Help Identifying These Engine Parts - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 5 Old 07-25-2021, 12:19 AM Thread Starter
Clay Routh
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Help Identifying These Engine Parts

1975 CJ-5 232 cu in L6

This engine has a clifford intake, and headers rather than exhaust manifold.
The engine is rumoured to have been rebuilt shortly before the CJ got stuck, and subsequently flooded and left in a field for a couple years.
Then it was traded to another individual, and it sat in a garage for 12 years.
It is now undergoing a frame up restore in my garage.
I'm re-assembling the engine, but the 232 exhaust gaskets come nowhere near lining up with the ports and dowels.
Is it possible that this 232 has a 4.0 head? The exhaust ports are oblong, almost round, the intakes are rectangular.
I seem to recall the 232 only used intake gaskets. No gaskets on the exhaust. Is this correct?
This engine had a single intake and exhaust gasket.

The engine was in amazingly good condition. It did have some water in the oil pan and a stuck piston.
The main and rod bearings seemed almost new. They were .010 under. Pistons .030 over. #6 cylinder was recovered successfully.
This makes me think the rumors about it being rebuilt before getting stuck are true.
The differentials had zero water intrusion, but the brakes were severely rusted, and the knuckle joints were rusted together internally.

There are so many oddities involved, that I'm no longer certain this is even the original engine.

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post #2 of 5 Old 07-25-2021, 01:06 AM Thread Starter
Clay Routh
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I think I just answered my own question.
The engine block casting number is 3235077, which makes it a 1980 258 (4.2L)
The head casting number is 7120, indicating it is a 4.0 head.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
There are so many mods to this thing that I'm still trying to sort out the parts, hardware, etc.
It's always fun when you get one that someone else disassembled.
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post #3 of 5 Old 07-25-2021, 07:04 AM
CJ7-Tim
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Seems correct to me. The '91-'95 HO heads with casting # 7120 have the highest intake and exhaust port airflows, especially at lower valve lifts where it is most important, and are the best performing 4.0L heads. Sounds like a really cool project.


4.2 L casting numbers

'70-'72: 3199962
'73-'74: 3218618, 3222380, 3213867
'75-'79: 3227445, 3224098
'80: 3235077
'81-'89: 3235444


4.0 L Head

Year…………..Casting number
1987-1990…… #2686 2 temp sensors
1991-1995…… #7120 2 temp sensors
1996-1999…… #0630 1 temp sensor

Head Casting Numbers located between cylinders 3 and 4



Cylinder head flow figures (cfm) at 28in H2O pressure drop are:
HO head #7120
Valve lift (in)... 0.1 ... 0.2 ... 0.3 ... 0.4 ... 0.5 ... 0.6
Intake flow...... 66.0 128.0 179.0 206.0 209.0 209.0
Exhaust flow.... 55.0 100.0 120.0 136.0 141.0 141.2

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not to overthrow the Constitution but to overthrow the men who would pervert the Constitution” Abraham Lincoln, 1859.
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post #4 of 5 Old 07-25-2021, 12:40 PM Thread Starter
Clay Routh
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The timing chain and sprocket appear to be new, nice and tight.
However, the timing cover was installed incorrectly.
Either you use a tool to align the harmonic balancer seal or you have to use the balance itself.
Not having the alignment tool I used the balancer, which of course meant pulling it back off after getting the cover set.
Apparently, whomever built it last time didn't do this, and it had been "burping" oil out the top of the seal.
There was a groove worn in the bottom side of the seal.
Being so concerned with getting this right, getting the new pistons and so forth installed, I couldn't remember if I torqued down the camshaft sprocket bolt.
So I took it apart again this morning.
I did torque it down. 50 lbs.

Pan is on, engine mounts back on.
Soon as I can gather up the women of the house to help, I'll stab it back in to assemble the top side.
I have strict orders not to lift anything over 10 pounds (recent surgery).
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post #5 of 5 Old 07-30-2021, 04:46 AM Thread Starter
Clay Routh
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Finally got the correct gaskets. Plan to install the bell housing and transmission, just to hold the engine in place. Leaving the clutch disk and pressure plate out. Then doing minimal wiring, cranking up the engine, and run it in for a few days. The fuel tank (obvously) is not original, so installing that will be (yet) another adventure. The flywheel is fresh turned (refaced) so I will oil it up prior to installing the bell housing. I'm going to remove the new disk brake pads, and oil up the disks as well. After this is running ok, it will go back up on blocks, covered up outside. Then we'll be moving the tub in for some serious repairs. Considered buying a new tub, but we'd rather keep the original. After we get THAT done, then we'll clean the oil off the flywheel, and brake disks and start mating things together. We just don't want the brake disks and flywheel face to rust while the chassis is stored. Then the power brake booster, and hydraulic clutch actuator mods will be done.
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