Locked drum when lug nuts are tight - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 25 Old 11-30-2019, 05:10 PM Thread Starter
77jeepcj5
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I recently rebuilt my drum brakes on my AMC 20. After getting finished and put the drums back on, the left side wouldnt move when the drum was tightened on with lugs. Right side seemed just fine. Come to find out, the old shoes were 1" 3/4, while the stock size is 2". The old drums were 2" drums. I got new drums, and still the same thing. I've taken them apart again and again, adjusted differently, checked everything over and over. Even tried different brand shoes. It appears the shoes themselves are rubbing on the drum. Also the axel looks different on one side than the other, (one has the cover over the splines and one is missing) but both stick out the same length. Never know with the things I find from the PO. Any ideas? Pictures of the differences in the axle shafts attached

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Last edited by 77jeepcj5; 11-30-2019 at 07:44 PM.
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post #2 of 25 Old 12-01-2019, 07:48 AM
pedal2themetai
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HI yes the backing plates should be the same and i'm thinking its the one with the plate on the out side of the backing plate thats right. Did you remove the backing plates ? maybe got them mixed up front to back? your ether going to have to find the right backing plate or fine the 1 3/4 shoes..
good luck
tim
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post #3 of 25 Old 12-01-2019, 08:50 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by pedal2themetai View Post
HI yes the backing plates should be the same and i'm thinking its the one with the plate on the out side of the backing plate thats right. Did you remove the backing plates ? maybe got them mixed up front to back? your ether going to have to find the right backing plate or fine the 1 3/4 shoes..
good luck
tim
Thanks for the reply Tim! Yeah i was thinking that one was correct as well and the other side was missing that little plate . I havent taken the backing plates off. First time ive ever had the drums off too. The fronts are disks. At a loss with it
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post #4 of 25 Old 12-01-2019, 12:21 PM
skizriz
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The picture on the right is definitely wrong. The seal and plate go on the outside of the backing plate as it is in the left side picture.
With it wrong, the backing plate would be too far out' and not leaving enough clearance for the shoe.
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post #5 of 25 Old 12-01-2019, 12:30 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by skizriz View Post
The picture on the right is definitely wrong. The seal and plate go on the outside of the backing plate as it is in the left side picture.
With it wrong, the backing plate would be too far out' and not leaving enough clearance for the shoe.
Thanks for the reply! Thats what i was thinking as well, but having no expierence with axles, I was clueless. The side that is wrong is the one side that isnt locked strange enough. So i should just get a new seal and plate for the side with it missing?
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post #6 of 25 Old 12-01-2019, 02:21 PM
oldschool74cj5
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hello
before doing the rear brakes if that was me i would be doing a full servicing of there rear axle. what i mean is replace both inner and out seals for each wheel, repack the bearings,re-shim wheel bearings and change the fluid. then i would go on the the rear drums. the not fun part is going to be pulling the hub off the shaft. they do make the puller still but i would try and find a rental or someone with one. remember to keep the nut on a couple threads over the cotterpin hole. helps not messing up the cotter pin hole and more important the hub from flying off and hurting you. before ordering any parts you probably want to pull apart and really check the axles and hubs and make sure there good to reuse. if there not good this would be a good time to look at a one piece axle. if you are doing a one piece axle then you can skip pulling the hub and just cut the bearing off the axle because you will need the back plate. dont mix up back plates because one is right and other is left. the way to tell is the parking brake cable has the hole in the forward side. once the axle is back togethor then move onto the drums. when i do drums i always put new hardware kits(springs,pins etc.) the position of primary and secondary shoes do matter.
its not real hard to do if you have a copy of a manual. i would go to oljeep website and get a copy of the factory manual. with that and taking time you will be fine.

