Let's Trouble Shoot this 360! - Page 6 - JeepForum.com
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post #76 of 136 Old 08-28-2019, 05:22 PM
ddawg16
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Me thinks that engine is the equivalent of a 'flipped house'

On the compression....I think the last step before a total rebuild would be to pull the timing gear cover and confirm the valve timing is correct. Being off one tooth can change your valve timing enough to cause low compression.

Additionally, the condition of the timing chain is a good indicator of the whole engine....assuming it has not been changed. If the chain is new....and installed correctly....engine is worn out.

BTW....what was the oil pressure? Low ail pressure usually means all the bearings are worn.



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post #77 of 136 Old 08-28-2019, 05:27 PM Thread Starter
garet.friedrich
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Timing chain has not been touched. What are some good indicators that it could be bad?

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post #78 of 136 Old 08-28-2019, 05:32 PM Thread Starter
garet.friedrich
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Oil pressure read 20-28

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post #79 of 136 Old 08-28-2019, 08:38 PM
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I've been following this thread and it reminded me how confused I was when I had problems getting an engine going on my 82 CJ7 20 years ago. These guys are teaching you some valuable lessons and your learning stuff that is invaluable. Keep going and keep posting, your doing good! Jeep guys are about as good with wrench as you will find out there and you'll figure it out. I'm hoping you don't have to do a whole rebuild but you have oil and coolant leaks and generally those aren't good. That 360 is a great engine with the proper cam! GL
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post #80 of 136 Old 08-29-2019, 06:03 AM
pedal2themetai
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HI, when the motor was running if the timing bounced around while it was idling (not staying solid on the mark at idle) chain is bad. if you have the cover off anything over 1/2 inch reflectin is bad also look for broken teeth (gear is most likely plastic covered those can brake up.
good luck
tim
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post #81 of 136 Old 08-29-2019, 06:25 AM Thread Starter
garet.friedrich
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pedal2themetai View Post
HI, when the motor was running if the timing bounced around while it was idling (not staying solid on the mark at idle) chain is bad. if you have the cover off anything over 1/2 inch reflectin is bad also look for broken teeth (gear is most likely plastic covered those can brake up.
good luck
tim
The timing actually stayed pretty consistent when it was at idle. When I would put a timing light on it wouldn't bounce around at all. My plan is to take the heads off next. I'm hoping not to have to take the chain cover off, but if it comes to that I will.

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post #82 of 136 Old 08-29-2019, 07:02 AM Thread Starter
garet.friedrich
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pedal2themetai View Post
HI, when the motor was running if the timing bounced around while it was idling (not staying solid on the mark at idle) chain is bad. if you have the cover off anything over 1/2 inch reflectin is bad also look for broken teeth (gear is most likely plastic covered those can brake up.
good luck
tim
The timing actually stayed pretty consistent when it was at idle. When I would put a timing light on it wouldn't bounce around at all. My plan is to take the heads off next. I'm hoping not to have to take the chain cover off, but if it comes to that I will.

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post #83 of 136 Old 08-29-2019, 08:37 AM
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You can check timing slop without taking the cover off. rotate the crank counterclockwise about 1/4 revolution, then watch the rotor and rotate the motor clockwise, measure the degree of crank rotation until the rotor begins to move. That will tell you how much slop you have in the timing chain and timing gears.
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post #84 of 136 Old 08-29-2019, 08:53 AM Thread Starter
garet.friedrich
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Originally Posted by Fourtrail View Post
You can check timing slop without taking the cover off. rotate the crank counterclockwise about 1/4 revolution, then watch the rotor and rotate the motor clockwise, measure the degree of crank rotation until the rotor begins to move. That will tell you how much slop you have in the timing chain and timing gears.
You mean the rotor on the distributor correct? If I remember correctly there was some play in the chain....

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post #85 of 136 Old 08-29-2019, 08:56 AM Thread Starter
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Found this old photo of the chain back when I was cleaning the motor up.
Attached Thumbnails
F473585F-C4B4-46C2-AB1C-50D1FF8A5E14_1567090597591.jpg  

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post #86 of 136 Old 08-29-2019, 09:52 AM
pedal2themetai
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HI, looks like there quite a bit of slack in the chain?? I'd change it.. but that's just me.. They aren't that expensive.
good luck
tim
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post #87 of 136 Old 08-29-2019, 09:58 AM Thread Starter
garet.friedrich
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Originally Posted by pedal2themetai View Post
HI, looks like there quite a bit of slack in the chain?? I'd change it.. but that's just me.. They aren't that expensive.
good luck
tim
Could that be a possible explanation for how it was running?

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post #88 of 136 Old 08-29-2019, 09:58 AM
pedal2themetai
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OOOHHHH. I Think I found your problem .... I enlarged the picture and found.. Your drive (on the cam )distributor gear is ripped up and splines all ground flat on top in that picture
Have to change the cam to get new distributor gear I'd do lifters too (kit).
good luck
tim
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post #89 of 136 Old 08-29-2019, 10:00 AM
pedal2themetai
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What does the bottom of your distributor look like????
That damage could only be done by stabbing the distributor in and bolting it down with out engauaging the splines . it looks fresh so the last person to put it in, prior to your taking this picture??
good luck
tim
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post #90 of 136 Old 08-29-2019, 10:02 AM Thread Starter
garet.friedrich
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pedal2themetai View Post
OOOHHHH. I Think I found your problem .... I enlarged the picture and found.. Your drive (on the cam )distributor gear is ripped up and splines all ground flat on top in that picture
Have to change the cam to get new distributor gear I'd do lifters too (kit).
good luck
tim
Can I just replace the gear without replacing the entire cam?

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