Engine Problem - Page 4 - JeepForum.com
 13Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #46 of 74 Old 07-24-2020, 05:25 PM
Dryseals
Registered User
1980 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,480
I agree, the 38.

32/36 is a progressive carb and was designed for fuel economy on small motors. The 258 is nothing more than a glorified tractor motor, it will last forever and keep going but its never going to be a fuel economy lover. Give it what it wants. Tons of folks on here use it and they all seem to be very happy with it. Its what I am going with when I change out the old cast iron intake. I've heard nothing but good things about this guy

uptillnow likes this.
Dryseals is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #47 of 74 Old 07-25-2020, 08:51 AM Thread Starter
Alabamacj71981
Registered User
 
Alabamacj71981's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Posts: 138
So I read a bunch of threads and looks like people switch to the Weber 38 from the Weber 32/36 but also all you guys recommend it. Thanks for the coaching.

Follow up:
(1) I replaced some more vacuum hoses still problem persists
(2) replaced ignition coil still problem persists. It was really old and I was struggling to get a good resistance reading on one of the two readings. I hoped that was it.
(3) replaced rear main seal and oil pan gasket thereby allowing me to move away (when replacing engine oil) from the Shell Rotella back to normal engine oil - had made the switch right before this happened but still problem persists.
(4) replaced the the distributor cap and button still problem persists (had already replaced spark plugs and checked plug wires) still problem persists.
(5) new air filter

Looks like it has to be the carb. Outside of an electrical issue, can you imagine anything else I should check? Otherwise, looks like I have to pull the trigger on the 38 carburetor.
Attached Thumbnails
image_1595688814162.jpg   image_1595688960162.jpg   image_1595689019872.jpg  
Alabamacj71981 is offline  
post #48 of 74 Old 07-25-2020, 09:05 AM
John Strenk
Moderator
 
John Strenk's Avatar
1976 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Shalersville Ohio
Posts: 20,899
If you go with the Weber, that air cleaner housing on the Holley is better than what comes with the Weber.

an adapter like this will work since you don't have power brakes.



But if you are thinking about power brakes in the future. You might need to go with a stock air cleaner housing.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.



To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


I drive a Prius to save money and buy more Jeep Parts....
John Strenk is offline  
 
post #49 of 74 Old 07-27-2020, 02:08 PM
ccoyle71
Registered User
1986 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Franklin, TN
Posts: 177
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alabamacj71981 View Post
So I read a bunch of threads and looks like people switch to the Weber 38 from the Weber 32/36 but also all you guys recommend it. Thanks for the coaching.
looks like I have to pull the trigger on the 38 carburetor.

Call Tom at Redline if you're going to order a Weber 38. And - whatever you do - DON'T get the 32/26. That's what I tinkered with for 2 years before buying a 38, and my Jeep has never run better. I know you mention putting a new coil and distributor cap on already - but the combination of an an HEI distributor and the Weber 38 solved 99% of issues for me: Sputtering at various speeds, idle misses, smoke, fuel economy, etc, etc.....the list could go on and on. Best money I've spent on my CJ since I've owned it. Good luck, keep us posted
ccoyle71 is offline  
post #50 of 74 Old 07-27-2020, 08:31 PM Thread Starter
Alabamacj71981
Registered User
 
Alabamacj71981's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Posts: 138
Quote:
Originally Posted by ccoyle71 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alabamacj71981 View Post
So I read a bunch of threads and looks like people switch to the Weber 38 from the Weber 32/36 but also all you guys recommend it. Thanks for the coaching.
looks like I have to pull the trigger on the 38 carburetor.

Call Tom at Redline if you're going to order a Weber 38. And - whatever you do - DON'T get the 32/26. That's what I tinkered with for 2 years before buying a 38, and my Jeep has never run better. I know you mention putting a new coil and distributor cap on already - but the combination of an an HEI distributor and the Weber 38 solved 99% of issues for me: Sputtering at various speeds, idle misses, smoke, fuel economy, etc, etc.....the list could go on and on. Best money I've spent on my CJ since I've owned it. Good luck, keep us posted
Thanks. I’ll order from Redline. Looks like a good price. I’ll also get that air filter adapter mentioned above. I like the look of the 9 inch old school design. Thanks guys.
Alabamacj71981 is offline  
post #51 of 74 Old 08-02-2020, 08:29 PM Thread Starter
Alabamacj71981
Registered User
 
Alabamacj71981's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Posts: 138
Bought my Weber 38 and air filter adapter!
Dryseals likes this.
Alabamacj71981 is offline  
post #52 of 74 Old 08-03-2020, 10:43 AM
ccoyle71
Registered User
1986 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Franklin, TN
Posts: 177
Make sure and check the baseline settings for the speed screw and verify the enriching holes aren't exposed. Do this on the bench, BEFORE bolting it on so you know exactly where you are starting out. Good luck - and make sure and report back!
ccoyle71 is offline  
post #53 of 74 Old 08-07-2020, 07:16 PM Thread Starter
Alabamacj71981
Registered User
 
Alabamacj71981's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Posts: 138
So just got my Carburetor and already hit a snag. Dope. I followed the instructions up to the point where I hit four stripped screws from PO. See pics of above and below pic. Lovely surprise.

