Gears/Transmission Grinds When I try to put in Reverse - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 16 Old 05-23-2020, 02:12 PM Thread Starter
jdeezjeep
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Gears/Transmission Grinds When I try to put in Reverse

First Time Post and Jeep Owner...Restored (mostly original) CJ-5. See my profile for the most details I have thus far. The first few hundred miles of ownership, all was well...In the past 70 miles approximately I've noticed it getting harder to put into Reverse. Now it's grinding when I try to put into reverse and it's worse after it gets warmed up (5 mile trip to gas station, for example). Going into first is difficult, but not yet experiencing grinding. I've got the TSM for this '75 CJ-5 Jeep, and am thinking it is the Syncro-Clutch. I'm curious what folks on this forum might think. Thanks in advance...

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post #2 of 16 Old 05-23-2020, 02:34 PM
oldschool74cj5
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hello

have you serviced it lately with oil. if so what gear oil. it calls for a 90w gl4 gear oil. also one thing you can do is first shift it to first gear then go to reverse. by doing so it will stop the internals from spinning.

oldschool
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post #3 of 16 Old 05-23-2020, 07:00 PM Thread Starter
jdeezjeep
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Thanks for reply. Yes, been serviced and yes to 90w (gl4/5). And i've first shifted into first gear, then tried reverse, but that didn't work.

JD
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post #4 of 16 Old 05-23-2020, 07:32 PM
RiverandSand
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Have tried to adjust the clutch? The trans needs to be completely stopped internally to shift into reverse. So an adjustment maybe needed. Reverse isn't synchronized.
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post #5 of 16 Old 05-23-2020, 08:41 PM
BrutusBlue
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I wonder if your not getting full engagement with the clutch throw. Maybe some further adjustment is needed.
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post #6 of 16 Old 05-23-2020, 08:53 PM
jeepdaddy2000
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Classic clutch issue. You need to insure the free pedal is correct, the body isn't lifting when depressing the clutch, and the bellcrank holes/linkage ends aren't worn.

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post #7 of 16 Old 05-24-2020, 11:43 AM Thread Starter
jdeezjeep
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Thanks again...I've followed the "clutch linkage adjustment" section of the TSM, and that checks fine. Also, the TSM states there is a "syncronizer assembly" for "low-and-reverse".

JD
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post #8 of 16 Old 05-24-2020, 01:23 PM
80cj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdeezjeep View Post
Thanks again...I've followed the "clutch linkage adjustment" section of the TSM, and that checks fine. Also, the TSM states there is a "syncronizer assembly" for "low-and-reverse".

JD
Yours is a T-14 trans. Reverse shifts with the first-reverse synchro sleeve but there is no synchro blocking ring or synchro cone on reverse gear so reverse is not synchronized. If a dragging clutch is not the problem, a bad pilot bushing can also be the cause. Sometimes a bad pilot bushing will make a squealing-rubbing sound especially when cold.
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post #9 of 16 Old 05-24-2020, 01:32 PM
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Another thing that can happen is that a clutch pressure plate lever fulcrum screw can loosen and go out of adjustment preventing full disengagement when the clutch pedal is depressed. That happened to my present CJ-5 just out of warranty. I was able to shift into forward gears because they're synchronized but over a short period of time, getting into reverse became more and more difficult. Ended up replacing the pressure plate.
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post #10 of 16 Old 05-25-2020, 03:39 AM
BagusJeep
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your clutch is not fully disengaging. you will see this first in a grinding reverse, then first will baulk,
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post #11 of 16 Old 05-26-2020, 05:15 PM
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I had the same problem with my 1975 CJ5, in 1978. (258 engine, 3 speed trans.) I asked my dad, he said adjust the clutch, that fixed it.
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post #12 of 16 Old 05-26-2020, 05:32 PM
MikeC45
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In order for the gears to grind going into reverse the transmission gears have to be rotating. I chased this problem until I thought I was going to go crazy. Installed a new clutch and it still did it. Finally found the pilot bearing in the flywheel was bad. It is a needle bearing type and clutch dust had gotten into it. Installed a new pilot bearing and all worked.

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post #13 of 16 Old 05-26-2020, 05:48 PM
oldschool74cj5
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hello
i have learned the hard way also about what to change during a clutch change. i also now always include the pilot bearing and the clutch fork if i dont know the age of it. the 7 i have now had a fairly new clutch. saw the receipts. one day driving it and heard a loud pop and lost about half of my clutch pedal. i limped home by shifting without the clutch. when i inspected i found the hole about a 1/8 inch in diameter in the end of the clutch fork where the linkage pushes against it. so unfor had to take out the trans and case to replace. while out i replaced it all again including the linkage. while replacing the pilot bushing i found it was worn bad and prob never replaced.

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post #14 of 16 Old 05-26-2020, 06:46 PM
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Been driving sticks all my life. Some are jest hard to deal with depending on quality of sincromesh gearing etc. I agree with one other post that It's important to have a good Gear Oil. I prefer Amsoil in all my vehicles. Harleys run cooler and trannies shift easier and is very noticeable. SEVERE GEAR 75W-90 is really good. I Run 75W-140 in my Rock Crawler Dana 300 transfer case and Dana 60 rear end. Also you might consider a habbit I got into years ago. If having difficulty getting into 1st of Rev. put into second to slow things down them try first should move ritght in, then try rev. should go right in. You Gear Lube will make all the difference though. goo luck.
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post #15 of 16 Old 05-26-2020, 09:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RockNchaiR View Post
Been driving sticks all my life. Some are jest hard to deal with depending on quality of sincromesh gearing etc. I agree with one other post that It's important to have a good Gear Oil. I prefer Amsoil in all my vehicles. Harleys run cooler and trannies shift easier and is very noticeable. SEVERE GEAR 75W-90 is really good. I Run 75W-140 in my Rock Crawler Dana 300 transfer case and Dana 60 rear end. Also you might consider a habbit I got into years ago. If having difficulty getting into 1st of Rev. put into second to slow things down them try first should move ritght in, then try rev. should go right in. You Gear Lube will make all the difference though. goo luck.
Sometimes certain gear lubes, especially heavier grades will cause difficult shifting when cold. The oil film between blocking ring and synchro cone is too thick and does not offer enough friction until things warm up.
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