LED Dash Lights - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 84 Old 05-12-2015, 05:55 PM Thread Starter
Garyr2138
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LED Dash Lights

I wanted to give back a little so I wrote up this post to cover my upgrade to all LED lights in my dash. Ok so not all of them but almost all of them. The pesky Omix TAC is sealed so I need to spend some extra time and figure out how to open her up. Anyhow, on with the show....

LEDs in the dash

Here is my write up for LEDs in the dash. I was looking around some other threads and saw bits and pieces of people's installs and got inspired to do mine. I wanted to change all of the dash indicator lights, the speedo cluster lights, the volt and oil pressure gauge and my aftermarket TAC and temp gauge.

To start here are the lights I used for the rectangular dash indicators part of the project. They are from Superbrightleds.com. The light is prewired with a resistor in it to make it 12V compatible. Here is the link to the site I got them at:http://www.superbrightleds.com/searc...ts/lw-w-12vdc/

I did find them at USLEDlightsupply.com for about $2 less but they only offer white. Which is not a problem, because I tested blue out and it made the rectangular indicators look purple. Here is a comparison, I post this only because I thought I would, the photo does not show the difference but in person with a human eye, it looks purple. Your mileage may vary but I felt white was the way to go.

So to start, here is the only shot I took of the old dash. It was kind of after I already got started but you get the idea. (Yeah I know there is already a spoiler at the bottom... one was done already, I just didn't seat it all the way in the dash hence the light bleed in the photo......


After removing the rectangular indicators, this is how I managed to get the install done. First off, remove the indicator from the dash and remove the power and ground wires from the blades on the back of the housing.


Once you get the housing out of the dash, now we remove the cover. THere are some small tabs holding it all together so just pry up two of them on one side on off it will come. Once you remove the cover, you can see the light and the two wires connected to the blades. Once you remove the cover the easiest way to get the blades out it to place the blades on a flat surface and push the entire housing down. The blades will come loose and you can remove them and the light with a pair of needlenose pliers.






In this picture you can see the housing and two pieces in the bag with the light. Ignore the big round one on the left, you only need the black piece on the right. That is the retention ring you need to hold the light in the housing.


Next, flip the plastic housing upside down and secure it in a vice. I used a ľĒ drill bit to drill a hole in the center of the base. I had to waller it out a little to accept the small housing piece that clips the LED in place.







You need to feed the light into the retention clip until is grabs the light securely. THen just feed the light retaining clip into the drilled out hole in the back of the housing like so.....


Now to connect the wires to the bladesÖ I clipped the ends of the LED light wires really short, only about two inches of wire. Strip the ends and crimp them to a small male quick disconnect. I used these, they are 22-18 gauge. I also fed a small section of heat shrink on the wires to seal them up. If I had a solder gun I would have dropped a bit on there for good measure but I donít so I just used the heat shrink.






http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-d3...0/IMAG3209.jpg

all done....


Once the heat shrink is set, place the cover back on the indicator and fold the tabs down securing it to the housing. Now you can insert it back in the slot in the dash. Be aware it makes a difference which side you put back in, the right side of the indicator slot in the dash (while looking at it) is a little wider so just be aware you donít force it in the wrong way.
Here it is ready to go back in. Red wire to orange in the dach, black to black.




Now, just repeat the process again for the other indicators and you will be set.

But wait, thereís more!!!!!

Now if you want the full LED treatment, you can replace all of the OEM style BA9S bulbs with LED BA9S bulbs. I chose to use leglights.com as my source and found there selection to be everything I needed at a really good brightness. They can be found at this link:
http://www.ledlight.com/ba9s-6-led-light.aspx

Now, I tried the 6 bulb LEDs (which I chose) and the 7 bulb LEDs they offer and settled on the 6. I didnít really see a perceivable brightness difference and the 6 bulb dimmed more consistently and it came in all the colors so it was an easy choice. I got the following number of bulbs:
Stock gauges need the following:
Speedometer:
3 white
2 Green
1 Blue
1 Red
1 Amber

Oil Pressure Gauge:
1 White

Voltmeter:
1 white

I added one for my mechanical temp gauge and one for my Oxic Tac. Although I canít figure out how to replace the Tac light yet so that is why it is the only one not changed. The housing is sealed so I just didnít feel like delving into it any further.

After that I replaced all the bulbs in the correct locations and whalaÖ it is done. Here are the results.






I didnt want to kill any braincells by running the Jeep to get the 4WD indicator on in the closed garage so you have to believe me it works. You can see it on the moving picture above! I did stop down the photo a little to cut the brightness from the camera. but you get the idea!


Daylight comparison between turn signal bulbs


SO there you go. That is it in a nutshell. They are good and bright and the only one that is a little over bright is the high beam blue. But there is no doubt hat you will not forget the high beams are one or the turn signals.

If you have any questions about it or if I completely skipped a part, let me know. Thanks again to everyone who has helped me out in the past, hope you find some use in this.

Gary


O||||||O

Year: 83 CJ7
Engine: 258, Nutter Bypass & Team Rush
Trans: T5
Front: Dana30 G2 4.10s gears
Rear: AMC20 G2 4.10 gears G2 1-piece axle
Tires: BF Goodrich T/A 33" 10.5 R15
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post #2 of 84 Old 05-12-2015, 07:37 PM
ceej7
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what a difference! good write up Gary! another upgrade for my to do list
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post #3 of 84 Old 05-14-2015, 11:08 AM
Colt44
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I know this is an old thread, but in case you're still getting notifications:

How did you finagle the LEDs to fit in the back of the speedo cluster, voltmeter, etc.?

