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Jim's 85 CJ7 rebuild

613K views 4K replies 198 participants last post by  Jim1611 
#1 ·
After years of owning other kinds of 4 wheel drives and always wanting a Jeep I finally bought one about 10 years ago. It was a typical rust bucket. As bad as the body was rusted the frame only had some rust in the rear cross-member area. I drove it and worked on it for about 3 years and finally decided to take everything apart and start from the ground up.

I got the frame sandblasted and painted after making repairs that need to be made. Acquired a Ford T-18 and an Advance adapter to mate it to the Dana 300. My intentions were to rebuild a 302 that came out of a 68 Mustang but I bought a 95 5.0 HO from a salvage yard. I also wanted lower gears and some kind of lockers but really didn't want to put the money into the factory axles so I bought Ford 9" front and rear housings from Currie. That's about where I stopped about 4 years ago. Since then it has been taking up room in the shop. Last year I joined this forum and that really got me interested in the Jeep again. Now I've started working on it as time and money permit.

Anyway I figured I'd start a build thread on here. Here's some pictures of what things look like back when I took it apart.
 

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#85 ·
I took some time today to make a drawing of the mount that I made for the YJ tub. Thought I'd post it on here so that somebody else would have a reference point to start from if they want to make their own frame brackets. I went with the CJ bushings so if you wanted to use YJ bushings instead the hole would need to be made bigger but the location will stay the same. I also think that 3/16' thick tubing would be more than heavy enough to make them out of. I used 1/4" thick, it's what I had.

I would also suggest that you get the tub sitting in place before tack welding them in place, that way you can be sure they line up. If they look good then weld them solid. Hope somebody finds the info useful. Lord knows I've gleaned my fair share on great information off here.
 

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#87 ·
Thanks Mike. I feel like I owe a debt to allot of people on here for all of the information that I've recieved, you being one that has provided me with a great deal in answering my questions and just by watching your thread. I plan to contribute whatever I can in hopes that it'll help somebody else. It's also posted over on the YJ tub swap thread in the CJ stickies. Besides I enjoy it!! :D
 
#88 ·
Looking good Jim, it was actually Havasu that gave me the flywheel info, so he can take the credit. Im actually going to use similar bushings from Daystar..got them for $23 on clearance at OK4wd:D They didn't come with the bolts either but I'll prolly be going with stainless too or hardened.

 
#92 ·
The tub mount looks good and I agree, it would be preferable to mount it after the tub is in place but you will have to patch some burned paint when you are finished welding.

What is next on the to do list?
Thanks Dave. I know, I hated to grind the new paint off but it's gotta be done.

I think Saturday will be an all day Jeep work day. I plan to get the tub mount tacked in place, I'll weld it later when the tub is off. Then I want to get the bushings and bolts secured so the tub is sitting where it needs to be. Then I want to start working on getting the engine, tranny and transfer where they need to be so I can make the mounts for all of that. I am thinking on dropping the transfer a couple of inches and moving the whole works forward a couple of inches from where it is now. The plan is to make the transfer crossmember and engine mounts so that I can attch a full length belly pan at some point. Lots of cutting, grinding and welding. I like it. :D
 
#93 ·
Hey guys, what is the outside and inside diameter of the body bushings?
 
#97 ·
Cool, thx, what diameter bolts?
 
#101 ·
Cool, thanks, there are no more captive body nuts on mine anymore, if the bolts didn't brake when I tried to take the body off, the channel they were in was so rusted I just cut it out, so I am going to bolt through the body floor, but wanted an idea of what diameter. Tanks for the quick responses, you help and thread have been helpful to my build!!!
 
#103 ·
there is link to my pics in my signature... still haven't figured out how to post them on the board... :)
 
#105 ·
Jim, you motivated me to figure out how to post pics, so I started a thread, thanks-Bill
 
#106 ·
Bill glad to see that you started your thread. I'm subscribed and will be watching. Looks like you're making great progress! :thumbsup:

Been working on getting the tub mounts tacked in place this morning. I used some blocks of wood between the frame brackets and tub to get everything on a solid foundation. Then I used some all-thread and secured the tub where it needs to be. Measured from the frame, rear tires, everywhere I could to make sure the tub was sitting in the best spot. Then I placed the same wood spacers between the new brackets and tub along with some all-thread screwed into the tub mounts and tightened them down.

I did have to shave a blade width off the end of one mount so it would center up with the threads in the tub. With everything looking right and secured I tacked the new brackets in place. Before anyone flames me on welding with paint in the weld area that is weldable primer. Just thought it would keep the bare metal from rusting before I get it finished.

This afternoon will be spent figuring out where to position the engine, tranny, and transfer case. Need to make some temporary supports that are not in the way of what crosmembers and mounts I want to make.
 

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#110 ·
Thanks Dave.

Yes that is a carbide tipped chop saw. It's a 12" Makita. I bought that a few years back and hardly ever use my abrasive chop saw. The blades last a very long time even with allot of use. If you ever get one though take a look at the Evolution brand, they sell them in a 14" that is supposed to be a good saw at about the same money.

