LED Dash Lights - Page 3 - JeepForum.com
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post #31 of 100 Old 04-28-2017, 06:07 PM
lugnut28
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Originally Posted by 2Xtreme View Post
Thanks for the great write-up!

Simple and effectiveÖ.



I'm definitely putting this on the list of projects to do (after the higher-prioirty projects).



One issue I can see I will have is that some of my oem bulb 'sockets' have been broken off by the PO.



Does anyone know of a good source for these?


The only place I've found some like the originals is from American Autowire


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post #32 of 100 Old 05-21-2017, 01:47 PM
BigMac1979
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Garyr2138, Colt44 - Thanks for the tips. Just finished my dash and they are a marked difference. But....now my Brake light on the dash is staying on so another gremlin to find I guess. It hasn't been on in the year since I bought the jeep so I'm guessing the OEM bulb was just burned out. Checked the parking break and that's not it, unplugged/cleaned the plug to the proportioning valve and that did nothing, oh well. Again, thanks for all the pointers!

EDIT: PO had the Brake and the 4WheelDrive lights switched in the back of the speedo. Brake light works fine in the dash, 4WheelDrive light stays on when the lights are turned on......hmmmm, still a gremlin to find.
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post #33 of 100 Old 03-31-2018, 09:29 AM
brilliancenp
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Thank you so much for this! I just bought a 1979 CJ7 about 2 weeks ago. While I wait for my buddy's garage to open up so we can start taking it apart I figured I could do this modification on my own in the meantime. Parts are ordered, and now I wait...

Thanks again!
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post #34 of 100 Old 04-02-2018, 02:42 PM
Shawn84CJ7
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This is great. thanks for the write up, and the info for where to find the LEDs. my speedo guage is so dim! adding this to the list of what to update next.

Orange '84 CJ-7 with AMC 360, Holley 650, TF999, Dana 300, 2.5" BDS, PSC box, 33x12.50 AT KO2s
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post #35 of 100 Old 04-03-2018, 07:49 AM
cdt540
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I just finished installing the Speedhut speedo and tach and now I am doing the LED upgrade on the indicators. I bought new indicators then did the LED swap. In the pick you can see the difference between the LED and the originals. Both the LED and the originals appear a bit brighter than they actual are.
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post #36 of 100 Old 04-09-2018, 10:24 AM
brilliancenp
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I just finished this modification this weekend! Great and easy upgrade. The gauge lights are still dim even with the LED replacements. I ordered some dimmable LED light strips from superbrightleds.com and I am going to try to disassemble the gauges and put a ring around the inside near the front and see how that goes. I will post pics when I am finished if anyone is interested.

Oh and I'm sure you guys can figure it out, but when trying to screw in the indicator lights, or it just came that way, one of the notches on the bulb that locks it in place got pushed in. I simply soldered a bead where it was pushed in and it worked great!
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post #37 of 100 Old 04-14-2018, 07:09 PM
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Thanks, well done. Just enough eye-candy to get all my dash lights working again.
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post #38 of 100 Old 04-15-2018, 05:21 AM
PottsyCJ5
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I have zero working lights on my dash right now and was going to start by checking the bulbs. I might just order some of these. I appreciate the right up. I currently have a clip on flashlight on my stick shift because it was freaky dark in the Jeep at nigh.


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post #39 of 100 Old 04-15-2018, 03:13 PM
DaveMueller
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PottsyCJ5 View Post
I have zero working lights on my dash right now and was going to start by checking the bulbs.
I think the indicators are grounded through the headlight switch. Orange is for illumination, I think the ground is black. They depend on a good mechanical ground from the switch to the dash. Start there, it's the only thing they all have in common.

FYI, to remove the knob, pull it all the way out, then there's a little button on the top of the switch that you depress to remove the knob and shaft. Once you get the switch out of the dash, push the shaft back in to shut the lights off.
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post #40 of 100 Old 04-15-2018, 04:09 PM
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Thanks, Dave. I should have clarified when I said I had zero lights... I meant zero running lights. None of the indicator lights for the switches work, and the Speedometer illumination does not work either. The only interior lights that work are turn signal indicators and the high beam on indicator. So when cruising st night the dash is pitch black.

