Headers for 1980 CJ7 258 - Page 2 - JeepForum.com
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post #16 of 28 Old 08-29-2019, 06:54 AM Thread Starter
mc190
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Evidently the stainless exhausts that DNA has on their web site will not be a direct bolt on- or at least the folks at DNA said "it's not the right one" but they could not explain why.




Went ahead and ordered Hedman Headers 99601 6 to 1 as I'll just change out the entire exhaust system vs patching in new headers to an old muffler.

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post #17 of 28 Old 08-29-2019, 10:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mc190 View Post
Evidently the stainless exhausts that DNA has on their web site will not be a direct bolt on- or at least the folks at DNA said "it's not the right one" but they could not explain why.
.......
If I recall, the mounting flanges(?) are a different height.

I think the difference is between the cast iron intake and the aluminum intake manifold.
The cast iron ones need longer bolts and you cannot mix the two. or you will need a bunch of 1/2 washers...

Also the ones with a cast iron intake also run a heat riser to heat the intake.
The bottom of the intake drops low to attach to the exhaust header.
You might see notches in the center two tubes of the header to clear the bottom of the intake.
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post #18 of 28 Old 08-29-2019, 10:12 AM
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Here is a great picture of the miss-match mounting flange on a header.

This happens with mixing a old intake style with a newer style header.

You can see he used a pipe or something to make an adapter.

You have to have it the exact length or the exhaust or intake will not seal properly.

Looks like headman headers sell the right "Bolt Adapters" though.
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post #19 of 28 Old 09-05-2019, 09:38 AM Thread Starter
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Got the Hedman Headers 6to1 to replace the dual set up. Going to use Por-15 high heat paint to cover them up. I priced out a few shops to get them coated, but they were in the $275 range. Figured a can of POR-15 for $20 is a wiser solution for a Jeep.
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post #20 of 28 Old 09-05-2019, 10:15 AM
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I'm pretty sure you have to remove the black coating that comes on them first.


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post #21 of 28 Old 09-05-2019, 10:30 AM Thread Starter
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I'm pretty sure you have to remove the black coating that comes on them first.


Shawn

that is correct, already started to sand it off.
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post #22 of 28 Old 09-10-2019, 05:27 PM Thread Starter
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Got the Hedman 6:1 cleaned up and painted with Por-15 high heat paint. Gasket and RTV ready to go. Now just need an extra set of hands to get everything lined up and bolted down. Going to rip out the entire exhaust as well. It was not as bad as the 2 piece header that I'm replacing, but bad enough to go ahead and get it all new.

When re-installing the Headman Header-
Looking at the installation instructions, Hedman notes how the stock bolts, spacer and washers should line up to basically "pinch" the intake manifold to the head. Is their diagram right? I'd think the washer should lie flush against the spacer. I am reusing the original bots and washers, but using the new spacers that Hedman provided (they are the same size as the old ones).

When we took off the original bolts, I really did not pay that much attention to how they lined up. I was more happy that I was able to remove the bolts without anything breaking in the head.
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post #23 of 28 Old 09-10-2019, 11:57 PM
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instructions are correct, the spacers are not guaranteed to be exactly the right length so you otherwise risk not being able to tighten the header on.

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post #24 of 28 Old 09-11-2019, 06:43 AM Thread Starter
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instructions are correct, the spacers are not guaranteed to be exactly the right length so you otherwise risk not being able to tighten the header on.
I think I get it now. Usually I'm pretty good about taking photos of stuff before I tear it apart, but this time I just forgot.


So the idea is to make sure that the thick concave washers are flush with the intake manifold and spacers- which would against the tabs that stick out a bit on the spacers and the intake manifold.


I did a significant search history and was able to find a picture of someone who actually mounted them the other way. But so as long as the bolts are able get everything flush and tighten down per the torque specs (I believe it's 20-25lb) it should be good.
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post #25 of 28 Old 09-13-2019, 07:20 AM
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I have run the Heddman for several years and like the single outlet adds ease to adjust the clutch linkage when needed. Header, MC 2100, Team Rush tune up and it runs good for me. My spare motor 258 with the 4.0 head torquer cam, Team Rush ignition set up and will use the single outlet on it too.
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post #26 of 28 Old 09-13-2019, 08:05 AM
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Another reason to get the 6:1 is that it lines up perfectly with the muffler inlet. You may need to get a muffler shop to expand your standard exhaust tube to match the connection at the collector outlet.
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post #27 of 28 Old 09-13-2019, 09:14 AM Thread Starter
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Another reason to get the 6:1 is that it lines up perfectly with the muffler inlet. You may need to get a muffler shop to expand your standard exhaust tube to match the connection at the collector outlet.


Since I was going from a 2 piece header down to the 6:1 decided to rip out the entire exhaust anyway. Got a Flowmaster 40 series as a replacement. Should do just fine for my needs vs. a high end cost exhaust system.
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post #28 of 28 Old 09-15-2019, 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by mc190 View Post
Since I was going from a 2 piece header down to the 6:1 decided to rip out the entire exhaust anyway. Got a Flowmaster 40 series as a replacement. Should do just fine for my needs vs. a high end cost exhaust system.
I run the same muffler with a high flow cat then had a custom bend to run it out the back. It sounds good.
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