Hey can one of you all explain to me how I can quote several messages in one reply? My computer skills aren't that sharp.:rofl:
 
#111 · (Edited)
In the bottom right corner there is the icon with the quotation marks... the middle one, I think. Click on it and wait for it to turn red. Then you can click on another multi-quote icon and wait for it to turn red, and so on. The last quote that you wish to click should be the "regular" (single) icon that you have been clicking. You will end up seeing all of the quotes in your post. Type your text between them. :thumbsup: From one redneck to another...

Edit: Going back and looking at the icons it is the one that looks like it has "eyes"... second from the right. Hold your cursor over it and it will say "Multi-Quote this Message". You can do that as many times as you want, but the last one should be the blue box that says "Quote".
 
#112 ·
In the bottom right corner there is the icon with the quotation marks... the middle one, I think. Click on it and wait for it to turn red. Then you can click on another multi-quote icon and wait for it to turn red, and so on. The last quote that you wish to click should be the "regular" (single) icon that you have been clicking. You will end up seeing all of the quotes in your post. Type your text between them. :thumbsup: From one redneck to another...

Edit: Going back and looking at the icons it is the one that looks like it has "eyes"... second from the right. Hold your cursor over it and it will say "Multi-Quote this Message". You can do that as many times as you want, but the last one should be the blue box that says "Quote".
Thanks for the info. redneck friend. :thumbsup: We really are and don't even have to try. :D

Hey guys I need some advice and help. I've been working at getting the engine sitting in a good location. In the pictures you can see that the housing on the tranny for the shifter is almost touching the tub. Also the back of the head is within 1/8" of the lip on the firewall. Too close in my book. Do you fellows think it'd be a good thing to cut some material out of the opening in the tub where the shifter comes through and move the engine forward about 1"-1 1/2. Right now there's 7" between the end of the water pump shaft and the radiator so I've got plenty of room there.

Thanks for the help. :thumbsup:
 

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#113 ·
Yes, move it forward and cut the tub opening for the trans and just make a custom cover for it. You also want to keep the rear drive shaft as long as possible.

Are you going to use the standard clutch set up or convert to hydraulic? If you are going to use the stock type set up make sure the bell crank going from the tub to the engine is a fairly straight shot. That should help get you close on the correct placement too.
 
#114 ·
Yes, move it forward and cut the tub opening for the trans and just make a custom cover for it. You also want to keep the rear drive shaft as long as possible.
Thanks Mike!

I will move it forward. I have also lowered the transfer case about 1 1/2" so far. I've been looking at drilling some new holes in the adapter and clocking it up. That'll come later.
 
#115 ·
Take lots of pics... I love seeing that kind of fab!!!
 
#117 ·
Got the floor board cut out so that I could move the engine forward some more and started on the mounts. Too bad the shifter is so far forward on the T-18 so that you need to cut this out. The part that bolts to the block is 2 x 2 x 1/4 angle. I plan to use some spring bushings that were extra on my new springs as part of the mount. They will fit inside 1 3/4" dia. dom tubing. I need to make some pieces that fit in the corner of the angle iron to hold the bolt that goes through the busings next. Here's some of what's done.

You guys have a great day tomorrow. :thumbsup:
 

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#121 ·
ok, less typee typee and more fabby fabby, with picture taking!!! I need motivation today, a 19 hour day monday, 10 hours of swingshift OT last night, I feel like taking the boys to school coming home and vegging on the couch... but I want to get the Jeep running!!!! uuuuuugggggggghhhhhhhhhhh motivate me!!!
 
#122 ·
More work and pics with less talk, that sounds like I'm running for some kind of office. :D

Sounds like you have lots of work to do, more Jeep money dude. Good that you have the work.

After going to bed last night and thinking about making these mounts I think I'm changing them. Do any of you lay in bed thinking about your Jeep? It's sick, I need to get this thing done!!
 
#126 ·
What is sleep???

With two *new* teenage drivers, a Dodge project, a Jeep project, 300% more work and no extra money for the increase in insurance and gas; yeah, I think about a lot at night. I am not complaining, life is good :D

Now what the heck are you changing on the motor mounts?
I want to make them different. Better I hope and I plan to have them started tonight, boy this day job sure gets in the way of Jeep work.
 
#128 ·
Here's what I changed the mounts to. The main plate is 1/2 thick x 2" x 8 1/8". The side pieces that will hold the bolt that goes through the bushing are made out of 1/4" x 2" x 2 1/4" material. The gussets are made from 1/4" material as well. I think I'll leave them tack welded till I find out if everything is going to work as it should. I don't have a set of headers that I plan to run as of yet so I guess that's something to add to the list. How they fit will determine if the mounts can stay like they are. I do know they've been a problem for others.
 

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#132 ·
Thanks guys! I love doing this stuff.

Mike I was recalling how close yours were when I was in the process of making these. The factory headers are out, they won't clear the frame on the driver's side. I like the ones that you ended up using. I've been looking through Summit and Jegs too. I haven't ruled out some of the longer tube headers either, what's your thoughts on those?

I also need to get the steering sector and shaft put in to see how that fits around it all. Also concerned with the power brake booster, which I don't have since mine was manual brakes. Not as concerned with that though since the hydraulic boosters that you can get looks like it would fit. I suppose I have kinda gotten ahead of myself but I wanted to get those mounts made up so I don't lay in bed thinking about them!
 
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