Jezebel gets new floor pans (lots of pics) - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 27 Old 03-08-2020, 12:36 PM Thread Starter
kd7oir
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Jezebel gets new floor pans (lots of pics)

So this is my first floorpan install aside from small patches. screenshot_20200308-120755_1583690917587.jpgscreenshot_20200308-120929_1583691177934.jpg
I want to share my learning experience with you guys and show you how I'm doing it steep by steep. Please ask as many questions and I'm open to suggestions too. screenshot_20200308-120944_1583691229017.jpg
A rough cut line here. I have at least 1-2 inches for trimming later on. screenshot_20200308-121038_1583692125051.jpg
Then drilled holes below the cut line so I can see underneath. I'll just connect the dots. screenshot_20200308-121226_1583692239745.jpg
The view from the same hole from underneath. screenshot_20200308-121100_1583692391113.jpgscreenshot_20200308-121136_1583692411426.jpg
A handy tool but not necessarily needed for drilling spot welds. You can just center pinch and drill with a regular drill bit and I might wind up doing that in some places.
On to measurements for the next post.
Thanks Shawn


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post #2 of 27 Old 03-08-2020, 01:13 PM Thread Starter
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These are what I consider "critical measurements in case I need them later for final fitment before I start welding. screenshot_20200308-123919_1583693100287.jpg
This is the cross brace under the seat. I measured from the bottom of the first step and it's 2" from the edge of the side panel. screenshot_20200308-123933_1583693504808.jpg
This is right after the cross brace moving towards the front at 1" and that should stay at an inch clean up the the floor bend.
screenshot_20200308-124132_1583693839352.jpg
This shouldn't be supper critical because the body mount/toe brace should fall back in the same spot but I'm taking this to double check if I have the pan in the right place. This is 10 3/4 from the center of the body mount hole (not the floating nut) to the outside edge of the side panel. screenshot_20200308-124053_1583694257365.jpg
From the back outside corner of the toe brace to the outside of the panel is 8 7/8" screenshot_20200308-124306_1583694512067.jpg
screenshot_20200308-124255_1583694565352.jpg
From the forward edge of the cross brace to the center of the body mount hole (again not the floating nut) is 20 1/8th"
And this is as far as I've gotten for now. Back to work on it and I'll show you more later on today.
Thanks Shawn
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post #3 of 27 Old 03-08-2020, 02:36 PM Thread Starter
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With some cussing, prying, and pounding, the toe brace come off. 20200308_141848_1583698928896.jpg20200308_141854_1583699311494.jpg20200308_141906_1583699457791.jpg
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post #4 of 27 Old 03-08-2020, 05:04 PM
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Am I missing something? I don't see allot of rust.


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post #5 of 27 Old 03-08-2020, 06:23 PM Thread Starter
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Am I missing something? I don't see allot of rust.
Every rib was full of rust and had lots of pinholes. Also the PO had put some steps on and the mounting points had cracked out, been brazed up and cracked out again. I didn't need to go clear the the transmission tunnel but I don't want a seem in the middle of the floor. Yes I could of used mesh and patched the ribs and pin holes but I don't want anything like that on my floors. So I got the Keyparts floor plans.
Thanks Shawn

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post #6 of 27 Old 03-08-2020, 07:06 PM Thread Starter
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Don't mind the balding bearded man lolscreenshot_20200308-182957_1583715645045.jpg
Trimming to fit. I'm planning to butt weld instead of lap welding so I'm trying to minimize gaps. screenshot_20200308-183012_1583715819702.jpgscreenshot_20200308-183030_1583715844181.jpg
Tomorrow I'll clean up the inside of the cross brace and side panels and put some weldable primer in there.
Thanks Shawn

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post #7 of 27 Old 03-08-2020, 07:20 PM
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I just finished the front floorpans on my Scrambler. To say Iím jealous youíre able to do this with the tub off of the chassis is an understatement! Nice pics and write up so far!

