I am about to flip out. . .painting doors - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 38 Old 11-17-2009, 06:35 PM Thread Starter
mcurcio1989
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I am about to flip out. . .painting doors

Well its November in Ohio and its like 50 degrees i don't know why i put off finishing my doors til now but i did. This car is my dd and its just starting to get way to cold to still have the top off.

So i spent the past three days prepping them. I stripped all the old paint and got them down to bare metal. i was very thorough in prepping them.I was very careful to follow the instructions that came with the product. I spent $130 on this stuff. So i primed everything yesterday and let it all dry overnight. It looked good. So i just started laying down the color like 20 min ago and it was going on good and looked good. after starting on the second door i looked at the first and there was bubbles everywhere. The stuff was just bubbling off. I mean all of it. It looked like someone poured zip strip on it. So there goes over $100 in paint and know i have to start over. I don't even know what i'm gonna do cause i don't think i messed anything up. I have painted plenty of things before with automotive grade paint. I'm no expert but usually its satisfactory.

All of the products were rated to work at this temperature just of course longer dry times.

This is basically a rant because i am incredibly pissed of. I hate paint to begin with and now i have to start all over from square one.


Disregard everything i say

I have a dana 30 front axle and amc 20 rear if anyone is looking. Both are 3.54, drums, narrowtrack.
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post #2 of 38 Old 11-17-2009, 06:41 PM
mmerlina
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Where did you buy the paint supplies? I'd be on their doorstep first asking what the problem is..

Mike

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Remanufactured 258, ARB lockers front & rear, 4.10 Yukon gears, 35x12.5" Super Swamper SSR's, Motorcraft 2100, 4.5" Rubicon Express Extreme-Duty lift, York 210 OBA, Big Daddy steering, Tatton rear CV driveshaft, Herculined interior, TJ flares, lots of body & upholstery work
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post #3 of 38 Old 11-17-2009, 06:50 PM Thread Starter
mcurcio1989
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I bought it from a local company. I use this company whenever i paint and never had any problems. They supply dealerships and auto body shops so its high quality stuff. I'm about to just say **** it and rattle can it. I can't believe this.

We have a family friend who does this full time so I'm going to get in touch with him. I think he probably knows what hes doing cause there pretty loaded, I can never figure that out.

Disregard everything i say

I have a dana 30 front axle and amc 20 rear if anyone is looking. Both are 3.54, drums, narrowtrack.
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post #4 of 38 Old 11-17-2009, 07:43 PM
mmerlina
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Well yeah man if you bought it from a local company and paid good money for the stuff, you should take the door there and show them what happened.

I mean my family runs a local glass business and one of our customers ever had a problem with something we sold them, we'd encourage them to come back and tell us so we can get to the bottom of it and help them out.

Mike

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Remanufactured 258, ARB lockers front & rear, 4.10 Yukon gears, 35x12.5" Super Swamper SSR's, Motorcraft 2100, 4.5" Rubicon Express Extreme-Duty lift, York 210 OBA, Big Daddy steering, Tatton rear CV driveshaft, Herculined interior, TJ flares, lots of body & upholstery work
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post #5 of 38 Old 11-17-2009, 07:44 PM
mmerlina
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There is also a paint & body forum here on jeepforum.. I'm sure there are many more auto body people that hang out in there than they do here.. perhaps they'd have some better insight for you. Just a thought.

Paint and Body

Mike

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Remanufactured 258, ARB lockers front & rear, 4.10 Yukon gears, 35x12.5" Super Swamper SSR's, Motorcraft 2100, 4.5" Rubicon Express Extreme-Duty lift, York 210 OBA, Big Daddy steering, Tatton rear CV driveshaft, Herculined interior, TJ flares, lots of body & upholstery work
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post #6 of 38 Old 11-17-2009, 09:08 PM
WayneMeuir
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First question is: What kind of Primer? (Laquer, Urethane, Polyester???)
Second question is: What klind of Paint? (Laquer, Urethane, Acrylic Enamel???)
Third question is: Was it two part paint with activator, single stange, base clear, or ???

It sounds like the products were not compatable with each other and you got solvent pop.

Wayne
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post #7 of 38 Old 11-17-2009, 09:15 PM
CajunCJ
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Also did you thin the paint? I have seen the wrong thinners used and it would do that.
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post #8 of 38 Old 11-17-2009, 09:15 PM Thread Starter
mcurcio1989
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Well like i said i have used these exact same products together with good results. I am not sure as to what kind of paint or primer it is. The guy at the store basically just handed me all the stuff so. I know the primer was 2k kwik prime and the paint was omni au. It was a two part paint with and i was using the fast activator due to the weather. obviously i didn't get to the clear yet tho.

Disregard everything i say

I have a dana 30 front axle and amc 20 rear if anyone is looking. Both are 3.54, drums, narrowtrack.
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post #9 of 38 Old 11-17-2009, 09:20 PM
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Hate to say but I think you should have sprayed a test piece first before applying the paint to your door. When I'm unsure of the outcome of something I am not comfortable with or haven't done before, I always try it on a expendable test piece. Sacrificial pieces are all over my shop when it comes to powder coating, fabricating and testing the unknown.....

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post #10 of 38 Old 11-17-2009, 09:23 PM Thread Starter
mcurcio1989
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keith460 View Post
Hate to say but I think you should have sprayed a test piece first before applying the paint to your door. When I'm unsure of the outcome of something I am not comfortable with or haven't done before, I always try it on a expendable test piece. Sacrificial pieces are all over my shop when it comes to powder coating, fabricating and testing the unknown.....
Well the strange thing is i primed the hinges today at like 1 because i couldn't get to them last night. They were the first pieces i hit with color. They had dried maybe 4-5 hrs. They are absolutely fine.

And once again i had no reason to be unsure of this combo because i have already used it before. I still have the old bottles, its all the exact same stuff.

Disregard everything i say

I have a dana 30 front axle and amc 20 rear if anyone is looking. Both are 3.54, drums, narrowtrack.
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post #11 of 38 Old 11-17-2009, 09:30 PM
CajunCJ
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I'm wondering if it didn't kick over on you with the accelerator you used. 50 degrees is still pretty warm to use that stuff. We only use it in 30 degree or colder temps. First pieces shot would have been ok before the paint started to kick over.
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post #12 of 38 Old 11-17-2009, 09:39 PM
CajunCJ
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Nevermind that wouldn't be it. The gun would have started spitting small chunks out and the paint would have turned to jello in the cup.

Find a batch number on the paint see if it has a date on it. Paint does have a shelf life. You might have gotten an old batch
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post #13 of 38 Old 11-17-2009, 09:39 PM
southshore30
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were the hinges also stripped with the chemical stripper? Did you wash this stuff off or did it need to be neutralized after? Just a thought
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post #14 of 38 Old 11-17-2009, 09:43 PM Thread Starter
mcurcio1989
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I used aircraft stripper and cleaned it all off with lacquer thinner. I'm just so confused because i have used this same process and products several times before with no problems

Disregard everything i say

I have a dana 30 front axle and amc 20 rear if anyone is looking. Both are 3.54, drums, narrowtrack.
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post #15 of 38 Old 11-18-2009, 08:18 AM
Lawless_Jeep
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Sounds almost like there's moisture or oil coming from the compressor.

Jeeps are sorta like cats, but tend to have more than just nine lives.
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