Grandpa's original 1976 CJ-7 - Page 7 - JeepForum.com
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post #91 of 109 Old 09-25-2020, 09:35 AM
80cj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PLM View Post
Cool Jeep. Nice to see one in such good shape that hasn't been butchered.
Those are my exact thoughts. I try to keep my CJ-5 looking pretty much stock also.

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post #92 of 109 Old 09-26-2020, 07:17 PM Thread Starter
RyanPartridge
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Got a hood prop rod installed today since it was missing. Kind've crappy the way it mounts, unless I did it wrong. I couldn't tighten the screws down much without doing damage. The ball end just rubs direct on the hood and the plate doesn't sit flush.

Also pulled the doors off to enjoy the nice weather while we have it.

Starting to notice that when in Park it shifts intro Drive smooth but shifting into Reverse give a pretty good thunk. I wonder if the motor or trans mounts are bad?

.
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post #93 of 109 Old 09-26-2020, 07:47 PM
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Can you drill a hole where the ball mounts, or install a spacer underneath the screws?

Hoss

Good judgement comes from experience; experience comes from bad judgement
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post #94 of 109 Old 09-26-2020, 08:01 PM
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Also pulled the doors off to enjoy the nice weather while we have it.

.
Can you tell if the to has ever been removed?

I have a hardtop and full doors for mine, but have only had them on a couple of times.
but its great to have them.

Top off open jeep is great. any plans to run open?

Whats over that next ridge?
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post #95 of 109 Old 09-27-2020, 09:00 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoonHoss View Post
Can you drill a hole where the ball mounts, or install a spacer underneath the screws?

Hoss
I was thinking about spacers to avoid any unnecessary drilling. I'll give it a shot!

Quote:
Originally Posted by 4Low2G0 View Post
Can you tell if the top has ever been removed?

I have a hardtop and full doors for mine, but have only had them on a couple of times.
but its great to have them.

Top off open jeep is great. any plans to run open?
I'm not 100%, but I don't think the top was ever removed. I'm sure I'll try it eventually! For cruising around town running errands I don't mind the idea of going doorless or topless. But for taking it off highway to a trailhead where I'll leave it parked while I'm on a hike, I like the idea of being able to lock it up.
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post #96 of 109 Old 09-27-2020, 09:14 AM
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Ryan, my top hasn't been on in 25 years, as it hangs from the ceiling in my garage. If I was in Payson, I would certainly use it much more as you have shoulder seasons where it would be nice to have the lid on for warmth. Summers in Payson would be perfect for topless cruising. There is no good time for a top in Phoenix. LOL. I have factory air, but it hasn't worked in quite some time. I figured, even if it did get it going again, I don't think it would be good enough to put the top on in the summer. Still scorching outside, and the Jeep is insulated about as good as a beer can. Payson also a great place to not worry so much about locking the Jeep. Cool progress so far
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post #97 of 109 Old 09-27-2020, 11:02 AM
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A think rubber gasket might work well, like something cut out of a rubber tool drawer liner or such (maybe even double up or layered to get the right thickness)

Hoss
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post #98 of 109 Old 09-27-2020, 09:18 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpadget View Post
Ryan, my top hasn't been on in 25 years, as it hangs from the ceiling in my garage. If I was in Payson, I would certainly use it much more as you have shoulder seasons where it would be nice to have the lid on for warmth. Summers in Payson would be perfect for topless cruising. There is no good time for a top in Phoenix. LOL. I have factory air, but it hasn't worked in quite some time. I figured, even if it did get it going again, I don't think it would be good enough to put the top on in the summer. Still scorching outside, and the Jeep is insulated about as good as a beer can. Payson also a great place to not worry so much about locking the Jeep. Cool progress so far
I cruised around today with the doors off, it was a nice clear day. But we have been getting an occasional dump of rain. Phoenix is a different animal. You're right though, locking up isn't a big deal here generally. I'm thinking more about parking it out in the woods, in the summer while we have our weekend visitors...but then again I don't really go out there on the weekends.

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A think rubber gasket might work well, like something cut out of a rubber tool drawer liner or such (maybe even double up or layered to get the right thickness)

Hosa
Good call...I may have some laying around!
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post #99 of 109 Old 10-16-2020, 08:39 AM Thread Starter
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Update:
Gear oil in front and rear diffs changed. I used a LubeLocker gasket on the front Dana 30 and a classic cork for the rear AMC 20 and everything sealed perfect, no leaks so far.
Windshield wipers changed.
Inner & Outer window scrubbers replaced.

