Engine Problem - Page 5 - JeepForum.com
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post #61 of 74 Old 08-10-2020, 05:32 PM Thread Starter
Alabamacj71981
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I was looking at your first picture and those threads look ok, must be "photo-Shopped" [IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/JeepForum_2016/smilies/tango_face_smile_big.png[/IMG]

The second picture looks like you struck "gold", but probably a tank full of rust. New/Clean the tank, replace some rubber hose, new filters, good to go.

The third picture looks like a lot of work on the dash, looking good!

Where did you buy your Weber 38-DGES?

UTN[/QUOTE]

Tried to buy through Redline but called with no answer and wrote email having no response. I ended up going through Morris 4x4. They had it to me via FedEx with signature in 5 days. They always have the low price and it is the one saying it is the real Weber from Spain, etc.

The dash is obviously after market but much more solid and beefy than original. Super happy.

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post #62 of 74 Old 08-16-2020, 06:00 PM Thread Starter
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Ordered a new gas tank, straps, and skid plate to take care of the rust issue. 😁 This thing is moving forward.
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post #63 of 74 Old 08-22-2020, 07:25 PM Thread Starter
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Almost to that carburetor!

This week, I put my exhaust manifold in a vinegar and salt bath. This was a neat way to do things. Took 3 days with daily 5 min scrub. Then high temp painted all the goods. The pics are before, after, and after paint.
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post #64 of 74 Old 08-22-2020, 07:32 PM Thread Starter
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Today I also installed the gas tank. The old gas tank had nasty junk all in the bottom. Glad I did this. Put a clear coat on gas tank and painted everything else black. Pics below. I need to read up on what to do with the small ports on side. Vent tubes? PO has nothing there. I need to read my Hanes on this.

Now I can throw the new Weber carburetor on there (without worry of messing her up with gas tank rust) and start to see if she runs. Should do that next weekend.
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post #65 of 74 Old 08-23-2020, 03:41 PM
kavephish2.0
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looks great!!
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post #66 of 74 Old 08-23-2020, 03:47 PM Thread Starter
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Well, kept piddling at it and put back on refurbished intake manifold. Put on the Weber carburetor. Looks pretty good but what went in the hole of the intake manifold to the rear of the carburetor facing drivers side?
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post #67 of 74 Old 08-23-2020, 03:48 PM Thread Starter
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looks great!!
Thanks!
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post #68 of 74 Old 08-25-2020, 04:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Alabamacj71981 View Post
Well, kept piddling at it and put back on refurbished intake manifold. Put on the Weber carburetor. Looks pretty good but what went in the hole of the intake manifold to the rear of the carburetor facing drivers side?
That's where the manifold heater temperature switch went originally. It operated a relay that sent power to the heater that sits beneath the carb to help fuel vaporization during warmup. Check here for a description-

As for your new 38, I trust it is a bonafide 'Redline Weber' and not a clone. The clones can be problematic-

Nice work- that's a good looking rig!

Hoov
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post #69 of 74 Old 08-26-2020, 03:49 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alabamacj71981 View Post
Well, kept piddling at it and put back on refurbished intake manifold. Put on the Weber carburetor. Looks pretty good but what went in the hole of the intake manifold to the rear of the carburetor facing drivers side?
That's where the manifold heater temperature switch went originally. It operated a relay that sent power to the heater that sits beneath the carb to help fuel vaporization during warmup. Check here for a description-

As for your new 38, I trust it is a bonafide 'Redline Weber' and not a clone. The clones can be problematic-

Nice work- that's a good looking rig!

Hoov
Thanks! That was helpful. I found both those connections hanging around in the engine bay so I put them back. I bought a distributor pickup (switch in the distributor cap that is connected to the harness) at Autozone just in case that was an issue.

My understanding is I will now set the timing without and then with vacuum advance. Then I tune the carburetor. I’ll go to Harbor Freight for a timing light.
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post #70 of 74 Old 08-26-2020, 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Alabamacj71981 View Post
Thanks! That was helpful. I found both those connections hanging around in the engine bay so I put them back. I bought a distributor pickup (switch in the distributor cap that is connected to the harness) at Autozone just in case that was an issue.

My understanding is I will now set the timing without and then with vacuum advance. Then I tune the carburetor. Iíll go to Harbor Freight for a timing light.

You set the base timing without vacuum advance. Then if you have a dial back to zero timing light, you can see max advance and adjust that some if you have an adjustable vacuum advance canister and changing the advance stuff in the distributor (springs and advance plates). For what you are doing, setting the base timing with vacuum disconnected and plugged is all you will need to do.

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post #71 of 74 Old 08-27-2020, 06:47 PM
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You set the base timing without vacuum advance. For what you are doing, setting the base timing with vacuum disconnected and plugged is all you will need to do.
AND THEN: Adjust the carb to suit. It is likely that your idle speed may change if you re-adjust mixture a little, but the idle speed screw corrects for that, usually. Sometimes...the setting may require enough change that you'll need to stop and go back to re-setting the base idle again before you do a final tweak. Most people don't bother to do that though...depends. If you start with a base of 8* (which is close to dead stock), you might find that a 10* or even a 12* may run smoother and transition off-idle better...Don't be afraid to try, but always drive it after setting to make sure it works for you and doesn't ping or knock.
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post #72 of 74 Old 08-28-2020, 08:50 AM
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Also - since you're doing everything else what appears to be the "right way" and paying attention to detail.....you may want to consider going back to the factory air cleaner as opposed to the one that came with your Weber. It's looking great though.....nice work. Seeing yours makes me wish I had pulled and painted the manifold....
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post #73 of 74 Old 09-05-2020, 05:50 PM Thread Starter
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My Jeep is running great! I owe it to the Forum and my neighbor. Turns out he had an old Jeep back in ‘74.

This was a little crazy because I had new gas tank installed (no gas in the lines), new carburetor (not tuned), and new distributor (not clocked).

So I tried to install the distributor truck but think I monkeyed the whole thing up. In the end, I bought a new distributor From autozone for $85. We set the 1st cylinder to top dead center, installed the distributor, and then set timing with vacuum to 8 degrees at hot idle. At high RPM, it came out around 26-28. There was a lot of back and forth: setting the timing and then reducing the idle. Long story short, my idle settings were way high. We had to keep backing it down but setting the timing correctly.

It runs so smooth and low. I am so happy with it.
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post #74 of 74 Old 09-05-2020, 06:27 PM Thread Starter
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Also, moving from the 500 cfm to 300 cfm carb, there is more pickup and power.
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