LED Dash Lights - Page 6 - JeepForum.com
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post #76 of 100 Old 02-11-2020, 09:23 AM
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Speedo blinker lights stuck on is possibly not enough resistance in the circuit. Had that issue even with an upgraded LED friendly flasher unit. I had replaced all blinker bulbs with LEDs. Ended up leaving the side marker/blinker bulbs incandescent instead of adding resistors. Fixed the problem. Not sure if you changed them all.

Every bulb in the dash was replaced.... and now I'm face palming myself. I should have simply upgraded my label lights. I feel like I need an Electrical Engineering degree at the moment to get this corrected.


So, Speedhut gauges, how tough are they to install and do they have a special going on? haha


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post #77 of 100 Old 02-11-2020, 10:05 AM
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...


So, Speedhut gauges, how tough are they to install and do they have a special going on? haha
By now you are probably up to expert level on dash work...
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post #78 of 100 Old 02-25-2020, 02:51 PM
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Hi, Gary or ANYONE; do you know if these (257 LED Bulb BA9S Base 6 LED 12V DC) bulbs were a direct TIGHT fit to the OEM gauges?
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post #79 of 100 Old 02-25-2020, 04:34 PM
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Hi, Gary or ANYONE; do you know if these (257 LED Bulb BA9S Base 6 LED 12V DC) bulbs were a direct TIGHT fit to the OEM gauges?

Hey 258,


The 257 6 LED bulbs are shallow and fit into the sockets. However, they fit in loosely for me. I never felt comfortable with them in there because the base never felt like it securely locked.



The other thing; The 6 led lights are forward facing which means that it shines the line straight into the the gauge and doesn't do it's best illuminating around the gauge.



I went with the LED that is on the far right, which is still not as perfect as the standard bulb but fires more light in more direction. It doesn't like the tach, however, because that is too shallow. I am going to try one of the bulbs on the far left for that and say screw the LED and hope to get more brightness.


The picture below has the 6 LED light 2nd in from the right compared with the 3 dash lights in the center. Far left are red bulbs I order for comparisons.
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post #80 of 100 Old 02-25-2020, 04:52 PM
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Hey 258,


The 257 6 LED bulbs are shallow and fit into the sockets. However, they fit in loosely for me. I never felt comfortable with them in there because the base never felt like it securely locked.



The other thing; The 6 led lights are forward facing which means that it shines the line straight into the the gauge and doesn't do it's best illuminating around the gauge.



I went with the LED that is on the far right, which is still not as perfect as the standard bulb but fires more light in more direction. It doesn't like the tach, however, because that is too shallow. I am going to try one of the bulbs on the far left for that and say screw the LED and hope to get more brightness.


The picture below has the 6 LED light 2nd in from the right compared with the 3 dash lights in the center. Far left are red bulbs I order for comparisons.

Thanks, just what I needed to see. I currently have the CENTER BULB and that is bright but its too long. I found an Inverted LED that projects light outward. Going to try those as well to see if there is a difference. I don't light the BRIGHT WHITE look of a dash but these inverted come in WARM WHITE. Something about the warm that makes it feel more nostalgic. Here is the bulb.
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post #81 of 100 Old 02-25-2020, 05:27 PM
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Thanks, just what I needed to see. I currently have the CENTER BULB and that is bright but its too long. I found an Inverted LED that projects light outward. Going to try those as well to see if there is a difference. I don't light the BRIGHT WHITE look of a dash but these inverted come in WARM WHITE. Something about the warm that makes it feel more nostalgic. Here is the bulb.

Do you have a link to that bulb?


I'm going with the all red to take me back to my Audi days and feel a bit cooler driving at night. haha


Oh, the clock and tach SUCK for upgrading lights because they have so much mechanical crap in them that it drowns out the light a bit.


I may have to go with the white lights or the warm light so that I can get more brightness. We'll see.

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post #82 of 100 Old 02-25-2020, 05:35 PM
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"Do you have a link to that bulb?"
https://www.ebay.com/itm/20030202923...84.m1436.l2649

Check these out . . . pricey but OEM fit and they have in RED. Exact replacement but LED.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/33326893716...84.m1436.l2649

On these, my thinking is: ???
- 5 Warm White (Volt, Oil, 3X Speedometer) and . . . 5 Bright White (2X Turn Signals, High beams, Brake and 4WD) )
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post #83 of 100 Old 02-25-2020, 10:13 PM
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Whelp, I think I just wasted a lot of money. haha I've got the reds in place and they suck for the clock/tach, but the standard bright white LEDs will show up fine. Looks too far off from the red gauges and I'll likely just do all white LEDs now. Damn.... damn damn. So much money wasted and left-over LEDs now.
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post #84 of 100 Old 02-26-2020, 07:54 AM
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I do like the white LED's better myself.

