Early CJ doors Striker plate - Page 3 - JeepForum.com
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post #31 of 84 Old 08-27-2019, 07:34 AM
Jim1611
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Originally Posted by trailhead2004 View Post
Why aren't you using channel like the original parts? I'm looking at that thin edge and thinking it's going to wear on the flat part of the striker. Plus that part design doesn't look original.
I don't think AMC used channel from what I can tell in the pictures that have been posted. The thin edge? You mean where the striker will rest when the door is closed? If that's what you're talking about I left that the way it is just so I can easily establish the back edge. It will have a lip when I'm done. This part is just a way for me to get where I'm going.

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post #32 of 84 Old 08-27-2019, 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Jim1611 View Post
I don't think AMC used channel from what I can tell in the pictures that have been posted. The thin edge? You mean where the striker will rest when the door is closed? If that's what you're talking about I left that the way it is just so I can easily establish the back edge. It will have a lip when I'm done. This part is just a way for me to get where I'm going.
It was definitely made from a piece of channel or an angle that was then stamped to form the angled part your pictures show you machining. I think it was a channel and most of the outside leg was machined off because of the angled part of the body, and the other leg was left intact. See pic below.

Name:  Door latch.jpg
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And yes, I was talking about the thin edge. Are you going to weld a piece on there?

Sorry, not meant as criticism, just questions. And at least you're doing something when everyone else is sitting on our thumbs! One of these days I'll have a mill and a lathe in the shop and I'll be able to have fun like you're having.
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post #33 of 84 Old 08-27-2019, 09:52 AM
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The reason I think it was made from something other than channel is that the edge where the striker hits first look like it tapers and then where the 90 degree bend is it looks thicker. This could be the camera angle too. I sure wish I had one to measure.

No there won't be any welding. The thin edge will get machined off until I get the correct fit for the door to close properly then the actual part will be cut with that piece on it. For now it's just easier to make that part of it long that way I have material to remove as needed. If I had put that extra material around the edge it might be in the way now.

Were these to be mass produced I'd have them stamped from a die I made but that just adds to the cost so my parts will be machined from bar stock. I think I can come up with something that will be very close to the AMC part. It will be right and a good part or I just won't ever sell it, we've got enough junk floating around now.

Also no apologies needed. I knew why you were asking. I'm glad you did.
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post #34 of 84 Old 08-27-2019, 12:27 PM
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Quote:
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The reason I think it was made from something other than channel is that the edge where the striker hits first look like it tapers and then where the 90 degree bend is it looks thicker. This could be the camera angle too. I sure wish I had one to measure.
Jim, I think these were cast parts and then the holes were machined in. If I look at both sets of mine, they seem to be rough on the back side where it touches the body. I could be wrong though. I would't think they would be cast but could of been a quick way to make these back then. I will try to snag some measurements off of them tonight if I remember.

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post #35 of 84 Old 08-27-2019, 01:49 PM
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Jim, I think these were cast parts and then the holes were machined in. If I look at both sets of mine, they seem to be rough on the back side where it touches the body. I could be wrong though. I would't think they would be cast but could of been a quick way to make these back then. I will try to snag some measurements off of them tonight if I remember.
I think you're correct on the casting idea. During that time frame investment casting was starting to be used more and it is one of the less expensive ways to cast a part. Those dimensions would be much appreciated! Thanks.


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post #36 of 84 Old 08-27-2019, 09:40 PM
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I'm just ecstatic that someone is making some. These things are ridiculously hard to find, and if you do, they cost an arm and a leg. The worst part, there is no way to run the rotary doors without these. They will beat and bang and make all kinds of noise because they have nothing in place to hold them tight.
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post #37 of 84 Old 08-27-2019, 09:50 PM
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I'm just ecstatic that someone is making some. These things are ridiculously hard to find, and if you do, they cost an arm and a leg. The worst part, there is no way to run the rotary doors without these. They will beat and bang and make all kinds of noise because they have nothing in place to hold them tight.
Another thing that plays into these as well is the cost of the older doors verses the later that use the post for a latch. The later doors have gotten extremely expensive while the early doors are somewhat cheaper so there may be more owners using the doors that need these striker plates. I didn't do anything on them this evening but plan to to work on them through the week.


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post #38 of 84 Old 08-27-2019, 10:09 PM
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Sounds good. You are correct on the door prices. I was almost to the point of swapping mine, but couldn't find anyone to swap doors with me that didn't want a bunch of boot for mine, or everyone had already upgraded to the new style.
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post #39 of 84 Old 08-28-2019, 08:03 AM
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So looking at both sets of my striker plates, they were definitely cast parts. I can see a casting number and it has several drafts so it could be released from a mold. @Jim1611 , do you just want basic dimensions? or something more advanced?

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These things are ridiculously hard to find, and if you do, they cost an arm and a leg.
That's for sure! I went to a junk yard and found a set looking for other parts for my restoration. I walked off with those striker plates because I knew if I didn't take them, they would be lost forever. And I already had a set of strikers...
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post #40 of 84 Old 08-28-2019, 09:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Deer-Slayer_5 View Post
So looking at both sets of my striker plates, they were definitely cast parts. I can see a casting number and it has several drafts so it could be released from a mold. @Jim1611 , do you just want basic dimensions? or something more advanced?



That's for sure! I went to a junk yard and found a set looking for other parts for my restoration. I walked off with those striker plates because I knew if I didn't take them, they would be lost forever. And I already had a set of strikers...
I'll take whatever you can provide. If you have some calipers some detailed dimensions would be great.
Thanks!


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post #41 of 84 Old 08-28-2019, 10:31 AM
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@Jim1611 , I might be making you a lot of money giving you this but I think my talents drawing it up gives me joy knowing I can recreate stock parts lol These were the average dimensions across the features of my plate.

NOTE: I have access to a EDM (electrical discharge machining) machine. IF someone wants something with precision, PM me and I can find out a lead time and price.

Not trying to undercut you Jim, I just have the CAD model to import into a machine
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post #42 of 84 Old 08-28-2019, 12:20 PM
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That's a nice drawing and makes the job much easier! I see no reason these cannot be made to nearly an exact duplicate. I wonder how many would be a good start to make?
Thanks!


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post #43 of 84 Old 08-28-2019, 01:37 PM
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Probably make the backing plate also as if you lost one, then you lost the other.


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post #44 of 84 Old 08-28-2019, 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Jim1611 View Post
That's a nice drawing and makes the job much easier! I see no reason these cannot be made to nearly an exact duplicate. I wonder how many would be a good start to make?
Thanks!
Thanks! I tried my best to get almost exact measurements. The radii are hard to interpolate with such a small part. As far as quantity, I have no idea... The machine I have access to can be slower and more of a set up pain. Now a good machine shop could have a jig and program to crank some out. @John Strenk , the backing plate is just a 3/16" stock with two holes drilled for a 10-24 screw. if they are made they should be sent with torx screws and the plate just so it's complete

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post #45 of 84 Old 08-28-2019, 01:55 PM
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Thanks! I tried my best to get almost exact measurements. The radii are hard to interpolate with such a small part. As far as quantity, I have no idea... The machine I have access to can be slower and more of a set up pain. Now a good machine shop could have a jig and program to crank some out. @John Strenk , the backing plate is just a 3/16" stock with two holes drilled for a 10-24 screw. if they are made they should be sent with torx screws and the plate just so it's complete
You're welcome. I already know how I'll make the part and I think you folks will be pleased with it. I enjoy this stuff!


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