Joe's CJ-7 restomod build - 1984 - 350ci - Page 3 - JeepForum.com
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post #31 of 67 Old 04-13-2019, 09:14 PM Thread Starter
CJ7 Joe
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Next area was the crappy torque converter dust shield. The one from Novak is s plastic piece of crap and it’s universal for the th350 etc. It does not fit a 700R4 and should not be included. The best and only option is to go to a salvage yard and get an aluminum cast OEM dust cover specific for a 700R4. I also got the rods that went from the converter to the block so I mounted them up as well! I had to mount the block brackets between the block and the motor mounts. The stronger the better right? While I was at to I shifted the entire engine and tranny 1.5” towards the drivers side to help driveshaft clearance with tranny pan.

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post #32 of 67 Old 04-13-2019, 09:22 PM Thread Starter
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Next a rotated the D300 a notch per Novak instructions. Hopefully this will allow driveshaft clearance.
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post #33 of 67 Old 04-13-2019, 09:26 PM Thread Starter
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Next I wanted to seal the inside of the frame from rust. I bought 4 cans of Eastwood internal frame coating. It took all 4 can to double coat the CJ7 frame, so if your wondering how much you need I would highly recommended 4 cans. It turned out well I’m happy with the investment in it.
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post #34 of 67 Old 04-13-2019, 09:32 PM Thread Starter
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Lastly for this round of posts I was a bit paranoid about setting up the TV cable on the 700R4. I read so many people burn up their trannys quick. Being I paid a good chunk for the Novak stage 2, I decide to set her up right!

I picked up a Bowtie Overdrives TVEZ kit and mounted her up! I had to pull the pan and replace the TV spring in the tranny. But the setup is a breeze and with the carb bracket and cable it’s pretty fool proof. I’m happy with the kit although I obviously have not road tested it yet.

Next step is to install the tub!!
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post #35 of 67 Old 04-15-2019, 07:05 PM Thread Starter
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Tub on today! It’s just sitting there as I lost some of the new mount kit on the way home from buying the CJ. The po forgot to tell me they were not tightened and I didn’t check! So once home several were missing! So I have to check what I have and most likely order an entire new mount kit unfortunately. But at least I can start fit checking everything now!

I guess I’ll totally assemble this to completion then tear it back apart for paint.
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post #36 of 67 Old 04-27-2019, 06:41 PM Thread Starter
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Well like a dumb azz I realized I needed to check the ohms on the fuel sending unit. It was shot. I had to jack up the tub and then I ended pulling the tank to change out the sending unit then wash tank out with fuel and a sock on a stick lol.

Got it back together and had to bend new sending unit to get 73 ohms at empty. I made a harness and just have the wires hanging out to finish when I wire the Jeep. Also I capped off the roll over valves. In using the fuel return line on the sending unit as my vent. I think I’ll just run it up behind the filler cap and hook it to the tub next to the axle vent. I just used a nut to hold the new harness to the sending unit instead of the push on harness, but I can’t see a reason why it can’t be exposed. If you disagree please let me know why it can’t be like that.

Lastly I had to trim the heat shield on the firewall to give a tad more clearance to the engine block. It cleared well until I shifted the engine towards drivers side 1.25” and then it just barely cleared. Now it’s better but I hated cutting the tub. Everything else on the drivetrain clears the tub fine!
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C9869A52-40FF-44F5-B0EF-535A86B08F1D_1556415780100.jpg  

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post #37 of 67 Old 04-28-2019, 06:55 PM Thread Starter
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Today a little more progress. Got the tank fuel fill and fill vent hoses installed along with the original filler spout and bezel. I painted it all up and used new hoses and clamps. Also painted the little splash shield on below where the hoses connect to the tank. I used the original screws for the bezel to body temporarily because after final paint I will replace with stainless from the totally stainless kit.

The small lines coming out the wheel well are 1/4” fuel tank vent and 3/8” axle vent. I plan to hook those up behind the filler cap after I find suitable hose breather ends. Any ideas?

I installed new factory height poly tub mount kit from Daystar. Temporarily installed a couple bolts but have stainless bolts and washers I hope to install tomorrow!
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post #38 of 67 Old 04-30-2019, 10:20 PM
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That video did it for me. That 350 sounds mean with open headers. I have headers on mine, but will be changing them over to fenderwell exit headers fairly soon. The setup right now has flowmaster muffler coming off the headers. I had to remove the rear section of the exhaust when I was redoing the suspension, so the two mufflers are just dangling from the headers. Instead of having hangers mounted temporarily until I switch to fenderwell exit headers, i am going to remove the exhaust and just run it open block hugger headers for now.
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post #39 of 67 Old 05-03-2019, 09:04 AM
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Moved per request
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post #40 of 67 Old 05-03-2019, 11:01 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you John! I think the build thread is better at home here in the CJ forum! Thanks!!