Thats really helpful about the orange being for illumination. While working on a brake light issue last night I found an orange wire with a female plug style just dangling and itís definitely hot because it bumped into a screw and blew the fuse the brake lights are on. I also have another weird issue where after
I fixed my brake lights the left turn signal indicator and front left exterior turn signals come on as well. I suspected there must be a short or a bad ground somewhere and Iíll bet that orange wire is related. Itís driving me nuts, I should probably start a separate thread about it. Sorry for hijacking.

Iím definitely going LED when I get this figured out for the longevity LED bulbs provide. Do they make direct fit replacements for the exterior lights like the orange and red side indicators or brake lights as well?


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post #41 of 100 Old 04-16-2018, 09:03 AM
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LEDs

Yes, the exterior lights are easy. Even Walmart carries those. You do run into a problem with the flasher. The old flashers depended on a large load to work, switching to leds for the exterior lights causes problems like one turn signal stuck on all the time and other weirdness. You need an electronic flasher or a load resistor if you want all leds.

I replaced my dash lights with leds. You can get an led with the same base (BA9S?). I did the illumination and the indicators with red, blue, green and yellow leds.
If you have working turn signal and high beam indicators, that reinforces what I said about the headlight switch. Start there.
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post #42 of 100 Old 04-16-2018, 06:37 PM
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The brake indicator in the speedometer is a two wire connector. There's one on the other side I think for Quadratrac. All plug in bulbs for illumination only are 1 wire and need the housing for ground. Can't remember if high beam is two wire.

The brake light switch is a big connector at the top of the pedal.

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post #43 of 100 Old 04-17-2018, 05:57 AM
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Thanks for trying to help Dave. What is the brake light indicator? Right now when I brake my right turn signal indicator comes on steady (bit blinking) as do the front turn signal lights (front and side). Is there supposed to be a light on the speedometer that lights up when I brake? I didnít think so but your post confused me a little. Or maybe you are referring to a parking brake indicator on the speedometer? (My parking brake is broken right now so hard to test that.

I am familiar with the brake light pedal switch - that is working okay now that I fixed it.

I will definitely pull out the light switch control knob and investigate how that is wired and look for the ground. Thanks for the tip. Maybe I do have a working speedometer illumination light but the switch is bad or not properly grounded. The PO skimped on his wiring repairs as I have found a few bad splices etc that I am slowly fixing as I trace things to track down my brake/turn signal problem.

Thanks again man.


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post #44 of 100 Old 04-17-2018, 06:20 AM
John Strenk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PottsyCJ5 View Post
Thanks for trying to help Dave. What is the brake light indicator? Right now when I brake my right turn signal indicator comes on steady (bit blinking) as do the front turn signal lights (front and side). Is there supposed to be a light on the speedometer that lights up when I brake? I didnít think so but your post confused me a little. Or maybe you are referring to a parking brake indicator on the speedometer? (My parking brake is broken right now so hard to test that.

I am familiar with the brake light pedal switch - that is working okay now that I fixed it.

I will definitely pull out the light switch control knob and investigate how that is wired and look for the ground. Thanks for the tip. Maybe I do have a working speedometer illumination light but the switch is bad or not properly grounded. The PO skimped on his wiring repairs as I have found a few bad splices etc that I am slowly fixing as I trace things to track down my brake/turn signal problem.

Thanks again man.


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The ground for the light switch is only for the dome light or courtesy lights under the dash. The ground on the light switch is through contact with the dash. Make sure the metal is exposed on the back of the dash were the switch passes through the dash. When dashes get painted, they usually forget this point.

The Ground for the dash lights are in a black harness, one terminal is a ring terminal that has to be grounded to the dash. Usually the post that hold the speedometer in place.

If only your right turn signal indicator comes on when braking it could be the turn signal switch part were the 4 way flasher work or the wiring is completely screwed up. Hard to say what the PO had done.

The front turn signals should be on a different circuit from the rear turn/brake signals circuit. Only time they are on the same circuit is when the turn signal switch is mover to one position or the other. Or if the emergency flasher button is engaged.

If both left and right turn signal switch is come on with the brake light, then I would say that the emergency flasher switch is pushed in. But you only have one turn signal indicator coming on when you brake.