Next, I need to address the slop in the steering, get an alignment, and address the squeaking brakes that pull to the right.

Anyone have any advice on which brand brakes I should avoid or purchase?
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post #100 of 109 Old 10-16-2020, 09:04 AM
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In that you don't have a very heavy vehicle and won't be making any high speed stops you won't need high end i.e. expensive brake pads or shoes. I recommend you go to your Friendly Local Auto Parts Store (FLAPS) and buy their store brand pads and shoes with a limited lifetime warranty. A limited lifetime warranty means if the part fails or wears out while you own the Jeep you get free replacement parts.

My oldest bought a same year used Dodge Daytona when she was a senior in HS. Now this girl drives like she is on a road course everywhere she goes and coasting to a stop isn't in her skill set. I bought limited lifetime warranty front pads for her car and replaced them at no cost 9 times in 10 years and almost 200,000 miles before the car died. Never once did the FLAPS balk about the free replacement.

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post #101 of 109 Old 10-16-2020, 01:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RyanPartridge View Post
Update:
Gear oil in front and rear diffs changed. I used a LubeLocker gasket on the front Dana 30 and a classic cork for the rear AMC 20 and everything sealed perfect, no leaks so far.
Windshield wipers changed.
Inner & Outer window scrubbers replaced.

Next, I need to address the slop in the steering, get an alignment, and address the squeaking brakes that pull to the right.

Anyone have any advice on which brand brakes I should avoid or purchase?
Glad you're enjoying the Jeep!

Did the Jeep have a limited slip diff? and if so did you remember to add the LSD additive?

As for brake parts, I'm running EBC parts now, but I have a little lift and 32" tires, so I wanted
something with a little more stopping power.

When you adjust the steering make sure the box isn't worn, as it will bind when it moves to lock
and feel ok when centered, also don't forget to check all the ball joints and red ends.

Then GO DRIVE IT !

Whats over that next ridge?
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post #102 of 109 Old 10-17-2020, 05:12 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the advice fellas!

4Low2G0 - I didn't add any LSD additive. Should I have? I just pumped in about 2 qts of Lucas 80w-90 gear oil.
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post #103 of 109 Old 10-17-2020, 06:00 PM
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I agree with just getting whatever shoes they sell at the parts store. It looks like you have front drums like me, and I've been using the centric shoes front and rear for years with good results. Even though they are drum brakes, as long as they're adjusted properly I didn't have any issue locking up 31's.

As for the clunk into reverse, my TH400 does that also. It was really bad a few years ago until I replaced the chain in the transfer case, now it just clunks somewhat hard. I've thought about taking the valve body out and seeing if there is anything I could do to improve it, but I haven't had the motivation to yet.
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post #104 of 109 Old 10-18-2020, 08:10 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LJameson View Post
I agree with just getting whatever shoes they sell at the parts store. It looks like you have front drums like me, and I've been using the centric shoes front and rear for years with good results. Even though they are drum brakes, as long as they're adjusted properly I didn't have any issue locking up 31's.

As for the clunk into reverse, my TH400 does that also. It was really bad a few years ago until I replaced the chain in the transfer case, now it just clunks somewhat hard. I've thought about taking the valve body out and seeing if there is anything I could do to improve it, but I haven't had the motivation to yet.
Yep, still have the original drums. You wouldn't happen to have the part number for the shoes? I'm thinking our 76's are the same.

I'm kicking myself for not checking the transfer case chain slack when I drained and refilled it a couple weeks ago. Do you if the chain can be replaced with the TC installed? Or do I have to pull the whole thing?
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post #105 of 109 Old 10-18-2020, 10:38 AM
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I know you got the tank welded, but you may want to consider coating the inside of the tank with the special sealant that they make. Many times when a weld has a thin spot that causes a leak, there are others welds that are thin too. Por 15 has a sealer that works very well. You can actually have a gas tank with rusted out pinholes and it will seal it up. It will also make the tank so it will not rust in the future.



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The adventure continues...
After adding that 14 gallons to the tank, I woke up yesterday to find a leak. Wonderful.
I pulled the fuel hose up by the filter and used the electric pump to drain the tank. Found a local guy to weld it up and last night I got it all installed again. Pain in the butt.
If the leak isn't fixed after this I'm replacing the tank.

Good news...I've got new window seals, wiper blades, and diff gaskets on the way.

.
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