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post #41 of 67 Old 05-04-2019, 09:42 AM
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CJ7 Joe, I agree with your thread being at home in the CJ Forum. I’m glad you moved it, otherwise I’d have missed it. I have nothing against the newer Jeeps, I just prefer the CJ, because that’s what I grew up with. I just read through your thread. Your CJ-7 is going to be awesome. I used to wheel with a guy that had a 1960 Willy’s CJ-5 with a 327 under the hood, that was a fun Jeep!

What color are you going with? I’m kinda partial to the Red, I think it was Sebring Red, but I’m not sure. I like that cast aluminum trans dust pan you have, I didn’t know they existed. I put a 700R4 in a 1971 Chevy short bed pickup behind a 350 back in 1994. My transmission guy built it all manual, so I didn’t need to connect it to a computer, like the more modern trucks. Anyway, the adjustability of the TV cable is almost limitless, you can make it shift the way you like it.

How does that frame interior paint get applied to the inside of the frame?

I have an aluminum LS1 bolted to a 460le from a 1998 T/A out in the garage. I’ve been considering putting it in my 1985 CJ-7. I’m also considering an AMC 360. Either way, I’ll probably end up with a V-8 in mine eventually, but for now my little 258 will soldier on.

Great thread, I’ll be watching your progress closely.

1985 CJ-7 258/auto Red paint, white Hardtop
2017 JKU SAHARA Silver paint, Black Hardtop
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post #42 of 67 Old 05-04-2019, 11:45 AM
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My apologies if I missed it already but what tire size and wheel width do you have there? I'm liking it.


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post #43 of 67 Old 05-04-2019, 11:57 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MetalMountainGoat View Post
That video did it for me. That 350 sounds mean with open headers. I have headers on mine, but will be changing them over to fenderwell exit headers fairly soon. The setup right now has flowmaster muffler coming off the headers. I had to remove the rear section of the exhaust when I was redoing the suspension, so the two mufflers are just dangling from the headers. Instead of having hangers mounted temporarily until I switch to fenderwell exit headers, i am going to remove the exhaust and just run it open block hugger headers for now.
Thank you! It does sound cool open headers but I’ll tame it down good with exhaust. I’m old lol so I just like a rumble lol. I’m going to run them in between frame and out the back.

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post #44 of 67 Old 05-04-2019, 12:03 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Axhammer View Post
CJ7 Joe, I agree with your thread being at home in the CJ Forum. I’m glad you moved it, otherwise I’d have missed it. I have nothing against the newer Jeeps, I just prefer the CJ, because that’s what I grew up with. I just read through your thread. Your CJ-7 is going to be awesome. I used to wheel with a guy that had a 1960 Willy’s CJ-5 with a 327 under the hood, that was a fun Jeep!

What color are you going with? I’m kinda partial to the Red, I think it was Sebring Red, but I’m not sure. I like that cast aluminum trans dust pan you have, I didn’t know they existed. I put a 700R4 in a 1971 Chevy short bed pickup behind a 350 back in 1994. My transmission guy built it all manual, so I didn’t need to connect it to a computer, like the more modern trucks. Anyway, the adjustability of the TV cable is almost limitless, you can make it shift the way you like it.

How does that frame interior paint get applied to the inside of the frame?

I have an aluminum LS1 bolted to a 460le from a 1998 T/A out in the garage. I’ve been considering putting it in my 1985 CJ-7. I’m also considering an AMC 360. Either way, I’ll probably end up with a V-8 in mine eventually, but for now my little 258 will soldier on.

Great thread, I’ll be watching your progress closely.
Thanks Axhammer! Hopefully this thread will help if the do put the LS/4L60 in! That would be a nice ride!! I do think the thread is more at home now at the CJ forum!!

Color I think I’ll go dark red I think. I really like the CJs in dark red with black trim. Only aluminum being wheels!

As for the frame internal coating, it’s sold by Eastwood and each can has a 2 foot hose with a nozzle on the end that fans the coating in a 360 degree spray. So you tape up the holes, then slide hose in, then spray as you pull. It was easier than I thought it would be. Two coats with 4 cans.

Good luck with your CJ as well!

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post #45 of 67 Old 05-04-2019, 12:06 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shawn Watson View Post
My apologies if I missed it already but what tire size and wheel width do you have there? I'm liking it.


Shawn
Hey Shawn! Thanks! The wheels are 15x10 with a 1 1/2” offset. The tires are 33x15.50-15. I’m not sure if the tires are too aggressive yet but we’ll see. Hell they’ll probably be dry rotted by the time I get this thing done LOL
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