Multi panel replacement help. - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 12 Old 03-04-2020, 09:16 PM Thread Starter
Cortez97
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Multi panel replacement help.

If you had to replace the bed floor, wheel tubs and rear corners on CJ tub what order would you do them in and would you leave the tub on the frame or pull it off? Please don't say buy a new tub, I'm not going to do that.

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post #2 of 12 Old 03-05-2020, 06:42 AM
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In my opinion, I would start with the rear and work your way in. I would make sure the corners line up with the side of the tub and make sure the everything looks right on the outside keeping the inside untouched for reference dimensions. I'm thinking you are going to have to replace the bed and wheel wells together but I could be wrong. Just make sure to measure a lot and keep in mind that adding heat can warp metal. I haven't replaced panels on a CJ but I did on a Jeep Truck working from the outside in and it turned out great.

I would say do what you can while its on the frame so that none of the panels shift. When I was doing the truck I had it off the frame and I had to brace it up so the floor mounts didn't shift on me.

Check out classic enterprise (https://www.classicent.com/) for replacement panels, I hear nothing but great stuff from them.
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post #3 of 12 Old 03-05-2020, 09:34 AM
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Make sure to learn as much as possible about how the areas you'll be working on are constructed. For instance, is the floor panel structural, or 'cosmetic?' (If you remove the floor panel, will the whole back end of the tub sink because the underside of the panel is what mounts to the frame, in other words.) Same with the wheel tubs. Will the outer skins still be supported by framework once you remove the wheel tubs and/or floor panel? If not, you might need to weld-in some supports/jigs to keep everything aligned while replacing the structural pieces.

The corners are pretty much cosmetic (I've replaced mine without hassle).

I would say that if the floor panel and wheel tubs are not structural, then pull the corners, tubs, then floor panel, and replace in reverse order. If those pieces are indeed structural, the pull the tub off the frame to make repairs, otherwise when something lets go, you'll have to recover from that and all your 'true' measurements will be lost and hard to recover.

Hope that makes sense.
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post #4 of 12 Old 03-05-2020, 06:52 PM
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I believe you need to remove the rear floor section first in order get access to remove the wheelhouses but Iím going by memory from a few years ago.
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post #5 of 12 Old 03-05-2020, 09:50 PM
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There's a guy on youtube that makes his own panels and assembles them into tubs. He has posted detailed videos on the order of assembly, where spot welds should go, and more. Look for metalshaper there to see his videos.
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post #6 of 12 Old 03-06-2020, 05:15 AM
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Having worked on original and repl-itubs, the floor deck panel must come off first, followed by the corner panel and then the wheel houses.
You will need a spot welder drill bit to cut out all the spot welds and invest in right angle drill like a DeWalt or Milwaukee. Drilling out the spot welds can put you in some tight spots and you have to think ahead as to which side of the panel needs to be drilled. One panel is going to have the hole while the other will only have a spot weld blemish.
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post #7 of 12 Old 03-06-2020, 01:01 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CSP View Post
There's a guy on youtube that makes his own panels and assembles them into tubs. He has posted detailed videos on the order of assembly, where spot welds should go, and more. Look for metalshaper there to see his videos.
Thanks!
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post #8 of 12 Old 03-06-2020, 01:03 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by keith460 View Post
Having worked on original and repl-itubs, the floor deck panel must come off first, followed by the corner panel and then the wheel houses.
You will need a spot welder drill bit to cut out all the spot welds and invest in right angle drill like a DeWalt or Milwaukee. Drilling out the spot welds can put you in some tight spots and you have to think ahead as to which side of the panel needs to be drilled. One panel is going to have the hole while the other will only have a spot weld blemish.
Thank you!
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post #9 of 12 Old 03-06-2020, 01:07 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Mister4x4 View Post
Make sure to learn as much as possible about how the areas you'll be working on are constructed. For instance, is the floor panel structural, or 'cosmetic?' (If you remove the floor panel, will the whole back end of the tub sink because the underside of the panel is what mounts to the frame, in other words.) Same with the wheel tubs. Will the outer skins still be supported by framework once you remove the wheel tubs and/or floor panel? If not, you might need to weld-in some supports/jigs to keep everything aligned while replacing the structural pieces.

The corners are pretty much cosmetic (I've replaced mine without hassle).

I would say that if the floor panel and wheel tubs are not structural, then pull the corners, tubs, then floor panel, and replace in reverse order. If those pieces are indeed structural, the pull the tub off the frame to make repairs, otherwise when something lets go, you'll have to recover from that and all your 'true' measurements will be lost and hard to recover.

Hope that makes sense.
I did buy a full manual suite on CD that has been pretty helpful in understanding how they all go together, what's on there now was replaced at one time already so I'm not totally certain I can go off what I'm seeing in the tub now. The biggest thing I was trying to wrap my brain around was keeping the whole thing together while removing these pieces that seemings hold the whole structure together. There are lots of parts of the tub that are in perfect condition so I didn't want to get a replacement, plus I just really want to figure this out anyway.
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post #10 of 12 Old 03-06-2020, 01:13 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Deer-Slayer_5 View Post
In my opinion, I would start with the rear and work your way in. I would make sure the corners line up with the side of the tub and make sure the everything looks right on the outside keeping the inside untouched for reference dimensions. I'm thinking you are going to have to replace the bed and wheel wells together but I could be wrong. Just make sure to measure a lot and keep in mind that adding heat can warp metal. I haven't replaced panels on a CJ but I did on a Jeep Truck working from the outside in and it turned out great.

I would say do what you can while its on the frame so that none of the panels shift. When I was doing the truck I had it off the frame and I had to brace it up so the floor mounts didn't shift on me.

Check out classic enterprise (https://www.classicent.com/) for replacement panels, I hear nothing but great stuff from them.
I have been looking on there, they have some panels that you can't find other places. Are you familiar with https://www.c2cfabrication.com their panels are pretty cheap and look like they are the same gauge as everyone else. Any experience with them?
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post #11 of 12 Old 03-08-2020, 06:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cortez97 View Post
I have been looking on there, they have some panels that you can't find other places. Are you familiar with https://www.c2cfabrication.com their panels are pretty cheap and look like they are the same gauge as everyone else. Any experience with them?
I haven't had any experience with C2C. I actually haven't had experience from the other site I mentioned but I have personally talked with other CJ owners who have and they pointed me to classic enterprise. I've been told that the guys at classic enterprise sign their work before it ships out. I'm guessing this is a quality control check but I am sure either site is better than most of the reproduction stuff.

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post #12 of 12 Old 03-12-2020, 12:44 PM
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I replaced my CJ5 rear floor with the full panel from Classic Enterprises. I highly recommend them as the new floor was pretty much dead on in size.
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