oldschool
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post #7 of 25 Old 12-01-2019, 02:40 PM
pedal2themetai
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HI. at close up look it looks like the seal and speacer is behind the backing plate on the one without shoes. I think I can see the flange of the plate inside the hole with a close up look. If you pull the backing plate I think you'll see the problem. That little bit of thickness would be enough to make the shoes rub. OH the picture of the one with the shoes is correct.
Good luck
tim
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post #8 of 25 Old 12-01-2019, 02:42 PM
pedal2themetai
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OH sorry but your going to have to pull the axle to fix it. IE change it around. OH I think the barren might have to come off to change it..
good luck
tim
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post #9 of 25 Old 12-01-2019, 02:48 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldschool74cj5 View Post
hello
before doing the rear brakes if that was me i would be doing a full servicing of there rear axle. what i mean is replace both inner and out seals for each wheel, repack the bearings,re-shim wheel bearings and change the fluid. then i would go on the the rear drums. the not fun part is going to be pulling the hub off the shaft. they do make the puller still but i would try and find a rental or someone with one. remember to keep
the nut on a couple threads over the cotterpin hole. helps not messing up the cotter pin hole
and more important the hub from flying off and hurting you. before ordering any parts you probably want to pull apart and really check the axles and hubs and make sure there good to reuse. if there not good this would be a good time to look at a one piece axle. if you are doing a one piece axle then you can skip pulling the hub and just cut the bearing off the axle because you will need the back plate. dont mix up back plates because one is right and other is left. the way to tell is the parking brake cable has the hole in the forward side. once the axle is back togethor then move onto the drums. when i do drums i always put new hardware kits(springs,pins etc.) the position of primary and secondary shoes do matter.
its not real hard to do if you have a copy of a manual. i would go to oljeep website and get a copy of the factory manual. with that and taking time you will be fine.

oldschool
Thanks oldschool for all the great info! I knew I could count on you guys. Looks like I'll be pulling the axle apart tonight! 🙃
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post #10 of 25 Old 12-01-2019, 02:50 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pedal2themetai View Post
HI. at close up look it looks like the seal and speacer is behind the backing plate on the one without shoes. I think I can see the flange of the plate inside the hole with a close up look. If you pull the backing plate I think you'll see the problem. That little bit of thickness would be enough to make the shoes rub. OH the picture of the one with the shoes is correct.
Good
tim
Quote:
Originally Posted by pedal2themetai View Post
OH sorry but your going to have to pull the axle to fix it. IE change it around. OH I think the barren might have to come off to change it..
good luck
tim

Thanks for all your help Tim! Looks like I'm pulling apart the axle 🙃
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post #11 of 25 Old 12-01-2019, 05:38 PM
Tinker0000
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I'd definitely look into a one piece rear axle kit before trusting that hub to go back on without future problems. It has to come apart to remove the backing plates anyhow. I'm imagining your doing this on the 77 CJ5 like your handle. Currently $325 with PROMO code SANTA at Jegs Kit #718-CJS
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post #12 of 25 Old 12-01-2019, 06:58 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Tinker0000 View Post
I'd definitely look into a one piece rear axle kit before trusting that hub to go back on without future problems. It has to come apart to remove the backing plates anyhow. I'm imagining your doing this on the 77 CJ5 like your handle. Currently $325 with PROMO code SANTA at Jegs Kit #718-CJS
Yeahh might as well do it since I'll have it apart. Thanks tinker!
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post #13 of 25 Old 12-01-2019, 07:01 PM
oldschool74cj5
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hello
no problem that is what we are all here for to keep these cj's rolling. if you are going with a 1 piece i would defiantly go with a set from moser before any of the china ones. if you with 1 piece and cant get the hub off dont worry. once you pull the axle out you can cut the race or just cut the shafts to get the backing plate off. the good thing with a 1 piece is there isnt any shims for the bearings. BUT saying that you will want to remove thrust block in the differential. some people have had bearing problems because of the trust block still inside.

oldschool
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post #14 of 25 Old 12-01-2019, 09:31 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldschool74cj5 View Post
hello
no problem that is what we are all here for to keep these cj's rolling. if you are going with a 1 piece i would defiantly go with a set from moser before any of the china ones. if you with 1 piece and cant get the hub off dont worry. once you pull the axle out you can cut the race or just cut the shafts to get the backing plate off. the good thing with a 1 piece is there isnt any shims for the bearings. BUT saying that you will want to remove thrust block in the differential. some people have had bearing problems because of the trust block still inside.

oldschool
Havent heard anything about the thrust block. I'll have to look that up. Thanks for the heads up oldschool. Should be trying to get the axle shafts out sometime next week. Looks like I'll rent an axle puller to get out the old shafts
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post #15 of 25 Old 12-03-2019, 09:39 PM
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I did the one piece axles. Definitely recommend. The kit comes with instructions. It’s pretty straight forward. There are also a few good installation videos on YouTube that were helpful to watch first to get a good idea of the procedure.

Just a heads up that you will definitely need to use a hydraulic press to press the bearing retaining collar into the axle shaft. Not happening with a bench vice or arbor press or anything like that. Don’t waste your time. Go straight to a hydraulic press.
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