Grounding entire Jeep systems - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 36 Old 06-25-2021, 06:45 AM Thread Starter
Kramerica
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Grounding entire Jeep systems

Can you over ground your cj7

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post #2 of 36 Old 06-25-2021, 07:04 AM
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At some point it does become redundant, but no, not really.
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post #3 of 36 Old 06-25-2021, 07:10 AM
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Yes, there are few items on a CJ so you quickly get to the point that you have installed a seperate ground to all electricity users. Trick is to get the ground path as large as the supply path but any larger is wasting cash.
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post #4 of 36 Old 06-25-2021, 07:42 AM
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NO.






This is a 100 amp ground strap continuous run to multiple locations:

Tired of grounding issues.
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post #5 of 36 Old 06-25-2021, 11:42 AM
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No you can't. If you could my Jeep wouldn't run at all. Think of it this way. Most older vehicle (and maybe most new too) use a chassis ground system, meaning you can put a screw into the body or frame pretty much anywhere to obtain a ground path. Doing it with a dedicated wire simply makes a cleaner, more efficient path to do it with.

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post #6 of 36 Old 06-25-2021, 06:57 PM
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I added 6 heavy grounding straps (3 per side) connecting body to chassis. Made a world of difference in everything electrical!

Danny
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post #7 of 36 Old 06-25-2021, 08:49 PM
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Bad grounds are a huge issue in CJs and any older vehicle really. Multiple straps to body, block, frame, and dash help tons. I like to use a bus bar in the engine bay, under the dash and in the rear, all with one stud daisy chained straight to battery.

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post #8 of 36 Old 06-26-2021, 06:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kramerica View Post
Can you over ground your cj7

No, but I have seen CJ projects that have more grounds than needed.


Basically you only need to ground between isolated portions of the Jeep that have rubber, paint, polyurethane, grease, oil or any other insulating media that prevents or slows down the path of electrons. Electrons need to move through conductive material.

Factory grounding was from (-) battery-to-engine block, engine block motor mount-to-motor mount frame and battery to firewall. That was it. Worked OK with fresh new steel, paint that was applied after body parts were fitted and minimum accessories and options that didn't need much current (low voltage that flows to high voltage = DC current flowing from negative to positive).

But over time, these simple connection points become corroded and inadequate for high current add-ons, separated painted panels, and so forth. Providing new points for electrons to move through conductive material is all that is needed and that will depend on the electrical device's function on how it needs to be grounded in order to function.

An example is my underhood light that use to work with factory wiring but no longer worked after painting hood and hinges separately. I simply lost the path of conductivity. With hinges being painted and hinge pins greased, I had to add a ground strap from ground Bus Bar-to-hood hinge bolt to complete the conductive path. I now we have a working light.


firewall-grounding-block.jpg


hood-bumper-25-.jpg


Use your own judgement as to where, why and when a good ground is needed.
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post #9 of 36 Old 06-26-2021, 09:19 AM
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I used to run a diesel shop for a trucking company. Every shop in the company had what we called "Rod's Bible". It was a two page map of every ground there is on our Kenworths. Using that to check all the grounds solved all sorts of electrical problems, from gages not working to sensors tripping check engine lights, etc. and these were New trucks! Good grounding is crucial in any vehicle. Sometimes just cleaning, tightening, replacing or re-locating an existing ground can do really good things.
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post #10 of 36 Old 06-26-2021, 01:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keith460 View Post
No, but I have seen CJ projects that have more grounds than needed.


Basically you only need to ground between isolated portions of the Jeep that have rubber, paint, polyurethane, grease, oil or any other insulating media that prevents or slows down the path of electrons. Electrons need to move through conductive material.

Factory grounding was from (-) battery-to-engine block, engine block motor mount-to-motor mount frame and battery to firewall. That was it. Worked OK with fresh new steel, paint that was applied after body parts were fitted and minimum accessories and options that didn't need much current (low voltage that flows to high voltage = DC current flowing from negative to positive).

But over time, these simple connection points become corroded and inadequate for high current add-ons, separated painted panels, and so forth. Providing new points for electrons to move through conductive material is all that is needed and that will depend on the electrical device's function on how it needs to be grounded in order to function.

An example is my underhood light that use to work with factory wiring but no longer worked after painting hood and hinges separately. I simply lost the path of conductivity. With hinges being painted and hinge pins greased, I had to add a ground strap from ground Bus Bar-to-hood hinge bolt to complete the conductive path. I now we have a working light.


Attachment 3994727


Attachment 3994729


Use your own judgement as to where, why and when a good ground is needed.
That’s a great idea. Going to probably do this when I replace the hood hinges next month.
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post #11 of 36 Old 06-26-2021, 01:51 PM
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6 CJ-5s for me

Neg cable onto engine

Ground jumper from neg battery post to firewall (in front of passenger)

Strap/ cable from engine to frame (jumping over motor mounts.

I have at times ran a separate ground from the radio--it being part of the radio

I HAVE NEVER RAN A SEPARATE GROUND ON ANY OF MY CJs, SEEMS THE METAL PEICES ARE ADEQUATE AND WERE THE INTENDED PATHWAY FOR ALL OF THIS TO WORK.


My CJ2A with a fiberglass body is a different story----if a part uses 12 volts, it must return to the negative battery via a separate ground wire or congregate to a buss on it's way to the neg battery. Neg battery grounds to engine block (Like my CJ-5s) and jumps from the engine to the frame (just like the CJ-5s). Even running all of the grounds separate, I have never had a ground issue at all since 1991 when I wired Willy up initially.

So that's been 7 Jeeps for me beginning in 1981, It really does not make sense that everybody else has these problems??---and yes, I've had my share of rust too!

----JEEPFELLER
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post #12 of 36 Old 06-27-2021, 08:54 AM
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I rewired our Jeep and ran individual grounds to what I thought everything electrical via ground blocks. I still find things that have bad grounds.

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post #13 of 36 Old 06-27-2021, 09:01 AM
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Simple common sense.
High draw items such as winches could use added grounding.
Isolated appliances, such as fiberglass and/or rubber mounted appliances, or items mounted past poor grounding components (hinges, as Kieth noted) , usually need added grounding.
But there comes a time where the law of diminishing returns kicks in and you wind up with a lot of unnecessary clutter with no real value.
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post #14 of 36 Old 06-27-2021, 09:21 AM Thread Starter
Kramerica
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In looking at my Jeep cj I see the grounds but they look very thin to me..
I will replace with ground strap.
Do I found to frame from Body
I should add this in new TDC Frame and new tub
All new wiring harness from painless.
Doing the dash which peels the onion a little more making me look at my grounds all gauges work originally but after wiring harness voltmeter was pegged over.. just want to sure it’s all grounded properly you guys are making me understand this better and I can’t thank you enough!
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post #15 of 36 Old 06-27-2021, 09:41 AM
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I would do larger gauge grounds than factory if I were you and add a bus bar by battery to at least connect a dash ground to. Neg cable to block, ground strap or cable from block to frame and a strap from tub to frame. You should be golden then since all is new.

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