I think I should use flame and PB Blaster but since I don’t want to use fire around gasoline sources... I should remove the intake manifold.
Attached Thumbnails
9014ACC1-55E3-477D-BED8-517AF6E85AA0_1596849195807.jpg   1014F41A-D0ED-4B27-A7A5-6C05FA94E045_1596849347688.jpg  
Alabamacj71981 is offline  
post #54 of 74 Old 08-08-2020, 02:10 PM
oldschool74cj5
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 587
hello


when you say striped screws are you talking about the hex inside the screw is stripped out. if so you might try using a multispline easy out by hanson.



oldschool
oldschool74cj5 is offline  
post #55 of 74 Old 08-08-2020, 04:39 PM Thread Starter
Alabamacj71981
Registered User
 
Alabamacj71981's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Posts: 138
Well, a neighbor saw me working and then let Darsey know. Darsey is only the coolest guy on the block. He is about 70 years old and restores 1940’s Harleys. You’ll see him ride around the neighborhood on his restorations. He’s a super laid back cool cat.

He came over and basically gave me a clinic on how to remove seized bolts. In the end the bolts are removed. He opened up my old Holley arb and showed me gunk in the bowl. He recommends that I clean or replace my original gas tank next, before the new carb install.

I just replaced my dash and so have to wait until next month to abide by the family rules on my Jeep spending.😬

Im going to use this time to clean and paint my intake and exhaust manifolds.
Attached Thumbnails
image_1596926179444.jpg   image_1596926208461.jpg   image_1596926330493.jpg  
Alabamacj71981 is offline  
post #56 of 74 Old 08-08-2020, 07:46 PM
oldschool74cj5
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 587
hello


since you have the intake off. i would reseal the intake. if you buy the felpro intake exhaust gasket set it comes with the o-ring and gasket for the electric heater. i also retorqued my intake and exhaust manifold after i drove it a few times.



oldschool
oldschool74cj5 is offline  
post #57 of 74 Old 08-09-2020, 12:45 PM Thread Starter
Alabamacj71981
Registered User
 
Alabamacj71981's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Posts: 138
Quote:
Originally Posted by oldschool74cj5 View Post
hello


since you have the intake off. i would reseal the intake. if you buy the felpro intake exhaust gasket set it comes with the o-ring and gasket for the electric heater. i also retorqued my intake and exhaust manifold after i drove it a few times.

oldschool
Sounds good. I saw a guy on YouTube soak his exhaust manifold in a vinegar and salt bath. They came out beautifully. Probably will try that.
Alabamacj71981 is offline  
post #58 of 74 Old 08-09-2020, 07:16 PM
gutthans
Senior Member
 
gutthans's Avatar
1995 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Deland
Posts: 956
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alabamacj71981 View Post
Sounds good. I saw a guy on YouTube soak his exhaust manifold in a vinegar and salt bath. They came out beautifully. Probably will try that.
The 'acid dip' will leave a nice finish...but it will oxidize rapidly unless you coat it with something. There are several 'clear' engine coatings that can be rattle-canned and will hold up well.
gutthans is offline  
post #59 of 74 Old 08-10-2020, 03:36 PM Thread Starter
Alabamacj71981
Registered User
 
Alabamacj71981's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Posts: 138
Quote:
Originally Posted by oldschool74cj5 View Post
hello


since you have the intake off. i would reseal the intake. if you buy the felpro intake exhaust gasket set it comes with the o-ring and gasket for the electric heater. i also retorqued my intake and exhaust manifold after i drove it a few times.



oldschool
Thanks for the heads up. I’ll look for it. I did a Felpro on the oil pan and it was a super nice gasket with the easy install screws.
Alabamacj71981 is offline  
post #60 of 74 Old 08-10-2020, 04:34 PM
uptillnow
Web Wheeler
 
uptillnow's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Fountain Valley
Posts: 1,285
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alabamacj71981 View Post
Well, a neighbor saw me working and then let Darsey know. Darsey is only the coolest guy on the block. He is about 70 years old and restores 1940’s Harleys. You’ll see him ride around the neighborhood on his restorations. He’s a super laid back cool cat.

He came over and basically gave me a clinic on how to remove seized bolts. In the end the bolts are removed. He opened up my old Holley arb and showed me gunk in the bowl. He recommends that I clean or replace my original gas tank next, before the new carb install.

I just replaced my dash and so have to wait until next month to abide by the family rules on my Jeep spending.😬

I'm going to use this time to clean and paint my intake and exhaust manifolds.
I was looking at your first picture and those threads look ok, must be "photo-Shopped"

The second picture looks like you struck "gold", but probably a tank full of rust. New/Clean the tank, replace some rubber hose, new filters, good to go.

The third picture looks like a lot of work on the dash, looking good!

Where did you buy your Weber 38-DGES?

UTN
uptillnow is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the JeepForum.com forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid e-mail address for yourself.



Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome