Let's Trouble Shoot this 360! - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 136 Old 08-08-2019, 09:40 AM Thread Starter
garet.friedrich
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Let's Trouble Shoot this 360!

Hey guys! I'm about at my wits end trying to get my amc 360 running properly. Hoping some of you awesome people out there might be able to help me out! So I'm at the point where I've been able to drive it but there is never any power when I hit the gas pedal and eventually it just turns into a loud sucking sound coming from the carb. I know I have something messed up I just don't which thing it might be. The carb is an A800 Ford carb (advertised as compatible with the amc 360). What do I need to do about adjusting it?
Yellow arrow- What plugs into here? Should I just cap it?
Red arrows- Do i need a hot wire going to the left arrow and a ground to the right arrow? Or basically how do I wire the choke up properly?
Green circle- How do I go about adjusting this stuff over here on this side of the carb?
q1.jpg
Also, I have my fuel pump lined into my fuel filter with 2 ports coming out the back side....one going to the carb and the other to my fuel return line to the tank. Originally the motor was set up with the fuel filter only being hooked to the carb. My question is where else could the fuel return line possibly hook into?

Feel free to ask me questions on what I have and havent done or checked so far. I'll be running home over lunch so I can grab more pics then to help with the diagnosis.


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post #2 of 136 Old 08-08-2019, 11:30 AM
Fourtrail
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Yellow arrow it the bowl vent, do not cap it. should be key on power to both red arrows, left is the sol-vac that will open the throttle blade when running and completely close to keep from dieseling when you shut the engine down should also be a vaccum line that attaches to this.. green screw is your high idle adjustment. make sure you have the correct base gasket for your carb or you may have a large vaccum leak.
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post #3 of 136 Old 08-08-2019, 11:56 AM Thread Starter
garet.friedrich
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Yellow arrow it the bowl vent, do not cap it. should be key on power to both red arrows, left is the sol-vac that will open the throttle blade when running and completely close to keep from dieseling when you shut the engine down should also be a vaccum line that attaches to this.. green screw is your high idle adjustment. make sure you have the correct base gasket for your carb or you may have a large vaccum leak.
Thanks, Fourtrail! So I do have the bowl vent capped off so ill be removing that first thing. I used the gasket that came with the carb so I'm thinking i should be good there. What's the best way to go about adjusting the high idle screw?
Here's a pic I took over lunch of my fuel filter set up. Shouldn't be any problems with this right?
q2.jpg

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post #4 of 136 Old 08-08-2019, 12:13 PM
Fourtrail
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You want to rotate the fuel filter so the return is on top, want any vapor bubbles to return, not get trapped in the filter. with the choke closed and the fast idke cam rotated, quick tap of the throttle should engage the fast idle cam, then you want to adjust the screw to get a 1500-1800 rpm fast idle.

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post #5 of 136 Old 08-09-2019, 05:25 AM Thread Starter
garet.friedrich
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So I can get it to sound pretty good at idle but when I go to drive it there's barely enough power to go at a snails pace plus it constantly tries to die... not sure where to look next?

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post #6 of 136 Old 08-09-2019, 07:10 AM
Matt1981CJ7
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Can we take a look at the plugs, please.

What vacuum layout are you using? EGR? Vapor canister? Manifold or Ported vacuum advance? Are all unused vacuum ports capped?

Matt


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post #7 of 136 Old 08-09-2019, 07:38 AM
Fourtrail
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Checking for vacuum leaks, with it idleing, you can spray carb cleaner around the base and listen for an idle change. Is the choke fully open before you are trying to drive around? Also what is the timing set at? Have you verified TDC and made sure that the balancer hasn't slipped and the timing mark isn't TDC anymore?
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post #8 of 136 Old 08-09-2019, 08:08 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt1981CJ7 View Post
Can we take a look at the plugs, please.

What vacuum layout are you using? EGR? Vapor canister? Manifold or Ported vacuum advance? Are all unused vacuum ports capped?

