Jeep CJ- Lighting Upgrade Installation - Page 3 - JeepForum.com
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post #31 of 93 Old 03-02-2014, 11:03 AM
Spieg8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeffreyCharles View Post
Heh, I looked at that and thought "Hey, that looks like my kitchen table woodgrain!" :-)

Here's a shot with the wiring put together and ready to install.
I'm curious about the configuration in your photo. I assume the blue and white 3-slot plug is to connect to the back of the headlight (or to the H4 bulb to be more accurate), but what is the black 3-prong plug used for? Did you run the old wires from the light switch directly to the relays, or did you retain all the stock wiring and connectors?

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post #32 of 93 Old 03-02-2014, 11:28 AM
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Nice write-up, Matt. You got some great results from that. However, I would have liked to see the difference between the stock configuration, the new wiring with relays with the stock sealed beam headlights and then the H4's installed to see the difference between the type of bulbs, also.

I would rather have a tool I don't need, than need a tool I don't have.
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post #33 of 93 Old 03-21-2015, 02:47 AM
AZ_Chip
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Matt,

Thanks for the info. While waiting for other parts I changed out my rear running/brake/turn signal bulbs. Quite the difference. After I fixed the ground. Thanks.

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post #34 of 93 Old 03-21-2015, 03:23 PM
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I did the same thing a couple years ago but I got all the pieces from summit and just pieced it all together myself , great improvement for relatively cheap .
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post #35 of 93 Old 03-21-2015, 09:51 PM
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Wow - what a nice right up and what a difference. Nice job Matt.
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post #36 of 93 Old 12-31-2015, 09:33 PM
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Hey Matt,

What size are your inline fuses?
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post #37 of 93 Old 01-01-2016, 08:12 AM Thread Starter
Matt1981CJ7
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Good question.

I can check when I return home tomorrow.

Matt
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post #38 of 93 Old 01-01-2016, 09:50 AM
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Thatd be great. Im in the process of acquiring parts and cant seem to find a definitive answer.
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post #39 of 93 Old 01-19-2016, 02:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt1981CJ7 View Post
I should add, I definitely paid a premium for my lighting package by going thru Daniel Stern. After doing a few searches, it appears he puts a healthy markup on all the bulbs and harnesses. I also found out Daniel has the harnesses made by a company called Susquehanna Motorsports in PA., and you can buy directly from them, eliminating Daniel's markup.

Overall, I probably paid 25% more then I would have if I shopped around and pieced the package together myself.
I guess that's the price for convenience.

Aside from that, I'm very pleased with the upgrade. I took the Ol' Girl for a spin late last night and couldn't believe the improvement. It left me wondering why I didn't upgrade years ago.

Matt
With this upgrade, did you notice your Volt Meter not dropping. I know when I turn my lights ON, because they are H4's, the meter drops quite a bit.
Also, I just recently did direct power to radio, alarm and the Volt Meter does not drop at ALL until I turn on my lights. If this is the case with this upgrade, I got to finish getting it done.

So, the key; in order of install is: the FUSES > the RELAYS > the HEADLIGHTS. Good grounds. - Nothing going back to switch?
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post #40 of 93 Old 01-19-2016, 04:21 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 258 View Post
With this upgrade, did you notice your Volt Meter not dropping. I know when I turn my lights ON, because they are H4's, the meter drops quite a bit.
Also, I just recently did direct power to radio, alarm and the Volt Meter does not drop at ALL until I turn on my lights. If this is the case with this upgrade, I got to finish getting it done.

So, the key; in order of install is: the FUSES > the RELAYS > the HEADLIGHTS. Good grounds. - Nothing going back to switch?
There should not be a significant drop in your voltage gauge when you turn the headlights on with this upgrade. The reason is, the headlight switch is now powering the relays instead of powering the headlights themselves. The headlights get power directly from the battery thru the relay. That's the whole point of the upgrade.

Yes, the new wiring goes from battery to fuses to relays to headlights. The new harness plugs directly into the old headlight harness. Nothing changes from switch to headlights.

Matt


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post #41 of 93 Old 10-20-2016, 08:53 AM
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Great Job
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post #42 of 93 Old 04-12-2017, 06:34 AM
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On your diagram, you have the power wires going to the alternator. Is there any reason to connect them there? I know the wire from the batt to the alt is a common bus so the voltage should be the same, so I was just wondering if there was some advantage of connecting at the alt instead of the batt.

thanks great write up BTW


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post #43 of 93 Old 04-12-2017, 07:50 AM Thread Starter
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Duck,

Thanks for the compliment.

I don't see much difference between connecting to the battery or alternator, besides a little less wire, perhaps. Since I use the group 34/78 battery with the additional side posts, I chose to go directly to the battery for connivence sake.

Matt


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post #44 of 93 Old 04-12-2017, 11:13 PM
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Someday will do this, yet the herp rarely sees any night driving to justify time and cost. If ever after dark, we have the arb intensities and rigid bar. Helps we can access trails from back yard...

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post #45 of 93 Old 04-13-2017, 07:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt1981CJ7 View Post
Duck,

Thanks for the compliment.

I don't see much difference between connecting to the battery or alternator, besides a little less wire, perhaps. Since I use the group 34/78 battery with the additional side posts, I chose to go directly to the battery for connivence sake.

Matt
Thanks! Thats what I figured. Just wanted to make sure.


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