Fuel Pump Ticking Loudly - - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 49 Old 03-29-2021, 08:21 AM Thread Starter
Caleb Smith
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Fuel Pump Ticking Loudly -

Hey everyone. First post here after a very long time. I used to own an 81 cj5, sold it maybe 7 years ago and now I am BACK with a 76 CJ5. Its in great shape and is in much better all around than my first cj5.

As of right now however I have 1 big problem that is annoying the crap out of me. There is what appears to be an aftermarket electric inline fuel pump, with filter, mounted smack in the middle of the jeep to the inside of the frame.

As soon at turn the ignition key 1 click, it starts consistently ticking. Even when the engine is running you can hear it. What are yalls thoughts on this? Is it something I just need to replace? Can it be taken apart and cleaned up? I noticed that I can crawl under the jeep and squeeze the larger canister a little bit, or even put a bit of pressure on the whole thing and it will stop. Granted I have a feeling when I do that its simply preventing the unit from doing what its supposed to be doing.

The engine is a 258 I6 and it does have a WEBER carb install....

My understanding, is I need a specific PSI pump for a replacement because of that carb. 3-3.5psi. Everything I have seen so far at my local stores is much higher, so then there come the trick of adding a holley regulator? Ideally..... I would love to just replace the pump with something just like it has now and be done with it.

What do you guys think? Thanks in advance for any help!

I have a video to this but being I am on a new account I cannot submit it yet!

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post #2 of 49 Old 03-29-2021, 08:30 AM
YJ94SBC
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I can’t speak specifically to your setup, as I have a YJ and I have an intank pump ...but if I was following my instinct, I would replace the pump. I don’t think the clicking noise is a good sign, and pumps are usually inexpensive. You may want to consider moving the pump closer to the tank, if it’s not too much trouble. Electronic fuel pumps typically perform better closer to the pump.
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post #3 of 49 Old 03-29-2021, 08:57 AM Thread Starter
Caleb Smith
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Thanks for the response. I finally just found what appears to be the identical pump I have on Amazon so I have ordered it. It was only about 15 bucks so I said screw it I might as well try that. its a 5-7psi pump too though, so Ill be looking for a regulator near the carb when I get home. For what its worth, I have been driving the jeep a good amount since I got it 4 days ago with no issues at all. Once I do the swap I will report back with the results.
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post #4 of 49 Old 03-29-2021, 10:31 AM
devildog80
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Unplug the electric and get a mechanical back on the engine. To me, more reliable and last longer. You should not need a pressure regulator, if you have the bypass filter setup that pushes what fuel your carb does not need, back to the tank.
Here is a setup from another member running a 390 4 bl carb on his 258.
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E REGULATOR%20LOCATION.jpg  
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post #5 of 49 Old 03-29-2021, 01:49 PM
downs
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Sounds like one of the previous owners put what many call a "Chatterbox" pump in there, it sounds like it name implies it will. One of the previous owners put the same in my 76 CJ5 and I converted back to a mechanical pump. Much happier with it.

1995 Jeep Cherokee Country 4X4 Stock
AW4/NP231/C8.25/D30/"UpCounty" suspension
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post #6 of 49 Old 03-29-2021, 03:01 PM
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There are two types of electric fuel pump. One is a solenoid and one is a rotary vane. The rotary vane is much quieter and more efficient than the clicky sound of the solenoid style. Invest a few bucks more and get yourself a rotary vane style and you will hardly hear it


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post #7 of 49 Old 03-29-2021, 10:18 PM
JEEPFELLER
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Can't beat that $22 mechanical pump

(Keep you a spare one for $22 too)

Long life.

No wiring---more than adequate flow/ volume/ pressure.

EZ to access and change

So what are the real advantages of the 'lectric pump in this situation?

-----JEEPFELLER
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post #8 of 49 Old 03-29-2021, 11:21 PM
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The solenoid type is very reliable and has strong suction so can be mounted in the engine bay. $15 is about right, you find them on lawn mowers and all sorts. If you are using a tank return and 3 way filter, it will tick all day as it circulates petrol to the tank. They are low pressure by design, it is just the power of the coil in the solenoid pulling a shuttle, they cannot generate more than 6psi.

the vane type rotary pump is overkill and they are not as reliable (relatively). If you get the wrong one, then you need a FPR in line to lower the pressure. And they have low suction power so you need them near the tank on the frame rail which i sinconvenient.

