MMGoat's 1985 CJ7 Build - Page 4 - JeepForum.com
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post #46 of 188 Old 04-04-2019, 06:57 PM Thread Starter
MetalMountainGoat
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Yes, very good. I'm still amazed at how it drives down the road. My untouched 1978 CJ7 didn't even drive as good as this one.

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post #47 of 188 Old 04-05-2019, 02:13 PM Thread Starter
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Rained all day today, so there wasn't much major work going on. Also couldn't drive it to the tire place to have my new 33s put on so we spent the day cutting, buffing, and polishing it instead.

Turns out my seats won't be here till Monday, so they will get put in when they arrive. Should change the whole look of the Jeep again.

We have decided to go with the Painless wiring kit 21 Circuit Direct Fit Jeep CJ Harness P/N 10150. And have also decided to change out the steering wheel. The original is like driving a school bus, and my father and myself are bigger guys, so smaller wheel equals no belly rub. Anyways, pics of the after polish.
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post #48 of 188 Old 04-07-2019, 01:39 PM Thread Starter
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Painless Performance direct fit Wiring harness ordered yesterday. Should be here next week. And I can get this rat's nest of wires straightened out.
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post #49 of 188 Old 04-08-2019, 11:25 AM Thread Starter
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33s put on today. Seats arrived, and painless wire harness should be here tomorrow. Hoping to be driving it on the regular by the end of this month
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post #50 of 188 Old 04-09-2019, 03:54 PM Thread Starter
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Got the driver's seat in today, and cleaned up and painted the passenger side seat mount. The ****tybilt seats are actually much nicer than I thought. They should do great. Turns out that they do lean forward more than the seats I had, so that took care of the gangster lean that I had going while driving it. Painless harness hasn't showed up as of 5PM today, so I'm still waiting for it.

I did look into changing my electric fuel pump to mechanical, but I quickly figured out that my 350 doesn't even have a hole in the block for the arm to go through. Usually a block off plate is there, and the hole behind it, but now on this one. I've still got to figure that out. I'll get pics of the seats and the fuel pump situation tomorrow.
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post #51 of 188 Old 04-10-2019, 09:11 AM
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The spring hangers were part of your yj spring conversion a common mod for the CJs and one I plan to do for my CJ5. I've been researching it for sometime now and was wondering about the steering box bracket and this confirms my concerns. I plan to use Old Man Emu springs and the kit comes with new spring hangers but mentions nothing about the steering box. What bracket did you wind up using and part number if you have it. Also planning to use boomerang shackles too. Which did you get?your steering box problems with your bell coupler shows me what I'm in for when I get to that point. Thanks for sharing your build and it's looking good.
Shawn

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post #52 of 188 Old 04-10-2019, 02:46 PM Thread Starter
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If I knew what I know now, it would have been a lot smoother process. I stuck with MORE mount (PN: SB7686Z), I just removed the 1/4"spacer that it says to put between the mount and the frame. This spacer would normally be there because the mount would bolt over the spring hanger. My hangers had been moved so they were not between the mount and the frame like normal. I am definitely going to have to switch to Borgenson* shaft even though I did rebuild my bell coupler. The steering shaft wasn't quite long enough in the factory configuration because the MORE mount moves it forward about an 1 1/2".

I also knew that my spring hangers were from the YJ SOA setup that was on it before, but it never occurred to me that they would throw off the steering until I started to install the MORE mount. When I put my front springs in, I realized that they were too short (may not have happened if I had of used YJ lift springs). This brought in the boomerang shackles. Mine are rough country 1 3/8" lift shackles. They actually do not give the Jeep any front lift since I used them to more or less to put the lower shackle hole were it would be from the factory.

Hope that answers all your questions. Let me know if you need any more information.
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post #53 of 188 Old 04-10-2019, 02:55 PM Thread Starter
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Made some progress today. Managed to pull the entire dash out and got the old wiring harness removed. The old harness was a joke. PO had this Jeep running off of 5 circuits. Some of them were doubled up. I removed the painless harness from the box and went through it. You wouldn't believe how complete it is. I highly recommend it. I haven't gotten too far into it yet, but it seems so simple I could probably train my dog to put it in if he had thumbs. Pics below of some progress. I am still waiting on my new key lock cylinder, and blinker harness before I go too far into the wiring. Don't poke fun at my racing inspired steering column mount. It was also a mod done by the PO. I will be fixing it as well during this process.