But since it's only one, then i would say there is something messed up in the turn signal switch. Or wired wrong.
The PO may of spliced the front turn signal wire into the rear turn signal wire. That would be one explanation also.

Do your turn signals work properly?
Do both left and right turnsignal on the front come on when you brake or just one?
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post #45 of 100 Old 04-17-2018, 10:31 AM
brilliancenp
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Well I decided after this amazing mod, I would try to make the speedometer lights brighter. I put in the led bulbs but it was still so dim on mine. I also wanted it to glow red since that is the accent color of my car. To do this I wanted the lights to still be dimmable and I wanted the speedometer to be very bright if needed. I decided to go back to superbrightleds.com since doing the first modification with them went very well (I bought a dimmable, weatherproof light strip from superbrightleds.com)

I also found that having an AC to 12v DC regulated power supply that I got from amazon for like 12$ really helps. It is not necessary but made things easier to ensure my solder points were working.

First, you need to completely disassemble your speedometer. There are plenty of these tutorials out there if you don't know how. It is pretty easy and low risk. Just know if your speedometer is original, or really even if not, the needle is very fragile so be careful. Ensure you take out the gas and temp gauges from the speedometer as well.

Next, I cut 3 pieces from the led rope. There are markings on it to ensure you dont mess anything up. The "safe" cuts are 3 LED's long so you will need 1 piece of 3 LED's for the bottom and 2 x pieces of 9 LEDs long. You could do less if you dont want it to be as bright, but when you look at the pictures realize that it is not near that bright, and in person, mine is a deep red, not the glowy orange that came through in the picture. you can also experiment with how many you want in the process. Thats why I went for a longer length of LED strip for mine in case I screwed up (which I did) or wanted to lessen the number of lights used.

Next, each one of the pieces need to have the solder points beneath the weatherproof covering exposed. To do this I made a cut through the top layer of weatherproofing, ensuring it didn't go all of the way through. I then took the straight razor and got it as close to the backing as possible and pulled forward. This will peel the weatherproofing away from the backing of the strip. If you pull forward enough it should break from your original cut and come right off. If not just run the blade on the back side, matching up with the original cut through the weather stripping.

After this just solder two wires to the solder points you just exposed. I used long lengths of wire so I could decide how long they should be later. (pic 1)

I used my ac to 12v dc power supply to test and ensure I did this correctly. I would suggest even if you dont have one of these that you hook the wires up now to the car or to a 12v battery that you have around the house to make sure they come on. After you install the lights it will be very hard to fix.

With the lights all soldered and working, and everything out of the speedometer, I gently pulled back on the blue light covers that held the original lights. I did not want to take them off because I dont like breaking stuff if its not necessary. You can bend them back a bit so you can run the wires through them. Placing the light strips where they will go and then running the lights out of the closest hole where the original lights were will make this a lot easier. I then peeled the tape off of the back of the stip and installed them. The small length at the bottom between where the temp gauge and the fuel gauge go. The other two are installed starting from the middle of the top of the gauge down to the sides. This can be seen in pic 2. After the light strips are stuck where they should be I gently pulled any excess wire through the holes. Just dont pull too hard or you will pull your solder points and you will be angry (trust me!).

After that I tested everything one more time to make sure the lights were still working. (pic 3)

I then put the speedometer back together. From here I decided how long the wires should be and cut them. I put male quick connect on the 3 negative wires together and then put one each on each positive wires for a total of 4 quick connects. You could just use 1 for all 3 positive wires as well, but I dont like having unconnected wires so I used all 3. For the negative wire connection, I made sure the lengths were long enough to reach one of my newly modified bright light boxes and just smooshed it in with the negative lead on that. I then had two negative spades in the female quick connect to one of the boxes but you could just use a circle connect on the end and put it on the body somewhere. For the positive hookups, I just cut the bulb ends off the original wires, leaving enough wire on them to reuse them if needed, and put on a female quick connect to hook them up.

I wish the picture could show how it actually looks with color and not so bright but here is the final outcome

I think this mod turned out very well and thank you to OP, Garyr2138, for the inspiration. Let me know if I confused you or you have any questions. Im also sorry if this doesn't post correctly. I am new and the forum wont let me post links and pics where I want them yet.
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