Is this a light switch issue? - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 16 Old 02-11-2020, 08:40 PM Thread Starter
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Is this a light switch issue?

As some of you all know I'm in the middle of tearing apart my dash and doing the LED upgrade/clean-up. I've got most of the lights in place and things were acting a bit buggy. I plugged in the adapter to the steering wheel just in case there was some ground or something but I don't think that is it. The switch is acting a little too crazy. At some spots it turns the clock off, makes the lights flicker, etc. Any ideas? Is this a buggy switch?




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post #2 of 16 Old 02-11-2020, 09:14 PM
pedal2themetai
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HI You have the power wires mixed up you have the dash light wire connected to the power wire of the clock.
good luck
tim
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post #3 of 16 Old 02-11-2020, 10:38 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by pedal2themetai View Post
HI You have the power wires mixed up you have the dash light wire connected to the power wire of the clock.
good luck
tim
The power from the clock goes straight to the fuse box where it has 'CLK', so I imagine it is good to go. The only thing I can think of is the ground, which is on the same screw, sandwiched in nuts, with another ground from the harness. I'm thinking these grounds may be doing a little fighting? Unless something is being sent back through the fuse box but that does sound right.

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post #4 of 16 Old 02-11-2020, 10:47 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by uw91 View Post
The power from the clock goes straight to the fuse box where it has 'CLK', so I imagine it is good to go. The only thing I can think of is the ground, which is on the same screw, sandwiched in nuts, with another ground from the harness. I'm thinking these grounds may be doing a little fighting? Unless something is being sent back through the fuse box but that does sound right.
Whelp, that wasn't it. Moved the ground and the light switch still shuts off the clock.

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post #5 of 16 Old 02-12-2020, 04:48 AM
John Strenk
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Make sure you have the clock power and light plugged in correctly.

Name:  Clock Power and Light.jpg
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If it is Connected properly then it could also be your dash is not grounded properly and applying power to some other section of the dash lights raises the ground by the clock.

Make sure the dash is grounded properly. Run a wire to the (-) post of the battery.
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post #6 of 16 Old 02-12-2020, 05:35 AM
pedal2themetai
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HI you need to go back thru your wiring.. I can also see that lights on your dash go on and off just like your clock.. You got some wires crossed up..
the lights I see going on and off in your speedo should not be effected by the light switch
good luck
tim
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post #7 of 16 Old 02-12-2020, 11:06 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by John Strenk View Post
Make sure you have the clock power and light plugged in correctly.
If it is Connected properly then it could also be your dash is not grounded properly and applying power to some other section of the dash lights raises the ground by the clock.

Make sure the dash is grounded properly. Run a wire to the (-) post of the battery.

Interesting, I have a splice coming off the clock light wire. The clock is in the correct spot, but your grounding mention has me thinking this is the correct thought. When you say 'Make sure the dash is grounded properly. Run a wire to the (-) post of the battery.', you mean to simply connect a wire to the negative terminal on the battery from a screw on the dash. Correct?
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post #8 of 16 Old 02-12-2020, 12:27 PM
pedal2themetai
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HELLO,, you need to go back thru your wiring.. I can also see that lights in your speedometer go on and off just like your clock.. You got some wires crossed up..
the lights that are going on and off in your speedometer should NOT be effected by the light switch.
good luck
tim
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post #9 of 16 Old 02-13-2020, 09:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uw91 View Post
Interesting, I have a splice coming off the clock light wire. The clock is in the correct spot, but your grounding mention has me thinking this is the correct thought. When you say 'Make sure the dash is grounded properly. Run a wire to the (-) post of the battery.', you mean to simply connect a wire to the negative terminal on the battery from a screw on the dash. Correct?
Correct, that will make sure the dash is properly grounded, Bot other things that have a poor ground can feed back through the dash lights like turn signals and high beams.

The clock wiring harness light circuit should have a tap going to the tachometer illumination.
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post #10 of 16 Old 02-13-2020, 02:00 PM
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The spinning of the headlight switch is the dimmer for the dash indicators and speedo back lighting. The flickering is caused by a break, worn spot or corrosion in the rheostat or dimmer coil on the switch itself. So pedalt2theme... has it wrong. The clock issue though, I have no clue. You said you were doing the LED lighting upgrade, some LEDs don't like to be dimmed without a specific dimmer made for them. They prefer to be either on or off, not somewhere in between. The dimmer knob may cause them to flicker more than the incandescent bulbs.
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post #11 of 16 Old 02-13-2020, 03:31 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Tinker0000 View Post
The spinning of the headlight switch is the dimmer for the dash indicators and speedo back lighting. The flickering is caused by a break, worn spot or corrosion in the rheostat or dimmer coil on the switch itself. So pedalt2theme... has it wrong. The clock issue though, I have no clue. You said you were doing the LED lighting upgrade, some LEDs don't like to be dimmed without a specific dimmer made for them. They prefer to be either on or off, not somewhere in between. The dimmer knob may cause them to flicker more than the incandescent bulbs.

