Dual Diaphragm - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 11 Old 10-11-2010, 07:41 PM Thread Starter
mjeckell
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Dual Diaphragm

Are there any dual diaphragms brake boosters for a direct swap for my single in my 1979 cj7. My MC is still good and I would like to drop a dual in instead of going hydroboost right now. Any help out there would be great. Thanks.

Matt

PS I have searched for a while now on the forum but nothing seems to be what I am wanting to do. It appears a lot of people are upgrading from manual to power and I am wanting a dual instead of a single.

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post #2 of 11 Old 10-11-2010, 08:44 PM
jatepper
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1995 YJ booster is dual diaphram. You just have to bend the brake lines over to the passenger side of the MC. You will also need to lenghten the push rod. I don't think there are any "direct swaps" for the MC without some minimal alteration.

Too many Jeeps to count....
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post #3 of 11 Old 10-12-2010, 01:25 PM
Dborns
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Matt, just how much of a "direct swap" do you want? Useable YJ parts in my area are hard to come by so I went the blazer s-10 route. I got a dual diaphragm booster and master cylinder from a '90 blazer s-10 at a local yard for $50. It looks like it goes right into place on a CJ, but I found the holes in my YJ are not going to match up. I'll have to drill a few new holes when I do the tub swap. I keep seeing mention of the pushrod needing to be lenghtened, but I'm not sure what that means. I haven't looked at it to see if its adjustable, or what you have to do to do that. If you can't find YJ parts, do a search on "blazer brake booster".
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post #4 of 11 Old 10-12-2010, 01:34 PM
ElZorro
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dborns View Post
Matt, just how much of a "direct swap" do you want? Useable YJ parts in my area are hard to come by so I went the blazer s-10 route. I got a dual diaphragm booster and master cylinder from a '90 blazer s-10 at a local yard for $50. It looks like it goes right into place on a CJ, but I found the holes in my YJ are not going to match up. I'll have to drill a few new holes when I do the tub swap. I keep seeing mention of the pushrod needing to be lenghtened, but I'm not sure what that means. I haven't looked at it to see if its adjustable, or what you have to do to do that. If you can't find YJ parts, do a search on "blazer brake booster".
The pushrod that might need to be lengthened is between the booster and your brake pedal. Some write ups I have seen people say they had to do it, others left their pushrod stock and it worked for them. The push rod on a CJ vs a YJ attach at a different point on the pedal. This link(with pics) probably does a better job of explaining it than I am.

https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/me...e-swap-377653/
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post #5 of 11 Old 10-14-2010, 12:53 PM Thread Starter
mjeckell
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Ok i bought the s10 dual brake booster and I need some clarification. Do I mount the s10 dual brake booster to the firewall or do I use the bracket from my single power booster and mount it to that? It appears that I may be able to mount the s10 booster flush to the firewall and completely get rid of the bracket on the old set up. Is this correct. Any pictures would be great with those that have made this upgrade.

Matt
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post #6 of 11 Old 10-14-2010, 01:28 PM
foggybottombob
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Here is mine on an 84 CJ7. I put the booster on the original bracket. I had to ream out the bracket holes with a dremel milling bit since the S10 booster bolts were for a slightly wider hole pattern. I have posted this pic so many times that I assume some people are sick of seeing it but here it is one more time.
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post #7 of 11 Old 10-14-2010, 05:00 PM
Dborns
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Ok, so mj disregard my comment on the bolt holes not matching on my YJ tub. I didn't think about it until you brought up the question about the bracket. I'm assuming I attach the booster to my CJs' bracket and the bracket matches up to the holes on the firewall. Thanks!
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post #8 of 11 Old 10-20-2010, 10:55 PM Thread Starter
mjeckell
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All done!!!!!!!

So I finally finished the install. The booster and MC was out of a 92 chevy s10 pickup. It went fairly well. I first had to take measurements of the the valve rod that attached to the cj brackets. The rod measured 3.75 inches out of the booster from the base of the four bolts to the end of the rod. I then cut off the rod from the old booster to use on the new dual booster. Then I measured 3.75 inches out on the new booster and cut accordingly to attach and weld the piece from the old booster. The reason I used the old piece was the size of the attachment was to big. To weld the piece on the new rod I took some precautions from the heat and splatter. I wrapped the cone with aluminum foil and stuffed the hole with foil as well to dissapate some of the heat. I also had a squirt bottle on standby with water do spray between welds to cool quickly. No problems whatsoever. I also had to ream the holes with a file. The cj bracket holes were a little wider by 1/8 to 1/4 inch. Very easy to do. The last thing that I needed to do was add some washers to keep the booster a little farther to the front. I found that the swingarm that the valve rod attaches to was hitting the firewall preventing the booster from fully retracting thus activating the brakes. A couple of washers solved that problem. All in all, $45 dollars and now some awesome brakes. Night and day. This is one of the best upgrades so far. I have tried a friend of mines hydroboost upgrade and honestly I feel that my brakes are just as good. Very smooth and tremendous amount of power. I would recommend this to anyone wanting to do a upgrade.

- Matt
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post #9 of 11 Old 10-21-2010, 07:07 AM
foggybottombob
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Be sure to move your throttle linkage through its full travel by hand to be sure it does not hit the booster body. I had to bend my linkage a little to make it clear. You could wind up with a stuck throttle if you have that problem and don't check for it.
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post #10 of 11 Old 11-13-2011, 08:11 AM
INKUBUS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mjeckell View Post
So I finally finished the install. The booster and MC was out of a 92 chevy s10 pickup. It went fairly well. I first had to take measurements of the the valve rod that attached to the cj brackets. The rod measured 3.75 inches out of the booster from the base of the four bolts to the end of the rod. I then cut off the rod from the old booster to use on the new dual booster. Then I measured 3.75 inches out on the new booster and cut accordingly to attach and weld the piece from the old booster. The reason I used the old piece was the size of the attachment was to big. To weld the piece on the new rod I took some precautions from the heat and splatter. I wrapped the cone with aluminum foil and stuffed the hole with foil as well to dissapate some of the heat. I also had a squirt bottle on standby with water do spray between welds to cool quickly. No problems whatsoever. I also had to ream the holes with a file. The cj bracket holes were a little wider by 1/8 to 1/4 inch. Very easy to do. The last thing that I needed to do was add some washers to keep the booster a little farther to the front. I found that the swingarm that the valve rod attaches to was hitting the firewall preventing the booster from fully retracting thus activating the brakes. A couple of washers solved that problem. All in all, $45 dollars and now some awesome brakes. Night and day. This is one of the best upgrades so far. I have tried a friend of mines hydroboost upgrade and honestly I feel that my brakes are just as good. Very smooth and tremendous amount of power. I would recommend this to anyone wanting to do a upgrade.

- Matt


any pic?? regards
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post #11 of 11 Old 11-14-2011, 10:53 AM Thread Starter
mjeckell
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Location: Paso Robles
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I may have some pics somewhere I would have to look
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