Matt
By plugs do you mean the spark plugs? They are all new except for a couple old ones I reused bc I broke some new ones. It might be worth noting that cylinders 1&2 don't get as hot on the exhaust as the other ones do. They warm up but very slowly.

No EGR and no Vapor canister. I'm not sure what you mean by manifold or ported va? I have the dist va hooked into the carb. I'm fairly certain all unused vacuum ports are capped but I'm also very new to this whole thing.
8.9b.jpg

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post #9 of 136 Old 08-09-2019, 08:11 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fourtrail View Post
Checking for vacuum leaks, with it idleing, you can spray carb cleaner around the base and listen for an idle change. Is the choke fully open before you are trying to drive around? Also what is the timing set at? Have you verified TDC and made sure that the balancer hasn't slipped and the timing mark isn't TDC anymore?
I plan on trying the carb cleaner trick over lunch today. Choke seems to be fully open...I'll make a note to check that... I do not have the choke wired up just yet. I was originally at TDC but the dist has been played around with trying to adjust it. Will probably need to reset on TDC again.

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post #10 of 136 Old 08-09-2019, 08:13 AM
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Yes, show us the spark plugs, please. They will provide clues to whether your problem is air/fuel related, or something else.

Matt


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post #11 of 136 Old 08-09-2019, 08:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by garet.friedrich View Post
I plan on trying the carb cleaner trick over lunch today. Choke seems to be fully open...I'll make a note to check that... I do not have the choke wired up just yet. I was originally at TDC but the dist has been played around with trying to adjust it. Will probably need to reset on TDC again.
Without power to it, the e-choke will remain closed, causing a pig-rich air/fuel mix. This is likely your problem, or contributing to it.

Matt
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post #12 of 136 Old 08-09-2019, 08:21 AM
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First go get a service manual. Read it.
Second. Where did this engine come from, was it rebuilt?
Third. Basics. Is the timing set correctly. Have you started with the engine at top dead center when the distributor was put in? Are the wires on the right plugs?
Go get a new set of plugs. If you broke a couple, you might have cracked the white porcelaiin insulator on others. Use a plug socket with foam liner.
Read the manual.
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post #13 of 136 Old 08-09-2019, 08:28 AM Thread Starter
garet.friedrich
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt1981CJ7 View Post
Yes, show us the spark plugs, please. They will provide clues to whether your problem is air/fuel related, or something else.

Matt
I'll get a picture over lunch. If memory serves best though they have been pretty clean every time I have checked.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt1981CJ7 View Post
Without power to it, the e-choke will remain closed, causing a pig-rich air/fuel mix. This is likely your problem, or contributing to it.

Matt
I'll try to get power going to it. It does always open while it's running though....

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post #14 of 136 Old 08-09-2019, 08:33 AM
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Originally Posted by garet.friedrich View Post
I'll try to get power going to it. It does always open while it's running though....

Open right up until you press down on the go pedal and then it is likely pulling shut. You can mark the location, then loosen the screws on the adjustment cap and turn it all the way to the '-' side and the spring will hold the choke open.

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post #15 of 136 Old 08-09-2019, 11:42 AM Thread Starter
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Alright so I tried the carb cleaner over lunch. Sprayed it over every where there could possibly be a vacuum leak and it never once got the motor to rev.

Second thing I did was throw a vacuum gauge on the dist line from the carb. It read anywhere in between 9-12 ish but when I would rev it up it would drop to 0 really quick and then up to 18-20.

I then put a timing light on and messed with the timing. It was first at around 20 or degrees past TDC. I dialed it back clockwise and got it set around 5-10 right now.

I then pulled a couple of spark plugs and took pics.
Cylinder #1
plug1.jpg
Cylinder #2 Note that this one had oil on it.
plug2.jpg

So given all of this information......i think i'm looking at a bigger issue aren't I?

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