88 Wrangler Laredo 258-999-NP231
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82 Wagoneer 360-727-NP208
82 CJ8 Scrambler 258-t5-Dana 300

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post #8 of 27 Old 03-08-2020, 07:27 PM Thread Starter
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I just finished the front floorpans on my Scrambler. To say I’m jealous you’re able to do this with the tub off of the chassis is an understatement! Nice pics and write up so far!
I can see if the tub was still on the frame how much of a pain it would be. The Keyparts pans go clear to the firewall and I don't think I'd try to replace it all the way if I have to go around an engine and transmission.
I'm trying to get as many details as I can in the write up.
Thanks Shawn
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post #9 of 27 Old 03-08-2020, 09:14 PM
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Looks great so far. Keep it up.

its a rusty one

https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/90-yj-frame-swap-build-up-1434246/
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post #10 of 27 Old 03-09-2020, 07:43 AM Thread Starter
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Looks great so far. Keep it up.
Thank you. I hope that it's useful to someone in the end.
Shawn

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post #11 of 27 Old 03-09-2020, 08:21 AM Thread Starter
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Just found the post that helped me make my decision of what pans to buy and they helped clear up some questions I had.

Jeep Forum - CJ floor pans. https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/show....php?t=4361623

In case you were wondering Keyparts don't list pans for 5s but the 7/YJ pans are the same as 5s.
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post #12 of 27 Old 03-09-2020, 11:13 PM
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I did this to mine. It was a pain. I lap welded it. In hindsight, I wish I had of butt welded, but too late now as everything is already back together.
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post #13 of 27 Old 03-10-2020, 01:59 PM Thread Starter
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I did this to mine. It was a pain. I lap welded it. In hindsight, I wish I had of butt welded, but too late now as everything is already back together.
Butt welding fitting is a pain. I'm still working on it. Just a little bit of grinding left to go and I'll take pictures and show you some of the trouble areas. I have no idea how many times I've taken it in and out but the neighborhood of 20 or so is about right. Probably a few more times till I'm happy with the fit.
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post #14 of 27 Old 03-10-2020, 04:55 PM Thread Starter
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The fitting is finally done. screenshot_20200310-155841_1583878050418.jpg
I think the widest Gap is maybe a dimes thickness wide. screenshot_20200310-161630_1583878606061.jpg
This is one of the more difficult spots and you can see one of my reference lines. screenshot_20200310-160506_1583878784241.jpg when cutting the floor I didn't have anything to get close to the side panel so the corner got cut off at an angle. I just notched the panel for that corner.
screenshot_20200310-155909_1583879956356.jpg
I couldn't get the weld flange to touch the side panel on the inside. There was about an 1/8" gap. screenshot_20200310-163527_1583880137439.jpg
The firewall weld flange we hitting here. screenshot_20200310-163510_1583880212392.jpg
So I just took off an 1/8" off.

So those were the only modifications I had to do to the pan. I want to use as much of the panel as possible so all the trimming was done to the tub for fitting. The reference lines I mentioned earlier was put there during a test fit and showed me where material needed to be removed. I probably climbed in and out of the hole in the floor 30 times and test fit as many times too.

Doing it the way I did I figured the easiest way was to start at one end of the seem slowly work your way to the other side just removing a little bit at a time.
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post #15 of 27 Old 03-10-2020, 05:11 PM Thread Starter
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The only thing I can tell different from my pans screenshot_20200310-160446_1583880975312.jpg the mounting holes for the dimmer switch aren't there andscreenshot_20200310-160346_1583881106925.jpg
And there's a third drain hole towards the seat riser that the cross brace interferes with. I like the drain hole being there so I'll probably notch the cross brace out for the drain. screenshot_20200310-160536_1583881557755.jpg

Tools used for fitting were just a grinder and a butt load of clamps.
screenshot_20200310-160630_1583881645957.jpg
I used a chunk of angle iron to keep from distorting the side panel too.

Now I'm off to clean up the cross brace and weld flanges to put weldable primer on. Sadly I won't get to fire up the welder till next week.
Shawn

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