So replace the dimmer, gotcha. I unwrapped all my wires again to go back through and make sure everything is appropriately connected and no goofy splices. Which is appears there are a few.


Is there a best practice for splicing one wire into 3 or 4? I'm curious if the factory did this but would also like to get the experts views.


I think I'm going to go rogue on the LEDs. I found some that are more full degree to fill the gauge and we'll see how it goes.

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post #12 of 16 Old 02-13-2020, 04:00 PM
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Do you have courtesy lights under the dash.
Did you swap those lights over to LEDs.?

If not then this makes sense.

The clock ground and most of the light share the same ground point on the dash. With the dash hanging loose there is no direct ground.

When you turn the dimmer full, it closes a switch grounding the courtesy light to ground to the dash. But since the ground is not connected, it raises the ground of the dash up to 12 volts drawing power through the courtesy lights.

Since both sides of the clock circuit is at 12 volts, the clock stops. The ground for the clock needs to be at 0 volts or it wonít run.

Why is the clock running at other times? The clock and the LEDs need little current or voltage. The could be small ground connection back feeding through the headlight circuits or turn signal circuits. Or even a light in a radio that is grounding through the attenna ground instead of a normal ground path.

Donít try to troubleshoot anything without grounding the dash.
Itís also a great way to burn out you fuel and Temperature gauges because without a ground, the voltage regulator is not operating.

The clock running backwards for a second is normal as there is some backlash in the gears in the clock. Once it starts running, it takes a second until all the backlash is eliminated.
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post #13 of 16 Old 02-13-2020, 04:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uw91 View Post
So replace the dimmer, gotcha. I unwrapped all my wires again to go back through and make sure everything is appropriately connected and no goofy splices. Which is appears there are a few.


Is there a best practice for splicing one wire into 3 or 4? I'm curious if the factory did this but would also like to get the experts views.


I think I'm going to go rogue on the LEDs. I found some that are more full degree to fill the gauge and we'll see how it goes.
No harm in replacing the headlight switch to get a clean dimmer but it won’t fix your problem until you ground the dash. I’ve pulled many headlight switches with corroded dimmer wipes an loose windings that short out and blow fuses.

Ground your dash.

Honestly I can’t think of any better way to splice those wires together than the way the factory did it. I probably would of changed the whole design and use circuit boards with twit in bulbs but that would of thane a complete engineering change.

With LEDs you won’t have much current passing through that point but still it would be a good idea to wrap some high temp tape over it then some black electrical tape. We like to use Kapton tape in those situation. If you can find the loose end. You can try to slip some shrink tubing over it an cover the junction that way.

Ground your dash.

If you pull the speedometer apart and paint the inside white, you will get a much better illumination that way. White is better than dull or polished steel in this case.

The original bulb had a specific filament height just to give out the proper light to flood the area. So any LED with a broader angle of light would be best. Light pointin at the back side of the dial face is wasted light.

Ground your dash!,,,
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post #14 of 16 Old 02-15-2020, 12:50 PM
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Run a dedicated ground from your battery (-) post through the dash.


At battery side of engine compartment, drill a 1/4" hole into the firewall just above or next to battery. Put a bolt (I used Brass) through that hole and secure it with nuts and lock washers from BOTH sides. Make sure the bolt sticks out at both sides of the fire wall so you can add wires to that post on either side of the firewall as you add accessories. So from post to bolt on firewall. From there (bolt inside), run a dedicated ground wire directly to your dash somewhere. I used the bolt for the glove box handle as my grounding point. Now your dash has its own dedicated ground, which most of those gauges rely on.
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post #15 of 16 Old 02-18-2020, 06:15 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by John Strenk View Post
No harm in replacing the headlight switch to get a clean dimmer but it wonít fix your problem until you ground the dash. Iíve pulled many headlight switches with corroded dimmer wipes an loose windings that short out and blow fuses.

Ground your dash.
Ground your dash!,,,
Whelp, replaced the switch and it was a good thing I did. That thing was messed up. here is a pic of the spring getting caught up with the tab.

Also, I grounded my dash. Seems to have helped.
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