How many different flavors of the Borgeson steering shafts are there for a CJ - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 43 Old 07-14-2020, 09:20 PM Thread Starter
John Strenk
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How many different flavors of the Borgeson steering shafts are there for a CJ

I need a new shaft. Discovered the u-joints are very sloppy on mine

I was reading in some post you can get them with isolators for vibration.

Some for jeeps with body lifts, mine has a 1” body lift.

Some that allows for some slippage as the body might move around


I have power steering so that’s important. Anybody got a part number on which one you bought?

I also hear to can just buy just the u-joints and make/fix your own shaft. I wish I knew this before I tore the whole YJ column apart to put in a CJ shaft.

Also the crown heavy duty shaft is pretty good.



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post #2 of 43 Old 07-15-2020, 06:20 AM
DV915
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I installed a Chevy S-10 steering box in my CJ which required a custom steering shaft and joints. The S-10 box has a different spline size and count than the CJ steering box. I ordered the correct Borgeson joint based on the size and spline count on the S-10 steering box. I also ordered a length of collapsible steering shaft and cut it to fit my needs. The joint on the end of the steering column was also ordered based on the size and spline count but itís a common CJ joint. Itís been over ten years since I installed this so I donít have any part numbers but the Borgeson website has all the sizing details on their joints so the correct ones can be ordered.

Additionally: The collapsible shaft is extremely important, itís amazing how much flex there is between the body and the frame especially when off roading.
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post #3 of 43 Old 07-15-2020, 07:33 AM Thread Starter
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So the shaft will slip as the body moves around. That's good to know.


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post #4 of 43 Old 07-15-2020, 07:34 AM
verreaul
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I bought the Borgeson 1976-1986 CJ, Power Steering, with Vibration Reducer #000920 for my 1976 CJ7. Originally I had a 3" body lift which was replaced with a 1" body lift. The shaft has several inches of adjustment. Paid $195 on Amazon in 2017. I can't tell you if the vibration damper makes any difference because all my steering components were sloppy before the upgrade but I am very happy with the results. Very solid construction.
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post #5 of 43 Old 07-15-2020, 10:36 AM
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I got the #000920 It extends pretty far if my memory is correct. I'm sure it is made to fit other vehicles. Yes it moves as you go down the road unlike the stock one with the nylon pins. The instructions want you to grind/file a flat spot on your shafts for the set screws. not sure if i did or if i lined them up with the flat spots already on the shafts. Basically, if you ever want to remove it, your not screwing up the splines and have to beat it off. Anyways, really nice shaft and a major upgrade from stock. The little rubber boot ain't the greatest but i guess keeps moisture out for as long as it lasts. Got mine off Amazon. it's a around $270 right now if ya have prime... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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post #6 of 43 Old 07-15-2020, 12:34 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrPeter63 View Post
I got the #000920 It extends pretty far if my memory is correct. I'm sure it is made to fit other vehicles. Yes it moves as you go down the road unlike the stock one with the nylon pins. The instructions want you to grind/file a flat spot on your shafts for the set screws. not sure if i did or if i lined them up with the flat spots already on the shafts. Basically, if you ever want to remove it, your not screwing up the splines and have to beat it off. Anyways, really nice shaft and a major upgrade from stock. The little rubber boot ain't the greatest but i guess keeps moisture out for as long as it lasts. Got mine off Amazon. it's a around $270 right now if ya have prime... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
So the u-joints are not splined to fit on the column and pump?
They just are held in place with the set screws?


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post #7 of 43 Old 07-15-2020, 12:57 PM
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They are splined, but use a set screw instead of the pinch bolt. You grind a few splines flat so the set screw in the new shaft can hold in place. Also so you don't toghten it against the spline and mar them up and then the shaft won't come back off.

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post #8 of 43 Old 07-15-2020, 01:10 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fourtrail View Post
They are splined, but use a set screw instead of the pinch bolt. You grind a few splines flat so the set screw in the new shaft can hold in place. Also so you don't tighten it against the spline and mar them up and then the shaft won't come back off.
All right then. I just ordered one.

Are they a cup or pointed set screw? I prefer the cup style myself.

I'll grind some flats on the shafts. Don't know how I'll get to the steering box to do that though...


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post #9 of 43 Old 07-15-2020, 01:39 PM
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With my Flaming Rivers shaft I was able to use the notches in the column shaft and the existing spot on the H1 box. I do not like to modify stuff like that because the next time something needs to be done, things get worse. YMMV

The Flaming Rivers shaft that I purchased used was there universal sliding shaft that had really course splines on the whole shaft and a spring to reduce vibrations. It was suppose to be very expensive new but I got it for about 1/5 of the new price and was able to shorten it because it was too long for a stock body height and stock steering box location. I do not know if they make the shaft style I have anymore.
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post #10 of 43 Old 07-15-2020, 05:11 PM
southtx
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I just installed a Borgeson on mine a couple days ago. It had the cup type allen head set screws and get locked down with a nut. I used a dremel tool with a cutoff wheel to get to the shafts to grind the flats.
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post #11 of 43 Old 07-15-2020, 05:43 PM
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Doesn't the steering box input shaft have a flat spot on it already?

Or are you all referring to grinding the bottom of the column?
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post #12 of 43 Old 07-15-2020, 06:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CSP View Post
Doesn't the steering box input shaft have a flat spot on it already?

Or are you all referring to grinding the bottom of the column?
I upgraded from manual steering to an aftermarket power steering. I was told initially that i would have to grind a flat on the upper steering column shaft but not the lower gearbox shaft. My particular gearbox had a flat spot but it was too far forward so i decided to grind a new spot further back on the shaft in order to get it all the way on, to the depth recommended on the Borgeson directions. It may have worked as is but there was a lot of thread left. My IDIDIT column was even further off but I hear thats expected.
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post #13 of 43 Old 07-17-2020, 01:03 PM Thread Starter
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Well I got the shaft today.

That was fast.

Looks like I may have to cut a bit off to squeeze it on.
I couldn't figure out why because it's shorter than the one I pulled out.

img_0829.jpg

Then i looked at the length of the tilt column and saw it's longer than the non-tilt column.

img_0831.jpg

How much movement should I allow for when i cut some off the shaft?

Just enough to slip it on?


Still not sure why you can't use the flats already cut into the steering box and steering column.


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post #14 of 43 Old 07-17-2020, 02:09 PM
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I would just cut off enough to get it on. It really shouldn't move that much. I just went and looked at mine, it appears that it moves about 1/4 inch if that.

Also, i know i used the flats that were on my H1 box i put on a few months ago, as far as the column, i want to say i did grind on it, but really don't remember. That was like two years ago. I don't see why you couldn't use the flat on the column as long as the knuckle slides on it far enough..
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post #15 of 43 Old 07-17-2020, 03:49 PM
DV915
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Instead of cutting the shaft canít you just push the male shaft farther into the female shaft?
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