Help on replacement brake booster - keeping it stock..... - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 18 Old 11-30-2019, 07:22 PM Thread Starter
Billy22Bob
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Help on replacement brake booster - keeping it stock.....

So I need to replace my booster - it hisses when I depress the pedal = failed diaphragm.
Looked at YJ conversion but have decided, if I can I would like to keep it "stock".

See photo of existing
Its base plate seems very close to the firewall - unlike the many options out there for replacement
I have found a reasonably priced 82-86 booster 16718.01
My vehicle is a 79 (78my) but has since had a 350 implanted

I still havent written off a yj conversion - but that will bring a whole lot of other issues.

I do like the look of the one at ebay (item 350519292677) - but the base is all different.

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Dsc01033sml.jpg   IMAG0374.jpg  

Last edited by Billy22Bob; 11-30-2019 at 08:17 PM. Reason: added photo
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post #2 of 18 Old 11-30-2019, 07:54 PM
popascj7
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First thing is to fill out your profile so we can help you better.
It looks like you don't have a stock brake system, is the picture backwards or do you have a right hand drive.
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post #3 of 18 Old 11-30-2019, 09:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Billy22Bob View Post
My vehicle is a 79 (78my).
I’m confused by your vehicle being a ‘79 but at the same time a ‘78?

It does look like you have right hand drive. Do you have a DJ?
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post #4 of 18 Old 12-01-2019, 03:02 AM Thread Starter
Billy22Bob
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Apologies - yes - RHD Australia
78my is year of manufacture - but its sold as a 79.
The hinge bolt you can see is because the hood rolls forward
Motor was swapped out for a 350 20-30 years ago
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post #5 of 18 Old 12-01-2019, 05:13 AM
keith460
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If that is original RHD version for brake booster and bracket, they are way different then the USA LHD versions. But here in the States, you can get your brake boosters rebuilt to retain originality. Of course it couldn't be a daily driver vehicle due to the turn around time of about 6 weeks or more.

Here's OEM LHD booster with bracket:
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Brake Booster (4).jpg   Brake Booster (12).jpg  

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post #6 of 18 Old 12-01-2019, 12:58 PM
OrangeCJ-5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Billy22Bob View Post
Apologies - yes - RHD Australia
78my is year of manufacture - but its sold as a 79.
Generally the new model year comes out in the Fall so a ‘79 would come out starting sometime around September.
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post #7 of 18 Old 12-01-2019, 05:55 PM Thread Starter
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Its possible it doesnt come from a Jeep - vehicle was restored in 98 including gal chassis

I'll attempte to partially dismantle today to get more info
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post #8 of 18 Old 12-01-2019, 09:49 PM
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I have RHD and the brake setup is identical to LHD, just the pipes are run up and around the top of the bulkhead to get from the Combination Valve to the master cylinder.

You should have the bracket to connect the pedal to the back of teh booster (as shown in keith460's photo and item 2 below). They are available from Crown and contain a pivot so the force you apply at the pedal is off centre but then is centred on the booster. If you leave this out and do not pump straight it can lead to a problem with the booster internals (ask me how I know) as the force is aimed at the side of the booster.

The master cylinder looks like USA but the cover does not shout CJ. It may be off something else. By itself this is not a major issue as it is a common swap to put on a master with a different bore size (you said you wanted stock) and these parts have been used /swapped in millions of US made vehicles. As it has different size reservoirs it is probably for disc front / drum rear.

The booster I doubt is a CJ booster. A common mod is change to a dual diaphragm 8" or 9" booster as seen in early Wranglers but this is a single diaphragm. You have plenty of room to move that master cylinder forwards a bit further and get in the bracket and dual booster. You should be thinking about new lines anyway when you install the bracket

Not seen your combination valve, have you got one? vital for getting braking right. It is down on the frame rail on passenger side, below where the US had the master cylinder.

You may find that you had manual brakes and someone has bolted on a booster and master cylinder without understanding how to do the install. The entire assembly is about 3 1/2" shorter than on a CJ and is partly buried in the firewall. The lines are new but not bent to factory spec. The MC and combination valve etc use US SAE double flared fittings, the mechanics here chew them up with metric wrenches and scratch their heads as they are not bubble flared metric so I have a stock of SAE fittings for brake work and a 3/16" double flare tool. If you do any brake work, insist they use the right fittings and tools.