BagusJeep lives in Bali with far too many 4x4s:
1981 CJ7 258ci - Bagusjeep
1984 CJ7 258ci - Puthijeep
1981 J20 258ci - Gladys
1951 Willys CJ3A/MB/M38 - Little Willy
1995 Cherokee 4.0 - CHEROKEE
1980 Land Rover Series III 109" troop carrier - ROVER
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post #9 of 49 Old 03-30-2021, 05:46 AM Thread Starter
Caleb Smith
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Well it sounds like going back to a mechanical pump is the general consensus. Wonder why they went the electric route to begin with. To update, I did check by the Weber carb and there is a FPR by it set between 3 and 3.5. I really wish I could include a link to the youtube video for you guys to see but. The jeep actually was once owned by a guy who goes by Rudys Jeeps (has a website), and after looking at the photos he had of the jeep from many years ago (pretty cool find), you can see the FPR looking brand new in his photos leading me to believe he installed it.


This is what I currently have ticking, and what I have ordered another one of. It sounds like yall are saying its supposeddd to be clicking like that???
UTSAUTO E8012S Electric Fuel Pump 12V Low Pressure Inline Transfer Diesel Fuel Pump 5-9 PSI for Carburetor Engine E8012S FD0002 P60430, EP12S


Likewise swapping back to a mechanical does make sense, but what also makes sense is doing the easiest thing and just swapping out the electric pump where it sits right now haha. My goal is to get rid of the clicking noise, that's really it.

Last edited by Caleb Smith; 03-30-2021 at 06:15 AM.
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post #10 of 49 Old 03-30-2021, 08:41 AM
CJ5_Fan
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Fyi- The rotary vane pumps were developed for and are used by our military. I would not consider reliability of the design to be a deciding factor between the two types. I have been using a rotary style for years with no issues. I switched it out originally due to vapor locking in the high temps we have here in Arizona.


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post #11 of 49 Old 03-30-2021, 03:52 PM
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I predict the same re-situation.

-----JEEPFELLER
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post #12 of 49 Old 03-31-2021, 01:34 AM
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Yep, that is a solenoid type.

Why put on an electric? Good question. They are less reliable but tend to get fitted when the 30+ year old mechanical pump fails. "junk" the PO cries and puts on an electrical pump that then needs wires, relays, fuses etc.

All of my older Jeeps arrived with electric pumps, they will all get converted in the end to a Carter OEM spec mechanical pump. I still have two with the electric pump just because they keep on ticking. In my case it was probably a lack of spare parts, these cheap electrics are the ones available at the local parts pusher. I purchased a number of Carter mechanical pumps in a sale at Rockauto and had them shipped.

BagusJeep lives in Bali with far too many 4x4s:
1981 CJ7 258ci - Bagusjeep
1984 CJ7 258ci - Puthijeep
1981 J20 258ci - Gladys
1951 Willys CJ3A/MB/M38 - Little Willy
1995 Cherokee 4.0 - CHEROKEE
1980 Land Rover Series III 109" troop carrier - ROVER
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post #13 of 49 Old 04-01-2021, 05:57 AM Thread Starter
Caleb Smith
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Alright wanted to follow up....
I cancelled the order on the replacement pump. Reason being..... I took it to a mechanic to get a quote on a flowmaster. Let him hear it and he without hesitation said it was just an electric fuel pump and thats what they do. Turns out the original mechical fuel pump is still on the jeep so I may eventually remove the mechanical.
In other news I have a cracked exhaust manifold
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post #14 of 49 Old 04-01-2021, 06:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Caleb Smith View Post
...
In other news I have a cracked exhaust manifold
That's great news!!
Now you can justify those headers

1977 CJ5 is a CJ build ever really done?
2002 TJ gone
2005 TJ also gone
2005 LJ insurance wreck
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post #15 of 49 Old 04-01-2021, 07:55 AM
John Strenk
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Install headers and glasspacks and that ticking noise won't bother you anymore.

In the meantime, just turn up the radio louder....
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I drive a Prius to save money and buy more Jeep Parts....
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