help! electrical issue with column. left stranded - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 21 Old 09-10-2019, 01:01 AM Thread Starter
70sbudget
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help! electrical issue with column. left stranded

1982 cj7, 2.5L 4 cyl. 4 speed manual.

truck has been very reliable on starting issues. till today. drove the daily driver to work. came out after work and hit the key, got the brake light, heard the electric fuel pump the PO installed charge up. when i rolled the key switch to start, lost everything. no lights, no fuel pump charging, no dash lights. what gives. i only had a test light with me.

i turned the key to run and started wiggling under the dash. fuel pump clicked on. volt meter showed low 12s. hit the key to start and got a click. everything went black.

found a light blue wire in the bottom of the column that was lose and popped out of the plastic housing. looks like the end broke off but i have no idea why this drained the system enough and how can i repair it mcgyuver style as the truck is in the middle of a parking structure and wont run without power to the fuel pump.

any help appreciated.

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post #2 of 21 Old 09-10-2019, 01:10 AM Thread Starter
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https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bxe...ut=list&num=50

oh look, the blue one is the starter switch wire. lol. awesome. how can i wire it back into the system mcguyver stile till i can get it home? but have a feeling this doesnt power the fuel pump.
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post #3 of 21 Old 09-10-2019, 03:59 AM
John Strenk
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Try pushing down on the wires going to the ignition switch on the column. Maybe the harness was under tension and broke the blue wire and pulled the socket out a little.
Hopefully the socket hasn't melted because of the poor connection.

You only need the blue wire circuit temporarily when starting. You can do that with just a pair of pliers connecting the "S" terminal on the starter with the Post going to the battery.

However since you don't have power going to anything else, that could be a problem. How McGuyver do you want to get?

Since you have a test light see if any fuses are hot without the ignition. Is so then you can take a heave piece of wire and jumper a hot circuit over to the switched circuits just in the fuse box. This is how someone tried to steal my Suzuki one day.

If you don't have power anywhere, then you have a bigger problem.
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post #4 of 21 Old 09-10-2019, 10:15 AM Thread Starter
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So I made it home thx to Uber. Parts on order and will head back this afternoon. Since I had one of the really cool lock cylinders which did t require a key, now is a good time to change that. I’ll swap lock cylinder, turn signal cam and wiring and the ignition switch as they could all use some attention at this point in their life and may as well do them all at once.

Besides the steering wheel puller, lock plate puller, a pick for the retaining clip, a Phillips for the can plate and hazard signal, a wrench to turn pullers, is there any other tools needed? Torx heads for anything?
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post #5 of 21 Old 09-10-2019, 10:20 AM
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I might bring a test light to troubleshoot further is you are still having electrical difficulties.

A wrench to fit the seats in case you want to make it easier to get under there.
But you have one of them '7s which has tons of room at least compaired to a '5 owner.


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post #6 of 21 Old 09-10-2019, 10:26 AM Thread Starter
70sbudget
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Am I going to have to drop the steering column to get the ignition switch down the column? I saw how to get the turn signal switch down but concerned about the ignition switch
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post #7 of 21 Old 09-10-2019, 10:32 AM
John Strenk
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The dash stops you from dropping the column.


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post #8 of 21 Old 09-10-2019, 10:44 AM Thread Starter
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Actually I should have asked if the “ignition switch wiring” goes from the lock solenoid down the column next to the turn signal wiring or if the ignition switch wiring goes from the column to somewhere else in the harness and the wires that carry the electrical current from the lock cylinder to the bottom of the column are contained within the wiring of the turn signal wiring?

I have yet to see a video with the ignition switch wiring IN the column. Thx so much!
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post #9 of 21 Old 09-10-2019, 12:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 70sbudget View Post
Actually I should have asked if the “ignition switch wiring” goes from the lock solenoid down the column next to the turn signal wiring or if the ignition switch wiring goes from the column to somewhere else in the harness and the wires that carry the electrical current from the lock cylinder to the bottom of the column are contained within the wiring of the turn signal wiring?

I have yet to see a video with the ignition switch wiring IN the column. Thx so much!

That is because there is no ignition switch wiring in the column. There is a rod that runs from the key tumbler to the bottom of the column and the switch is mounted externally to the bottom of the column. The only wiring in the column is turn/hazard/horn.

80 CJ-5, 74 CJ-6, 56 CJ-5
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post #10 of 21 Old 09-10-2019, 12:56 PM
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Something like this:
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post #11 of 21 Old 09-10-2019, 01:10 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fourtrail View Post
That is because there is no ignition switch wiring in the column. There is a rod that runs from the key tumbler to the bottom of the column and the switch is mounted externally to the bottom of the column. The only wiring in the column is turn/hazard/horn.
excelent! thank you!



thx for the pic. thats what i thought. glad i asked.
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post #12 of 21 Old 09-10-2019, 11:06 PM
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if all circuits go dead on Start you may have loose or corroded battery terminals. The extra current needed for Start breaks the electrical path, sometime sit comes back but often you have to fiddle with the terminal. Solution could be to clean up and fasten firmly or buy new cables and terminals.
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post #13 of 21 Old 09-11-2019, 06:01 AM
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HI, The first thing I'd look at would be the battery cables....... One wire going to the starter is NOT going to cut the power off to everything.. That sounds more like dirty cables to me.. NOT on the out side but between the cable clamp and the battery posts. This needs to be shiny clean to make connection and believe it or not they can and well corrode and lose connection like you are having... Check your cables FIRST...
Good luck
tim
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post #14 of 21 Old 09-11-2019, 09:51 AM Thread Starter
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Update.

Got her home. Changed out turn signal cams. While in there I tried to change the lock cylinder but couldn’t get it out. There was no retaining pin holding the cylinder in but I can’t get it out. The lock plate rod is super sticky and slow to return and doesn’t pop up to lock the plate. Just an observation not an issue. I have 12.7 v sitting with motor off. 14.7 with motor on. Sometimes I get the brake light on when I turn the key. Sometimes I don’t. Still hasn’t started under its own power. Turns on easily with jump box.

Battery is new so I’ll clean up terminals this morning and see where that takes us
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post #15 of 21 Old 09-11-2019, 09:57 AM
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There were two types of retaining methods for the lock cylinder.

One used a screw and one had a tab that had to be depressed.
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