EGR Valve hookup - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 15 Old 09-05-2019, 02:22 PM Thread Starter
CJPondScum
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EGR Valve hookup

Hello all!
I recently installed a new radiator, fan shroud, clutch and fan... Still running between 200 and 220 around town. I worry that I will get even hotter rock crawling. My EGR valve is capped off as you can see in the photo. I think I'm going to swap in a new one and hook it back up. I read that having it not hooked up could cause some heat issues.

Any idea where I route the EGR valve too without having all of the other emission systems in?

AMC 360 motor

Thanks Kevin

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post #2 of 15 Old 09-05-2019, 03:18 PM
John Strenk
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Well it should go to a CTO and then the ported vacuum port on the carb so it doesn't open up when the engine is cold.

You need the ported vacuum so it's closed at idle otherwise it will mess with the idle. that way it also closes at full throttle so it doesn't rob any power.

But I wonder if it will help the over heating you are seeing. It might be you could be doing a lot of idling rock crawling
An EGR will keep the cylinder temps down but those temps are relatively high (still hot) and might help if you are experiencing knock or ping but otherwise might not help much.

You might of been better off with an electric fan that can still pull air through quickly the radiator at slow speeds.

ave you checked your thermostat? Accuracy of your gauge?


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post #3 of 15 Old 09-05-2019, 11:11 PM
jeepdaddy2000
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Quote:
I recently installed a new radiator, fan shroud, clutch and fan... Still running between 200 and 220 around town. I worry that I will get even hotter rock crawling. My EGR valve is capped off as you can see in the photo. I think I'm going to swap in a new one and hook it back up. I read that having it not hooked up could cause some heat issues.
The temp rise found by disconnecting the EGR is negligible. Your issue is elsewhere.


Have you verified your temp using an IR gun?



Did you replace the thermostat? Is it opening all the way?

A radiator cap that won't hold pressure will cause overheating.
Same with a collapsed lower radiator hose.
Anything blocking the radiator (winch, lights, bug screens, etc.)?

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post #4 of 15 Old 09-06-2019, 09:04 AM Thread Starter
CJPondScum
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I replaced the thermostat and its opening. Verified temp with an IR gun and it seems to mostly stay at 210 but will creep to 220 in traffic. I will check the hoses again but they don't appear to be collapsing. Maybe I need to do a full coolant flush and just replace the hoses. Nothing blocking the radiator.

I don't have a hole drilled in the Thermostat. I have read a lot of people do that.

I hate cooling system issues lol. Seems to be soooo many things it can be. Is my clutch and fan working properly, is the waterpump bad... ugh.

Kevin
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post #5 of 15 Old 09-06-2019, 10:32 AM
John Strenk
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If you have an IR gun you can probably measure the input and output temperature of the radiator.

I would have to contemplate the effect of low water flow vs. low air flow to give an answer.

What temp thermostat do you have in there?

Any bubbles in the tank when running


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post #6 of 15 Old 09-09-2019, 09:28 AM Thread Starter
CJPondScum
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I have a 180 thermostat in there. No bubbles. I did a full system flush last night. The radiator and block weren't terrible and flushed green coolant.... but the pic attached is what came out of the heater core. Hoping this helps keep me between 190 and 200.

Kevin
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post #7 of 15 Old 09-11-2019, 12:32 AM
BagusJeep
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The hole in the thermostat helped on my L head but that is peculiar to that engine.

If your water temperature is always at least 30 degrees above the thermostat range, it is not good.

Have you checked the water pump?

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post #8 of 15 Old 09-11-2019, 09:21 AM Thread Starter
CJPondScum
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Haven't touched the water pump yet, will have to figure that out.

Any idea what the different temps are on this gauge? I thought I had it figured out but maybe not. I definitely need an upgrade here.
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post #9 of 15 Old 09-11-2019, 10:08 AM
John Strenk
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Celcius and Farenheit

That's why the C and F are different colors at the bottom of the gauge so you know which scale is which.


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post #10 of 15 Old 09-11-2019, 10:44 AM Thread Starter
CJPondScum
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So would you say the temp in the pic is about 210 F?

Kevin
1983 CJ7 - PondScum
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post #11 of 15 Old 09-11-2019, 11:02 AM
John Strenk
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Some where around there. Probably closer to 200 F

it's less than 100 C which is 212 F.

That scale is not linear so it's hard to say exactly.


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post #12 of 15 Old 09-11-2019, 12:34 PM
mc190
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your well under 200deg f. your well in a "safe" temp. But changing out the water pump fresh coolant and a new thermostat and hoses will not hurt, especially if you have no idea how old the old stuff is. Probably do that under $100.
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post #13 of 15 Old 09-11-2019, 10:53 PM
jeepdaddy2000
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Do your self a favor and ditch the cheap gauge and replace it with a quality gauge, such as a Stuart Warner.

The duty of a patriot is to protect his country from it's government
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post #14 of 15 Old 09-12-2019, 12:19 AM
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If that is what you are running at then,given the vagaries of the gauges, you may be running at thermostat temperature most of the time.
Good clean out and fresh coolant may fix you up.

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1981 CJ7 258ci - Bagusjeep
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1981 J20 258ci - Gladys
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post #15 of 15 Old 09-12-2019, 09:20 AM Thread Starter
CJPondScum
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Thanks all! Ordering a new gauge now!

Kevin
1983 CJ7 - PondScum
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