Jeep t5 just grinds when you put it in 1st , 2nd , and reverse - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 42 Old 08-08-2020, 12:48 PM Thread Starter
agear
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Jeep t5 just grinds when you put it in 1st , 2nd , and reverse

My friends t5 will go in all gears.. when it goes 1st,2nd or reverse however it just grinds when it s in and doesnt go anywhere. We just pulled it down and popped the cover off. I dont know what to look for. I didnt see anything that jumped out at me. I'm open to any information


1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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post #2 of 42 Old 08-09-2020, 05:27 AM Thread Starter
agear
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Bump

1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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post #3 of 42 Old 08-09-2020, 08:10 AM
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Grinds getting it there, or grinds once it's there (and while driving it?)

----JEEPFELLER
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post #4 of 42 Old 08-09-2020, 08:57 AM
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Originally Posted by agear View Post
.......We just pulled it down and popped the cover off. ........

Which top cover did you pull? Just the one for the shifter? Think to pull the main top cover you have to separate the tailstock from the case in order to get the top cover and shifting forks up and out. If you pulled the main top cover, a pic would really help. 1 and 2 are in the main case and R is back in the tailstock with along with 5. Also a pic of the shifting forks. There are a couple nylon-like fingers that snap on to the end of the forks and if they are worn/gone it could cause what you are seeing.



DSC03826 copy.jpg
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post #5 of 42 Old 08-09-2020, 11:45 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by JEEPFELLER View Post
Grinds getting it there, or grinds once it's there (and while driving it?)

----JEEPFELLER
Quote:
Originally Posted by Geek View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by agear View Post
.......We just pulled it down and popped the cover off. ........

Which top cover did you pull? Just the one for the shifter? Think to pull the main top cover you have to separate the tailstock from the case in order to get the top cover and shifting forks up and out. If you pulled the main top cover, a pic would really help. 1 and 2 are in the main case and R is back in the tailstock with along with 5. Also a pic of the shifting forks. There are a couple nylon-like fingers that snap on to the end of the forks and if they are worn/gone it could cause what you are seeing.



DSC03826 copy.jpg
Tanks fir the response. It feels like its iin gear but grinds. And this is in 1st, 2nd , and reverse. He was driving when it happened. Yes you gotta pull the tail housing to remove the top cover. We took apart the main shaft and didnt come up with anything. There was part that had really short little splines but it wanted to stay on pretty good and I think it was supposed to be that way.
Another thing I'd like to mention is the bolts to the tranny mount were broke off so the tranny was free to move left to right but I dont think that was the problem because everything would move with it.

The one idea I had was was the shifter could have been going in the detent of the shifter housing but because of endplay in the whole shaft could have been getting pushed forward instead of the slider making onto the dog teeth of the gear, engaging it. Let me see if I can get a picture of the part with the short splines

1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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post #6 of 42 Old 08-09-2020, 11:50 AM Thread Starter
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Here you go
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imagejpeg_0_1596995338686.jpg   Resized_20200809_134656_1596995352093.jpg   Resized_20200809_134718_1596995368611.jpg   Resized_20200809_134713_1596995385855.jpg  

1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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post #7 of 42 Old 08-09-2020, 12:49 PM
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I was starting to steer towards the possibility that the clutch system was not opening up the pressure plate up far enough for the clutch disk to idle freely.

Some possibilities that come to mind are linkages/ hydraulics are not pushing "full travel" to fully push the clutch arm.

Maybe something like an anchor point is loose and again, full travel cannot be achieved.

The pressure plate is beginning to fail, worn pivots etc. allowing the plate to drag on the disk.

Any situation would grind because the input shaft is still being turned by the engine.

I reckon stripped splines between the shaft and a hub might also let it grind. (Just saw your pics)

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post #8 of 42 Old 08-09-2020, 01:41 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JEEPFELLER View Post
I was starting to steer towards the possibility that the clutch system was not opening up the pressure plate up far enough for the clutch disk to idle freely.

Some possibilities that come to mind are linkages/ hydraulics are not pushing "full travel" to fully push the clutch arm.

Maybe something like an anchor point is loose and again, full travel cannot be achieved.

