Joe's CJ-7 restomod build - 1984 - 350ci - Page 2 - JeepForum.com
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post #16 of 67 Old 12-27-2018, 08:18 PM Thread Starter
CJ7 Joe
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Well today was a good step forward! Finally decided to take the leap forward to swapping in an automatic tranny! My good friend stopped over and helped me out and we removed the Dana300 and the SM465! Also removed the bell housing and the clutch and pressure plate!

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post #17 of 67 Old 12-28-2018, 07:00 AM
NashvilleTJ
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What auto are you planning to use?

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post #18 of 67 Old 12-28-2018, 08:41 AM Thread Starter
CJ7 Joe
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Going to go with a 700R4. I’m hoping that will be a great choice for cruising! It has a 350 sbc with 33” tires and 4:10 gears.

I do realize the front driveshaft will be close to the pan but will work that issue once I get to it. Some have had no issues so I’m hoping!

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post #19 of 67 Old 01-02-2019, 11:52 AM
EricRThompson
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Great find! Looks like all the parts are in great shape. Is that an original frame? Looks brand new.
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post #20 of 67 Old 01-03-2019, 06:55 AM Thread Starter
CJ7 Joe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EricRThompson View Post
Great find! Looks like all the parts are in great shape. Is that an original frame? Looks brand new.
It is the original frame - its solid no rust. The only issues were the tub, which actually wasn't "too bad". But since I cant do metal fab, I sold it and bought an almost rust free OEM one from the same year. The rest of the body is fine.

I ordered the 700R4 tranny and other goodies from NOVAK - so I'm excited waiting for them to come in!

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post #21 of 67 Old 01-03-2019, 02:14 PM
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Where did you find the tub?
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post #22 of 67 Old 01-03-2019, 02:53 PM
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sweet build! I will have the same running gear in mine, 350 with the 700R4. I had to do a full frame swap, then i will be ordering from Novak for the tcase adapter.

i am excited to see how your build goes!
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post #23 of 67 Old 01-03-2019, 04:46 PM Thread Starter
CJ7 Joe
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Originally Posted by EricRThompson View Post
Where did you find the tub?
The tub came from Rudy's. Post 3-7 show the tub removal and new tub purchase! Rudy happened to have a 1984 tub so I was pumped to have the correct OEM metal.

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post #24 of 67 Old 02-05-2019, 05:16 PM Thread Starter
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Today the 700R4 came in from Novak. It’s the stage 2 build. Also ordered the adapter and a new input shaft for the D300. Also a twin stick for the D300 and a Lokar 12” for the tranny. Shifter boots, tunnel cover, tranny cooler. Pretty excited to start some more work if it ever gets warm.

I think next step is pilot bearing removal and identification and ordering a new flex plate.
Attached Thumbnails
02564BC6-ECED-4C0D-8E13-82B31EB0BE46_1549412127501.jpg   4FD6CA23-4592-40AC-A1CB-C17AD757B658_1549412150983.jpg  

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post #25 of 67 Old 02-13-2019, 10:04 AM Thread Starter
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Well last night I finally got the new flex plate mounted up. It was a $60 JEGS SFI rated flex plate. Used ARP bolts and proper thread locker and torques. This thing is warped like crazy!!! Off it comes - getting shipped back to JEGS. If you ever install a new auto tranny - CHECK YOUR RUN-OUT before you mount up the tranny and ruin it!

NOVAK recommended a ATI Z-111 which is less than $20 from Advanced Auto. I guess thicker isnt always better. I'm picking up the standard duty one tonight for try two!


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post #26 of 67 Old 02-13-2019, 10:48 AM
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That's pretty crazy. Can you see the warp if you lay it on a flat surface?

87 YJ, 5.7/TH350/NP241, Custom 4 link/ Radius Arms, ADS Nitrogen Shocks, 35" Cooper STT

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post #27 of 67 Old 02-13-2019, 11:23 AM Thread Starter
CJ7 Joe
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It wasn’t too bad on the countertop. I think the stamped center part is not welded in parallel with the outer gear ring. Just a guess. It just frustrates me that money gets you crap anymore. Where is quality control on aftermarket parts?

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post #28 of 67 Old 03-20-2019, 01:48 PM Thread Starter
CJ7 Joe
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Well the 700R4 is in!! I finally got a good flywheel. It’s very flat on runout. Installed new flywheel, checked starter engagement, then I installed the 700R4. Needed 0.090 shims and longer bolts bolting the torque converter to the flywheel so I could keep the converter forward movement within spec. 3/16” is max and I was at 1/4. With the shims that brought me below 3/16”.

Next I had to swap out the Dana300 input shaft with a new Novak shaft to match the 700R4. Then the Dana300 bolted right up! It’s pretty far aft.

Driveline angles and driveshaft configurations should be interesting!
Attached Thumbnails
EE0E03A3-98B5-453C-8BA3-1D0274B99C6F_1553111127292.jpg   27C602D3-A0D8-469B-BE2E-2CB5706C2AA4_1553111140447.jpg   7322C060-4CF0-4F53-B253-5C7A8E8FFD6E_1553111154674.jpg   067E2119-D00F-45FD-A7C6-9ABB07A4A21B_1553111167341.jpg  

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post #29 of 67 Old 04-13-2019, 09:03 PM Thread Starter
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Well I have not added to the post in a bit so here are a few upgrades. First the pulleys on the 350 would not line up and it bugged me. It seemed that both the alternator and the power steering pump were further forward than the crank and water pump pulleys. I struggled with this a bit and finally decided a pulley shim kit was the best option. I shimmed out both the water pump pulley and crank pulley. Now all the belts seem to align!
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post #30 of 67 Old 04-13-2019, 09:10 PM Thread Starter
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Next step was to replace the crappy bellhousing bolts with ARP bolts! Simple swap but I really wanted ARP on this bellhousing to engine block setup. Torqued to 45 ft lbs per ARP instructions.
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