Help With Nutter Bypass and Vacuum Hoses on '85 CJ7 4.2L - Page 3 - JeepForum.com
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post #31 of 38 Old 10-14-2020, 01:39 PM Thread Starter
j76bravo
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Thank you everyone for the guidance. I pulled the computer and the harness. I wired the 10ga red to the relay, and the red w/trim is wired to the oil switch. It was nerve racking at first, but with everyoneís help, I was able to ease through it. Next mission is the vacuum hoses. Do I follow whatís be laid out already? Or are there anything else I need to do? I included some updated photos of the engine bay. Iím just waiting for the new valve cover to come in. Thanks again!

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post #32 of 38 Old 10-14-2020, 02:22 PM
uptillnow
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You may run into trouble with your current fuel filter orientation.

Rotate it 90 degrees, so the return to the tank hose is at the 12 o'clock position.

Works great and lasts a long time
UTN
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post #33 of 38 Old 10-14-2020, 02:36 PM
John Strenk
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Also might want to make sure the Power Steering hoses and pipes are not rubbing on the intake manifold.

You could loosen the fitting and rotate it a little further away.

I would also hook the heater hoses buck up to the intake manifold. It helps a lot.


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post #34 of 38 Old 10-15-2020, 07:57 AM
Hoover7
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I agree with John about reconnecting the heater hoses to the intake manifold. Your manifold heater won 't have to work as long or hard, and your intake will be a uniform temperature, which is a good thing for fuel/air mixtures entering the cylinders.

With respect to vacuum line routing, it depends on what vacuum devices you are planning to utilize. The PVC system and the distributor advance are pretty much essential. And from your images, the EGR is still there - are you planning to keep it in service? Is the charcoal canister also there? That another useful system, IMO. Also, if running the oem air cleaner, there are potentially two vacuum motors that operate flaps which control air flow to the carb.


Hoover

82 CJ7 Laredo Ltd, 258, T5, frame off resto/rebuild planned
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post #35 of 38 Old 10-15-2020, 07:09 PM Thread Starter
j76bravo
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Yes I'm going to keep the EGR valve, along with the purge canister. I wouldn't mind up grading the air cleaner system, could I just purchase any round cleaner? I think it would dress the engine up nicely. But at the moment, I just have the stock cleaner system, which I'm going to disable the flaps inside it.


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I agree with John about reconnecting the heater hoses to the intake manifold. Your manifold heater won 't have to work as long or hard, and your intake will be a uniform temperature, which is a good thing for fuel/air mixtures entering the cylinders.

With respect to vacuum line routing, it depends on what vacuum devices you are planning to utilize. The PVC system and the distributor advance are pretty much essential. And from your images, the EGR is still there - are you planning to keep it in service? Is the charcoal canister also there? That another useful system, IMO. Also, if running the oem air cleaner, there are potentially two vacuum motors that operate flaps which control air flow to the carb.


Hoover
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post #36 of 38 Old 10-15-2020, 07:48 PM
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To be quite honest, the stock air-cleaner is much more effective and a better air cleaner than most aftermarket round models. I'd encourage you to rethink exchanging it for a round one. Furthermore, the flaps inside, if operational, are another good item to have. When properly configured, they redirect warm air to the carb when the engine is cold, helping improve volatization of fuel, then they close when the engine warms, allowing cold air into the carb, which is also helpful in getting more fuel to the cylinders.

Post some pictures of your air cleaner. If it's stock, and is the correct one for the power brake setup, they command a high price on ebay. Do a search! I can tell you, they are expensive because CJ owners (like me) who ditched them want them back, and have to pay a big price to get one.

I agree that, if operational, keeping the EGR and vapor canister would be a wise move as well. Now that your rig is nuttered, and you've removed all the associated computer controlled accessories, routing your vacuum lines should be relatively easy.

Hoover
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post #37 of 38 Old 10-17-2020, 08:41 PM Thread Starter
j76bravo
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Hereís a few photos of my current air cleaner


/
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoover7 View Post
To be quite honest, the stock air-cleaner is much more effective and a better air cleaner than most aftermarket round models. I'd encourage you to rethink exchanging it for a round one. Furthermore, the flaps inside, if operational, are another good item to have. When properly configured, they redirect warm air to the carb when the engine is cold, helping improve volatization of fuel, then they close when the engine warms, allowing cold air into the carb, which is also helpful in getting more fuel to the cylinders.

Post some pictures of your air cleaner. If it's stock, and is the correct one for the power brake setup, they command a high price on ebay. Do a search! I can tell you, they are expensive because CJ owners (like me) who ditched them want them back, and have to pay a big price to get one.

I agree that, if operational, keeping the EGR and vapor canister would be a wise move as well. Now that your rig is nuttered, and you've removed all the associated computer controlled accessories, routing your vacuum lines should be relatively easy.

Hoover
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post #38 of 38 Old 10-17-2020, 08:46 PM Thread Starter
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I rotated the filter where the return feed is on the top. Thanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by uptillnow View Post
You may run into trouble with your current fuel filter orientation.

Rotate it 90 degrees, so the return to the tank hose is at the 12 o'clock position.

Works great and lasts a long time
UTN
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