The pressure plate is beginning to fail, worn pivots etc. allowing the plate to drag on the disk.

Any situation would grind because the input shaft is still being turned by the engine.

I reckon stripped splines between the shaft and a hub might also let it grind. (Just saw your pics)

----JEEPFELLER
As far as the pics go now that I think about if those spoines were originally much bigger and wore down to that size if wouldnt have been as tight of fit I think it was

1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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post #9 of 42 Old 08-09-2020, 03:41 PM
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If these splines were slipping, it looks like you would see circular smearing/ galling of the metal.

Not that it's gonna help you, here's a pic of building my T-150 and installing a synchronizer.

Those splines are from two different planets!

---JEEPFELLER
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post #10 of 42 Old 08-09-2020, 08:07 PM
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The synchro hub splines appear to be very shallow, possible stripped. How does it feel when you place the hub on the mainshaft? Should be very snug and probably should require a press or be driven on with a pipe.
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post #11 of 42 Old 08-09-2020, 08:17 PM Thread Starter
agear
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Originally Posted by 80cj View Post
The synchro hub splines appear to be very shallow, possible stripped. How does it feel when you place the hub on the mainshaft? Should be very snug and probably should require a press or be driven on with a pipe.
I tried to put it back on the shaft real quick as a test and couldnt get it on by hand

1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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post #12 of 42 Old 08-09-2020, 10:50 PM
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I tried to put it back on the shaft real quick as a test and couldnt get it on by hand

Not sure where I read it but that was the hub I never removed or even moved on the main shaft for some reason. It was a "if the syncro slides over it without issue, replace the spring and ball bearing." It had to do with the placement of the hub on the main shaft - don't move it. If you could remove it by hand then it was messed up. I have done three different T5s. Two for my Jeep and one World Class version for another car so I am far from an expert compared to many here on the forum. But I took pics (mainly to keep me from messing it up) Here are a couple pics of the hub on the shaft from the rear from the Jeep version. You can't tell about the depth of the splines but I can tell you I couldn't remove it by hand and there was no slop between it and the shaft itself. Given what I read, I didn't ever put it in the press to push it off.


G
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post #13 of 42 Old 08-10-2020, 12:01 AM
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It must be slipping. Isn't that the 1-2 synchro with reverse teeth on the sleeve?
Are there metal particles on the magnet (if there is one) or in the case?
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post #14 of 42 Old 08-10-2020, 12:49 AM Thread Starter
agear
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geek View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by agear View Post
I tried to put it back on the shaft real quick as a test and couldnt get it on by hand

Not sure where I read it but that was the hub I never removed or even moved on the main shaft for some reason. It was a "if the syncro slides over it without issue, replace the spring and ball bearing." It had to do with the placement of the hub on the main shaft - don't move it. If you could remove it by hand then it was messed up. I have done three different T5s. Two for my Jeep and one World Class version for another car so I am far from an expert compared to many here on the forum. But I took pics (mainly to keep me from messing it up) Here are a couple pics of the hub on the shaft from the rear from the Jeep version. You can't tell about the depth of the splines but I can tell you I couldn't remove it by hand and there was no slop between it and the shaft itself. Given what I read, I didn't ever put it in the press to push it off.


G
I think we were able to hammer it off.We were watching the eric the car guy with paul cangalios video and going off that even though it's a little different.


Quote:
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It must be slipping. Isn't that the 1-2 synchro with reverse teeth on the sleeve?
Are there metal particles on the magnet (if there is one) or in the case?
I'm not sure . Its near the end of the main shaft . I'd have to look at the parts again. as well as for metal particles.
Bob, do you think its slipping at the hub in the picture ?

1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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post #15 of 42 Old 08-10-2020, 01:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by agear View Post
I think we were able to hammer it off.We were watching the eric the car guy with paul cangalios video and going off that even though it's a little different.




I'm not sure . Its near the end of the main shaft . I'd have to look at the parts again. as well as for metal particles.
Bob, do you think its slipping at the hub in the picture ?
I think it's slipping. Those splines in the synchro hub are worn shallow. I wouldn't put that trans back in the Jeep with that hub.
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