Maybe you need to put in those tricolor LED's and select your own color.


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post #85 of 100 Old 05-18-2020, 11:47 PM
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hey guys.... so I'm tinkering around with some options on LEDs to upgrade the indicator lamps. I'm also thinking I want to try to get a "switch on" indication out of some of these as well.

I've configured a pair of blue LEDs in series with a PWM dimmer to control their brightness and then added a pair or bright white LEDs that would come on at full power when the associated switch is powered on. This is a test set up using an old lamp housing that I cannibalized to test with.

thoughts?
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post #86 of 100 Old 05-18-2020, 11:56 PM
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incidentally.... I wonder if anyone has tried to make custom labels for these indicator lamps???

I'm building a (6) switch panel to mount to the bottom of the dash for auxiliary lighting... and to carry the styling queues from the original dash design, I'm using push/pull toggle switches and plan to take a set of these lamps and modify the label to match my switch requirements... (fog, winch, rear, Fr Flood etc).. I'm thinking my best bet is to use the labels from the new set, sand off the black and use vinyl stickers as a mask to repaint them.... anyone have any other ideas on how I could replicate the style of these indicator lamps easily?
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post #87 of 100 Old 05-19-2020, 04:06 AM
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With the OEM ones you could just remove the mask. And put in a new one.
You would not have to sand any black off.

You could print the new label design on a laser printer using the clear plastic sheets they use to use for overhead projectors.


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post #88 of 100 Old 05-19-2020, 07:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uw91 View Post
Whelp, I think I just wasted a lot of money. haha I've got the reds in place and they suck for the clock/tach, but the standard bright white LEDs will show up fine. Looks too far off from the red gauges and I'll likely just do all white LEDs now. Damn.... damn damn. So much money wasted and left-over LEDs now.
uw91 - What LED did you use for the Tach and clock? You are getting much more brightness that what I have in mine currently. I ask because I bought mine at superbright leds.com too. But the clock has only a small space to fit a bulb and mine isn't that bright. So wondering what you exactly put in there ...is it the 6000k?

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post #89 of 100 Old 05-19-2020, 05:35 PM
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hey... another thought that occurred to me....for anyone that wired their own LEDS using raw bulbs and resistors.... did you have any issues with the change from 12V battery voltage to 14V when the alternator is up to speed? did you account for the voltage uplift in your resistor selection? I've been performing my testing by using a 12V power supply... but I can't help but wonder if moving to alternator power at 14V will blow out half of my LEDS... I guess I need to take my test circuits and plug them into my Wrangler (actual working vehicle).
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post #90 of 100 Old 05-19-2020, 08:29 PM
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hey... another thought that occurred to me....for anyone that wired their own LEDS using raw bulbs and resistors.... did you have any issues with the change from 12V battery voltage to 14V when the alternator is up to speed? did you account for the voltage uplift in your resistor selection? I've been performing my testing by using a 12V power supply... but I can't help but wonder if moving to alternator power at 14V will blow out half of my LEDS... I guess I need to take my test circuits and plug them into my Wrangler (actual working vehicle).

Lets skip the forward voltage drop, PWM control and all that stuff for the moment.

Look at the specs on the LED.

Say one in particular has a typical Forward Current of 10 mA or .010 Amps and Maximum Forward Current at 50 mA.
You can find this info on a spec sheet. Digikey has all the info on each LED they sell as do other places.

E=Volts
R=Resistance
I=Current

To figure out what size resistor for 12 volt you would use R=E/I or 12/.010 or around 1200 Ohms to limit your current.

So now the voltage increases by 2 volts, what is the current now? I=E/R or 14/1200 = or 0.012 Amps. Just an increase of 0.002 amps or 2 mA. You are still well below the 50 mA limit.

What is the maximum Voltage well E=I*R so 0.050*1200= 60 Volts maximum.

And now we went completely through Ohm law. E=IR, I=E/R and R=E/I

It get's more interesting using PWM control, then the specs change. Typical forward current can reach .050mA if Duty cycle is 10% at 1kHz

Oh, What watt size resistor? well Watts=I^2R so .010^2*1200 = 0.001*1200 = 0.12 watts. So you can go easily with a 1/4 watt resistor.

Oh, use 1 resistor per LED.


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