Engine Problem - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 74 Old 07-18-2020, 03:38 PM Thread Starter
Alabamacj71981
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Engine Problem

I need help. In short when I try to do 2nd gear at a fast speed or higher (e.g., 3rd gear less throttle) my engine wants to sputter and quit (though it never fully dies). What is happening to my wonderful CJ?

I’ve really only made two changes in last week:
(1) started using Shell Rotella diesel oil
(2) changed my valve cover gasket

I thought I might have knocked a spark plug wire loose so I checked that and went ahead and replaced my spark plugs. Still no bueno.

Can anyone help? I’m learning as I go and have rebuilt tranny and TC but the engine... I’m still learning.

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post #2 of 74 Old 07-18-2020, 04:03 PM
HoDad
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Make sure the nuts for the wires on your coil are tight. I had a similar problem and that was it.
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post #3 of 74 Old 07-18-2020, 05:27 PM
hp_lovecraft
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When you replaced the valve cover gasket, is the return gas line still oriented ABOVE the standard gas line on the 3way filter? Otherwise you will starve your carb at higher speeds if its level or below the fuel line. This is a really common issue. or maybe you knocked a vac line off? The distro line goes over the valve cover. or placed back in the wrong spot? That would cause that.

Or maybe a fuel line got pinched? that is not likely, but it did happen to me once. or maybe while the fuel line was off, debri or contaminates got into the line, and clogged either the float, or one of the jets. that has happened to me.

Beyond that, it may be unrelated to the valve cover. Maybe your distro is not tight, and has been slowely walking out of time. Thats happened to me too.

I don't know your engine or carb, but those are the common symtoms. CHeck the 3way filter, and vac lines. Then you can check your distro and carb.
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post #4 of 74 Old 07-18-2020, 05:29 PM Thread Starter
Alabamacj71981
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HoDad View Post
Make sure the nuts for the wires on your coil are tight. I had a similar problem and that was it.
Things seem good there. Thanks.
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post #5 of 74 Old 07-18-2020, 05:38 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hp_lovecraft View Post
When you replaced the valve cover gasket, is the return gas line still oriented ABOVE the standard gas line on the 3way filter? Otherwise you will starve your carb at higher speeds if its level or below the fuel line. This is a really common issue. or maybe you knocked a vac line off? The distro line goes over the valve cover. or placed back in the wrong spot? That would cause that.

Or maybe a fuel line got pinched? that is not likely, but it did happen to me once. or maybe while the fuel line was off, debri or contaminates got into the line, and clogged either the float, or one of the jets. that has happened to me.

Beyond that, it may be unrelated to the valve cover. Maybe your distro is not tight, and has been slowely walking out of time. Thats happened to me too.

I don't know your engine or carb, but those are the common symtoms. CHeck the 3way filter, and vac lines. Then you can check your distro and carb.
(1) Distributor cap is tight.
(2) vacuum hose from distributor is good
(3) gas filter looks like a crazy mess (see pic)

Still picking over your note.
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post #6 of 74 Old 07-18-2020, 07:14 PM
oldschool74cj5
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hello

your pic shows at least what part of the problem could be. you dont have a return line hooked up to the fuel filter. the reason they had a return line was to avoid fuel vapor locking. that is where the fuel gets hot and turns to vapor. with a vapor return the air and what ever fuel the carb doesnt need it goes back to the tank. the way you have it the air has to go into the carb and any bend can cause the fuel flow to stop to the carb. you should have a i believe 3/16 steel line coming from the driver side of the frame that a hose goes from the the return on the fuel filter. if you follow the steel line down the frame it will go to the sending unit on the tank along with a larger feed line.

on your coil does it have a horseshoe looking connector on top of it. that was the ford factory type of connection amc used. i would check and see if the terminals in the horseshoe slide firmly on the coil.

i would try those first.
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post #7 of 74 Old 07-18-2020, 08:49 PM Thread Starter
Alabamacj71981
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldschool74cj5 View Post
hello

your pic shows at least what part of the problem could be. you dont have a return line hooked up to the fuel filter. the reason they had a return line was to avoid fuel vapor locking. that is where the fuel gets hot and turns to vapor. with a vapor return the air and what ever fuel the carb doesnt need it goes back to the tank. the way you have it the air has to go into the carb and any bend can cause the fuel flow to stop to the carb. you should have a i believe 3/16 steel line coming from the driver side of the frame that a hose goes from the the return on the fuel filter. if you follow the steel line down the frame it will go to the sending unit on the tank along with a larger feed line.

on your coil does it have a horseshoe looking connector on top of it. that was the ford factory type of connection amc used. i would check and see if the terminals in the horseshoe slide firmly on the coil.

i would try those first.
Thanks for your help. I’ll reroute the fuel line bit and confirm the coil bit.
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post #8 of 74 Old 07-18-2020, 09:22 PM
Matt80cj
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If I'm looking at your pic of the fuel filter right it appears that the hose that is supposed to go to the carb (lower one) is plugged off with a bolt. The top one is supposed to be the return like mentioned earlier.


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post #9 of 74 Old 07-18-2020, 09:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt80cj View Post
If I'm looking at your pic of the fuel filter right it appears that the hose that is supposed to go to the carb (lower one) is plugged off with a bolt. The top one is supposed to be the return like mentioned earlier.


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Looks the same to me also.

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post #10 of 74 Old 07-18-2020, 10:18 PM
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The centered nipple of the 2 is the carb feed, offset nipple is the return.



Looks like the return is blocked off to me, and it is on the bottom.
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post #11 of 74 Old 07-19-2020, 08:05 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all the help.

(1) I fixed the return on the fuel filter. Spun the thing right side up and attached the line. See pic.

(2) coil wires are tight, see 2nd pic.

Still having the issue. Should I rebuild my carb next? I see a leak of some sort (see third pic).

Thanks guys. Learning the engine as we go. Having fun with this at the moment. I love learning my Jeep. 🤓
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post #12 of 74 Old 07-19-2020, 02:56 PM
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If it were mine I'd pull the spark plugs and check their color, I have a sneaking suspicion of the Holley carburetor, ie too much carb for the motor.
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post #13 of 74 Old 07-19-2020, 05:46 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by turbogus View Post
If it were mine I'd pull the spark plugs and check their color, I have a sneaking suspicion of the Holley carburetor, ie too much carb for the motor.
I pulled all the plugs. They were covered in soot. I replaced all. Problem persists. Looks like there were other threads with Holley carb issues.
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post #14 of 74 Old 07-19-2020, 06:14 PM
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I had assumed that it was running lean from either vac leak, or fuel starvation.

But the soot would imply it is running rich? When I last had a holly carb (2bbl #4412), it was always having issues with the power valve blowing, leading to fuel issues. Those are easy and cheap to replace. The power valve issue bother me so much, I stopped using holly carbs, though that was before they started added back-checks.

Is the vent tube unobstructed? You could try running with the air cleaner off to see if that was blocking the vent, causing a vapor lock.
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post #15 of 74 Old 07-19-2020, 08:18 PM
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hello

holley's are a good carb. it looks like you have the 2 barrel but do you know which cfm that you have? the 350 is about the size of a ford 2150 and a weber 38. the 500 cfm is a big for a stock 258. you will need to rebuild it if leaking. if leaking from the block and carb body it can cause running issues.

a holley is very tune-able. after rebuilding there some things that have to get done.
1st you have to set the float height while it is running. you remove the on the side of the bowl. then you loosen the lock nut and adjust the large screw on the top center of the bowl till fuel is just at the bottom of the threads where the plug was.
2nd then you want to set your idle mixture with the two screws one on each side of the meter block about 1/8 turn at a time till you get the best vacuum. remember to rev the engine and clear after each adjustment.
3rd take the vacuum number that you got while setting the idle and divide by 2. that is about the size of the power valve that you want to start with.
4th drive it and pull in the driveway and shut down right away. dont let idle for a while. when cooled down pull and check the plugs. then you will have to adjust the main jets accordingly. if soot then have to go smaller jets. once you get that then back to step 2 and reset your idle mixture.

oh fun times with a carb.

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