I do have a few questions about the engine part of the harness that I will be asking painless about. I have an electric fuel pump and have to figure out how to wire it up. The painless harness has a circuit built in for my electric fans, so I will wire them back up and they will come on with the ignition switch.

Pics of the ****tybilt seat are also in this post.
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post #54 of 188 Old 04-11-2019, 01:41 PM Thread Starter
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More wiring went in today. Got the speedo refurbished and looking good. Hooked up the speedo cable and all the wiring. Waiting on my dash indicator lights, wiper switch, and new heater box pull cables, so that I can refit the dash. I think I am going to move on to the engine section of the harness while I wait on parts. The only thing I have left on the dash is the indicators, and the switches. Everything on the column is wired up including new blinker harness and ignition. Also installed a new key lock cylinder. I now have a functioning column key switch.
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post #55 of 188 Old 04-12-2019, 01:40 PM Thread Starter
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More wiring took place today. I am still waiting on indicator lights, blower switch, and wiper switch. Dash is temporarily installed until they arrive (4/17/2019) . This harness has been super easy so far.

Moved on to the engine harness. Got all the front lamps wired up and reassembled. Have to find my neutral safety switch and reverse switch on my AX15 transmission. None of that was hooked up by the PO. Any one have any ideas/advice?

Also realized that I don't have a horn which, but unless I don't want one, we don't have to install it (SC doesn't do inspections). No washer pump either, but I am defintely not going to install that.

Also, my engine SBC350 appears to have the ignition module on top of the distributor. Does anyone know anything about these?
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post #56 of 188 Old 04-13-2019, 08:10 AM
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Gm used those style distributors for like 30 years. There basically a 2 wire set up. This is an hei set up I made for mine using a Chrysler distributor. It has the same module that's in your distributor.
20190308_162204_1555164177526.jpgscreenshot_20190413-100859_google_1555164591032.jpg
You can basically hook up a power wire to it and run a tach wire if you need a tach some tachs need a converter to work properly

its a rusty one

https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/90-yj-frame-swap-build-up-1434246/
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post #57 of 188 Old 04-13-2019, 10:50 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you for that information. That is exactly what I needed to know.
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post #58 of 188 Old 04-14-2019, 05:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MetalMountainGoat View Post
Thank you for that information. That is exactly what I needed to know.
No problem. Glad I could help

its a rusty one

https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/90-yj-frame-swap-build-up-1434246/
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post #59 of 188 Old 04-15-2019, 01:54 PM Thread Starter
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Update, more wiring. Almost done with the engine harness. My indicator lights, heater cables, steering wheel, and wiper switch should all be here tomorrow so that I can button up the dash. All I have left to do in the engine bay is wire up the alternator and starter, and it will be done. I am hoping to have it back on the road by this weekend. Got a Jeep poker run in May that I am wanting to run it in.
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post #60 of 188 Old 04-16-2019, 05:42 PM Thread Starter
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I'm sure you guys can guess! MORE WIRING. This brings my total time doing the painless harness to right at 22 hours total and I'm still not finished. I have everything wired up except for the ACC wiring that will power my fuel pump, the fuel sending unit, and my wiper switch (order the wrong one).

The Grant steering wheel showed up today with all of my heater control cables, got the cables installed, indicator lights installed, and buttoned up the dash except for the wiper switch. Nothing is bolted down tight yet. Want to test the harness first before I cinch down on the zip ties, and put all the bolts back in. Testing starts tomorrow.

Question for those of you who have done some wiring before. I have your standard GM starter (Starter solenoid on top of starter). I only ended up with a blue start signal wire and the main positive batter terminal coming out of my starter. Is this correct? I didn't need the ballast resistor that the painless book shows since I have and HEI distributor, so there ended up only being two wires coming from the starter solenoid. I'm assuming the solenoid is grounded through the motor since it is attached to it.
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