm up.
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post #93 of 116 Old 03-09-2017, 06:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dn101009 View Post
Thats sweet! I haven't given much thought to a knock sensor. Now that I see how it works, I think i will look into it. What did you use the sensor out of? What exactly was that control module that was on the side of your dash? Have you put an idle valve on yours? I need to put one on mine, because I will have air conditioning and the 2.5's don't really have enough power at Idle to run one efficiently. Im hoping to get it reved up to 1-1200 for A/C and warm up.
Ok man, I'll answer in parts

First of all let me say if you are going the turbo route, you absolutely CAN NOT live without a knock sensor, it's indispensable for a turbo engine, may be the difference between life and death of the engine, so get one.

You can get the generic Bosch sensor and module from this guy, Megasquirt ready, now I don't know if a Microsquirt can handle it, in which case, that would be a problem. You need to jumper the JS4 port to an available pin on the megasquirt connector, and user TunerStudio to program the Microsquirt to listen for knock on this port. I can instruct you later on the specific settings.

I do have an idle valve, I had to jumper four cables in my MS2 board in order to control it, works like a charm. Stepper kind valve from GM, exact same as Jeep's 4.0. I have attached my settings for idle control and my idle warmup curve ( basically a graph that controls the behavior of the valve as the coolant temp progresses, so you start with a high idle and end up with lower idle as temperature increases )

For AC control, I know you can use the Megasquirt to handle the idle-up, but in my case, I used the wideband oxygen sensor. I am using EGO control ( Exhaust Gas Oxygen closed loop ) basically I tell the Jeep to strive for a particular AF ratio at idle (13.5) so when I turn the AC on the mixture leans and the engine injects a bit more fuel, it handles very well the AC pull, however your case may differ, mine is a 4.2.

I'll do some research on how to get the idle up if you turn the AC on.

Hope I answered your questions
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepHammer
I don't mind writing for Fernando because he reads, and re-reads EVERY WORD!... Good to write for someone that actually READS the answer, and takes time to UNDERSTAND what comes back for an answer!
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post #94 of 116 Old 03-10-2017, 04:45 AM
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The Microsquirt will handle a fast idle (Fidle) valve. These are simple two wire on/off type. Turn it on and it creates a vac leak so the mS will add fuel, raising the rpm. A 4 wire IAC motor can do a tapered idle adjustment. It can increase or decrease in steps. These will need an aftermarket controller. They are around $60. The cheapest way, is to use a Fidle valve for warm up, and use the timing table to adjust for the AC. Basically, you add timing below the rpm where your engine normally idles. When the AC turns on, the rpm drops into this higher timing setting area and increases the rpm again.
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post #95 of 116 Old 03-12-2017, 10:57 PM
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The aftermarket controller you refer to, is that for the MicroSquirt? My MegaSquirt did not need any additional components to handle the stepper valve...

On the other hand, I will look into your timing adjustment, My timing table is fixed at 10 degrees initial, but this sounds very interesting.


Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepHammer
I don't mind writing for Fernando because he reads, and re-reads EVERY WORD!... Good to write for someone that actually READS the answer, and takes time to UNDERSTAND what comes back for an answer!
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post #96 of 116 Old 03-13-2017, 01:40 AM Thread Starter
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I am going to use the two wire ford idle valve. I believe it it is Pulse Width Modulation (PWM), but I still need to do my research. I don't believe I need to get any kind of controller for the microsquirt to run it. If this is the case, it will be just as easy using the idle valve for the A/C then adding timing to the engine. If I have to get a controller for a idle valve, I may as well use the stock 4.0 valve on the throttle body. I hope I don't have to get a controller. I want to keep this as clean and simple as possible.

Oh and Fernando. How come you didnt use the A/C input to turn your idle up? Im not sure on your setup, but there is an input on the microsquirt that will take your signal to from either your switch on your dash or from the compressor wire and use that to give the signal to open your idle control. I plan on using his to run an electric fan as well if I decide I want an electric fan. That way the condenser will always have airflow when the compressor is on.
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post #97 of 116 Old 03-13-2017, 05:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fernando View Post
The aftermarket controller you refer to, is that for the MicroSquirt? My MegaSquirt did not need any additional components to handle the stepper valve...

On the other hand, I will look into your timing adjustment, My timing table is fixed at 10 degrees initial, but this sounds very interesting.
Yes, it's needed for Microsquirt only. Megasquirt has 4 wire AIC capability built in. Microsquirt lacks a few things, but they can be resolved. The 4 wire AIC box is here.http://www.efisource.com/shop/micros...epper-adapter/
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post #98 of 116 Old 01-30-2018, 04:49 PM Thread Starter
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Well, I finally am back to work on my jeep a little. Been in the corner of my shop for three years now. I am pretty motivated now. I am planning on doing the Gambler 500 this summer, so I better get my butt in gear. Here are some progress pictures.
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post #99 of 116 Old 01-30-2018, 06:27 PM
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There is either a CJ or Wrangler on Jacksonville Fl craigslist that has a Mercedes V6 turbo diesel installed. Anyone ever done that?
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post #100 of 116 Old 02-01-2018, 11:12 AM Thread Starter
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Ok I think I got my pictures figured out. Been so long since I have been on here posting pictures.
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post #101 of 116 Old 02-01-2018, 12:04 PM
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That pipe sticks past the bell housing a little bit. Is that going to clear your firewall?

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post #102 of 116 Old 02-05-2018, 12:14 AM Thread Starter
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I left that pipe long. I will most likely have to weld on a sharp downturn to make it work. I am actually pretty nervous about the fit. My buddy and I did the header about 5 hours away from the jeep, so It was a bit of a shocker when I got it home and realized how far back we mounted the turbo.
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post #103 of 116 Old 02-05-2018, 12:20 AM Thread Starter
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Got it started up on the stand today. Have a small oil leak right at the turbo inlet I can't get figured out. I think i may have to change the AN fitting out. Just seems to seep out of the fitting. To be honest, I have never been a fan of AN fittings. They have always seemed a bit overkill and too complicated for most applications. Other than that, broke the turbo in just like how the instructions said. I may have to run a scavenge pump, which I did not want to do. Next step, is getting the jeep outside and the engine bay all cleaned up. Ill have to eliminate the wiring that I no longer need now. I really need very little wiring other than for the lights, charging and A/C. now. Most everything else will be in the ECU harness. I am looking forward to doing some final wiring and getting all my crappy temporary wiring cleaned up on the engine.
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post #104 of 116 Old 02-06-2018, 09:38 AM Thread Starter
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Well I made some really good progress yesterday. I had no motivation to do real work, so I basically just worked on the jeep all day. Anyway, the engine is in, at least for now. It actually went pretty smooth. Only a couple issues. 1. although the exhaust fit better then I thought it would, it will still require some fab work to get the downpipes away from the body and snaked along the bell housing. 2. The stock booster is very close to the throttle body. Anybody know the diameter of a YJ booster. I need to do something to gain more clearance. I did the YJ conversion years ago on another CJ, but for the life of me I can't remember if the physical size is the same. Anybody know the size differences on the YJ vs CJ brake booster and master set up? Im willing to look into any other conversions too.

Thanks guys.
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post #105 of 116 Old 02-06-2018, 05:42 PM
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Wow. I'm impressed. I didn't think it would fit at all. That pipe is still close though.

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Sherwood Green Metallic/Nutmeg Interior
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Dana 30/Model 20 with 4.10 gears
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