Hub lockout parts? - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 16 Old 09-16-2019, 08:47 PM Thread Starter
brink2
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Hub lockout parts?

Hey guys, first off, a big thanks to all- I've been pouring through many threads so far to help breathe life back into my newly acquired CJ. Good thing- I've got it running and on the road, only to find out (in a few "oh #$&@" moments) that the front axle u joints are seized. I've ripped through hubs, spindles, axles- I ran into a broken part in one of the hub lockouts. I can't seem to find any parts catalogs online that goes through the stock hub lockouts. Anyone know a P/N or where I can get the part in the pic? #2, "bearing hub". Thanks in advance!

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post #2 of 16 Old 09-17-2019, 05:07 AM
keith460
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Have you checked out RockAuto for those parts under Locking Hub Service Kit? They have a kit for about $13.00 that may contain what you are looking for.
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post #3 of 16 Old 09-17-2019, 06:14 AM
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You might consider replacing the OEM
Hubs. I say this ecause they aren’t very strong and fail easily if you do any moderate off roading. At least that’s been my experience.

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post #4 of 16 Old 09-17-2019, 07:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keith460 View Post
Have you checked out RockAuto for those parts under Locking Hub Service Kit? They have a kit for about $13.00 that may contain what you are looking for.
Kieth,
that looks to be a BK1 kit (or it's alternative), which services the spindle bearings and seals.


I agree with Axhammer, the stock late model hubs do not have a good reputation for service and longevity.
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post #5 of 16 Old 09-17-2019, 10:44 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys- yeah the Rock Auto kit is the spindle seals and needle bearing for the axle (which I've already got ordered and on the way, along with bearings, seals, rotors, pads, etc.) It also appears the axle tube seals were non existent as well, tubes were leaking and full of rusty crud. This is turning into such a fun project. 😄 Not sure if I want to drop the dough on an aftermarket lockout kit just yet, still figuring out if the rig is still salvageable. Next on the list is addressing the tub... Both floorboards are completely gone, wheel wells and rocker panels are in rough shape, but frame isn't too bad. I just pulled a seat belt anchor right through the floor last night.
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post #6 of 16 Old 09-17-2019, 02:45 PM
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Quote:
It also appears the axle tube seals were non existent as well, tubes were leaking and full of rusty crud.

The seals are in next to the differential. You will need to remove the differential to get to them, as they are removed and replaced from inside the housing.

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post #7 of 16 Old 09-18-2019, 09:12 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
It also appears the axle tube seals were non existent as well, tubes were leaking and full of rusty crud.

The seals are in next to the differential. You will need to remove the differential to get to them, as they are removed and replaced from inside the housing.
It's a Dana 30, am I interpreting the diagram wrong? It appears the seal #14 is next to the dust cover in the attached pic. I guess I assumed it goes in the end of the tube. Looking down the tube, I don't see any seal at the differential, it looks like the bearing to me. Any guidance would be appreciated, thanks!!
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post #8 of 16 Old 09-18-2019, 09:18 AM
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This is a great rebuild from stgil, one of our members here on Jeepforum:

https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/c...art-i-1121189/

Here he is inserting the seals in the case:



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post #9 of 16 Old 09-18-2019, 10:43 AM Thread Starter
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Jeepdaddy, thanks for pointing that out, I would have surely ruined the new seals trying to hammer them into the end tubes. 😄

John, thanks for the thread link. It just goes to show- when in doubt, search Jeep forum for the answers. 😄 Looks like I'm ripping into the differential to change out leaky seals.

Bob
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post #10 of 16 Old 09-18-2019, 06:59 PM
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Make sure you mark the bearing caps so they are reinstalled on the same side and in the same orientation as they sere removed.

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post #11 of 16 Old 09-19-2019, 07:13 PM Thread Starter
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Old seals out, new seals in. Thanks all for the guidance!!!
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post #12 of 16 Old 09-20-2019, 03:46 AM
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Now that you have your differential apart, it's a good time to count the teeth on both the ring and pinion to determine your actual gear ratio. If it is factory gears, you will have either 2.73 or optional 3.31's. Counting the teeth on the pinion shows 18 and will assume the ring gear is 49 which equals 2.7222 or 2.73's. You can update your Jeeps profile while your at it.

And don't forget to lubricate your new seals and axle shaft with Vaseline before sliding them in. Don't want to take a chance on tearing your new seals.

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post #13 of 16 Old 09-20-2019, 04:37 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Keith! Definitely will do. Sorry that this thread is starting to switch gears (dad pun) to the differential, but I had a question about preload and backlash... The carrier was a complete beast to get out- I finally tried a trick of stuffing a shop rag between the carrier and the housing and rotating the pinion to get it to pop out, but it was really hung up on the driver's side even doing that trick. There were no spacers at least on the outside of the bearing- maybe there is on the inside? Trying to get it back in was a bear as well so I'm assuming there's no chance I'm getting any spacers in there to adjust preload or backlash. Do I need to worry about it? There's no real signs of wear anywhere. I guess I can just reassemble the same way it came out, and let noise be my guide?

Bob
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post #14 of 16 Old 09-20-2019, 09:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brink2 View Post
Thanks Keith! Definitely will do. Sorry that this thread is starting to switch gears (dad pun) to the differential, but I had a question about preload and backlash... The carrier was a complete beast to get out- I finally tried a trick of stuffing a shop rag between the carrier and the housing and rotating the pinion to get it to pop out, but it was really hung up on the driver's side even doing that trick. There were no spacers at least on the outside of the bearing- maybe there is on the inside? Trying to get it back in was a bear as well so I'm assuming there's no chance I'm getting any spacers in there to adjust preload or backlash. Do I need to worry about it? There's no real signs of wear anywhere. I guess I can just reassemble the same way it came out, and let noise be my guide?

Bob
The adjustment/preload shims are located between the bearing roller (cone) and diff housing. No way of getting them displaced unless you remove the cones. You did keep the bearing cups with their respective cones, right? The bearings are heavily preloaded which makes installation difficult. The trick is to cant the cups as you install the diff into the housing them tap them in the rest of the way until they're fully seated with a dead blow mallet. Actually, it takes more than a tap to get them seated but make sure they're seated before you torque the bearing caps down.
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post #15 of 16 Old 09-21-2019, 01:58 AM
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Quote:
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The carrier was a complete beast to get out- I finally tried a trick of stuffing a shop rag between the carrier and the housing and rotating the pinion to get it to pop out, but it was really hung up on the driver's side even doing that trick.
Trying to get it back in was a bear as well... Do I need to worry about it?
If you're not changing gears/carrier, you should be able to reuse the same shim pack, but forcing the carrier in/out of the case is a good way to screw things up. Using a case spreader is the "correct" way to do the job;

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