At least prices are low for fixing all this with stock cj stuff:

Bracket - $50-$60, booster $150, new M/C $50. Combination Valve $60 if you do not have one. 3/16" cupronickel line and SAE fittings, enough for whole CJ, $25. Shipping and taxes will add 50%+ I suspect to Aus, they do here.
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pedal brake.jpg   power brakes.jpg   brake system.jpg  
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post #9 of 18 Old 12-02-2019, 12:39 AM
whollsee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Billy22Bob View Post
Its possible it doesnt come from a Jeep - vehicle was restored in 98 including gal chassis

I'll attempte to partially dismantle today to get more info
Yep, that ain’t the Oz unit I know. Yours looks like the PBR/ Bendix jobby that was used in Holdens- specifically Toranas. Fairly popular bolt on replacement on CJs down here.

When ever I hear the word 'Jeep' I reach for my wallet.
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post #10 of 18 Old 12-02-2019, 09:30 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whollsee View Post
Yep, that ain’t the Oz unit I know. Yours looks like the PBR/ Bendix jobby that was used in Holdens- specifically Toranas. Fairly popular bolt on replacement on CJs down here.
After doing some lengthy sleuthing today and scratching away for Part numbers etc...I have determined...
Booster is an Ozzie PBR VH279 (6 F 7 N) Unit and the cylinder is a PBR 7210 unit.
It would seem they are ex LH/LX/UC Holden Toranas here in OZ and concurs with your comment
Unfortunately they are also going for a song....$730AUD (about 500USD) - would be a drop in fit though - no problems

I could possibly get an alternate unit and stuff around trying to make it fit - hey maybe even a nice chrome one and proportioning valve all in one for $440 AUD.
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post #11 of 18 Old 12-02-2019, 10:06 PM Thread Starter
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Why did people "replace" their OEMs?
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post #12 of 18 Old 12-03-2019, 02:44 AM
whollsee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Billy22Bob View Post
After doing some lengthy sleuthing today and scratching away for Part numbers etc...I have determined...
Booster is an Ozzie PBR VH279 (6 F 7 N) Unit and the cylinder is a PBR 7210 unit.
It would seem they are ex LH/LX/UC Holden Toranas here in OZ and concurs with your comment
Unfortunately they are also going for a song....$730AUD (about 500USD) - would be a drop in fit though - no problems

I could possibly get an alternate unit and stuff around trying to make it fit - hey maybe even a nice chrome one and proportioning valve all in one for $440 AUD.
I dropped a GM 8” dual diaphragm universal in mine when the original started leaking. $100 + a bracket because I didn’t want to drill the OEM bracket to fit it (I keep all my OEM parts). I reckon the universal would drop right into what you have now and keep your MC...no bracket required...or get one if you really feel the need.

Here’s a chromey up for auction on eBay Oz...check your stud spacing of course.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/7-CHROME...8AAOSwHnFVsuEk

When ever I hear the word 'Jeep' I reach for my wallet.
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post #13 of 18 Old 12-03-2019, 01:44 PM Thread Starter
Billy22Bob
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Thanks!
With the Chrome unit - a) it doesnt have the same bent end and b) I cant tell if it has the appropriate exit shaft.
With a) I can only think you can thread on an adaptor - but b) if its wrong - it may be hard to fix given the shaft eminates from the internals

At one stage I thought about getting a new rubber diaphragm and repairing it myself - but others suggest you need some special tools to do the job.
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post #14 of 18 Old 12-03-2019, 03:05 PM
whollsee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Billy22Bob View Post
Thanks!
With the Chrome unit - a) it doesnt have the same bent end and b) I cant tell if it has the appropriate exit shaft.
With a) I can only think you can thread on an adaptor - but b) if its wrong - it may be hard to fix given the shaft eminates from the internals

At one stage I thought about getting a new rubber diaphragm and repairing it myself - but others suggest you need some special tools to do the job.
thread on extension/adapter - yes. Some units come with them.

When ever I hear the word 'Jeep' I reach for my wallet.
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post #15 of 18 Old 12-03-2019, 06:42 PM Thread Starter
Billy22Bob
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Well - surprisingly I found a VH279+ cylinder from an LX Torana on gumtree within half an hour of here....untested - but 100 incl. MC - pickup this arvy....
Will report back soon - thanks all! The past 24hours of reasearch has allowed what I think is a reasonably educated and hopefully very simple, cost effective result - but will see.
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