"Let all the laws be clear, uniform and precise:
To interpret laws is almost always to corrupt them."

~ Voltaire
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post #4 of 84 Old 05-14-2015, 11:23 AM
aggiejon
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I bought the LEDs that just twist into the original light sockets from super brightness.com on my cluster. I have a custom dash so the others didn't apply to me.
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post #5 of 84 Old 05-14-2015, 04:50 PM Thread Starter
Garyr2138
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Colt44 View Post
I know this is an old thread, but in case you're still getting notifications:

How did you finagle the LEDs to fit in the back of the speedo cluster, voltmeter, etc.?
No worries Colt... this was only posted a day or so ago. As for the lights, they are OEM style ba9s bulbs and fit right in the original sockets with no mods needed. The link to where I got them is here:

http://www.ledlight.com/ba9s-6-led-light.aspx

Hope it helps!

Gary
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O||||||O

Year: 83 CJ7
Engine: 258, Nutter Bypass & Team Rush
Trans: T5
Front: Dana30 G2 4.10s gears
Rear: AMC20 G2 4.10 gears G2 1-piece axle
Tires: BF Goodrich T/A 33" 10.5 R15
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post #6 of 84 Old 05-14-2015, 05:22 PM
Pathkiller
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Are they still dimmable? I don't like a bright dash at night, I find it interferes with my vision of the road.


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post #7 of 84 Old 05-14-2015, 07:11 PM Thread Starter
Garyr2138
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pathkiller View Post
Are they still dimmable? I don't like a bright dash at night, I find it interferes with my vision of the road.
Yes, they dim so long as your dimmer is working. Mine likes to work about 75% of the time. Even with my stock bulbs in most of the time they would dim, sometimes they wouldn't. When the dimmer is playing nice, yes they dim just fine. I mentioned in the article the 6 bulb version dims more consistently than the 7 bulb version that is offered from the same company. And its good because the 7 bulb only comes in white, the 6 bulb comes in all the colors you need.

Gary

O||||||O

Year: 83 CJ7
Engine: 258, Nutter Bypass & Team Rush
Trans: T5
Front: Dana30 G2 4.10s gears
Rear: AMC20 G2 4.10 gears G2 1-piece axle
Tires: BF Goodrich T/A 33" 10.5 R15
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post #8 of 84 Old 05-16-2015, 06:03 PM
Cutlass327
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What color are the originals? Weren't they tinted by a cover or something? I'd like to keep the original color scheme going...

Rick

1978 CJ5 5.0HO/T177/D300, '86 D30/D44 WT axles, 'glass body, 31x10.5 BFG A/T, TDK galv'd frame - DD and weekend toy


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post #9 of 84 Old 05-16-2015, 06:39 PM
nmJEEPcj
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All the dash lights are green,brake is red,4x4 is amber
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post #10 of 84 Old 05-16-2015, 06:40 PM
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Brights are blue
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post #11 of 84 Old 05-30-2015, 03:21 PM
agear
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nmJEEPcj View Post
All the dash lights are green,brake is red,4x4 is amber

Because the bulb cover is like a green. If you got all green bulbs then you wouldnt be able to see the turn signal indicators. I think one should buy white and only green for the turn signals

1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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post #12 of 84 Old 05-31-2015, 06:14 PM Thread Starter
Garyr2138
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cutlass327 View Post
What color are the originals? Weren't they tinted by a cover or something? I'd like to keep the original color scheme going...
The original bulbs were all white and the colored inserts are in the speedometer housing. But, if I can get colored lights to punch up the colors a bit why not. Here are the list of lights needed for a stock setup:

Speedometer:
3 white (dial lights)
2 Green (turn signals)
1 Blue (bright lights)
1 Red (brake indicator)
1 Amber (4x4 indicator)

Oil Pressure Gauge:
1 White

Voltmeter:
1 white

As for the rectangular dash indicators, those lights are white as well, there is just a greenish blue filter that gives it that color. I used all white LEDs in those as well. The night time look is great... at least it is to me.
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O||||||O

Year: 83 CJ7
Engine: 258, Nutter Bypass & Team Rush
Trans: T5
Front: Dana30 G2 4.10s gears
Rear: AMC20 G2 4.10 gears G2 1-piece axle
Tires: BF Goodrich T/A 33" 10.5 R15
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post #13 of 84 Old 05-31-2015, 06:20 PM
Cutlass327
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Hmm. Maybe I'll switch it around a little and use amber for the turns and green for the backlights instead of white.. wouldn't be as bright with all of the night driving I do...

Rick

1978 CJ5 5.0HO/T177/D300, '86 D30/D44 WT axles, 'glass body, 31x10.5 BFG A/T, TDK galv'd frame - DD and weekend toy


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post #14 of 84 Old 06-03-2015, 04:27 PM
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I have some on the way.... Now if the 6 pt. roll cage doesn't get in the way......

The parts shop that stocks part for Skylab II will not have parts for our year/model of Jeep
We cannot accurately judge the trajectory of a speeding critter (cat, dog, sasquatch)
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post #15 of 84 Old 06-07-2015, 01:13 PM
agear
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The Ba9s from led lighting are actually pretty fragile. Ive twisted the top off like 3. Just to let you guys know

1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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